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nelmo

Throttle Cable Routing

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My throttle cable snapped at the weekend and I'm trying to engineer a simple replacement method of fixing it without having to replace the whole cable.

 

It snapped at the pedal end because i had the basic GBS throttle cable kit which, with hindsight, is crap as the cable loops round and rubs on a straight edge, which is why it's worn through in 4k miles.

 

I'm thinking of using this instead:

 

http://www.tecni-cable.co.uk/RH-TECNI-Standard-Balustrading-Angled-Runs-into-Metal.-3-4mm-Cable-160.140.102

 

...but its too big and won't fit inside the pedal box, so I'll have to remove the existing threaded tube connection through the wall of the pedal box and enlarge the hole so that this big cable thingy fits through.

 

If you're still following, my question is will it be ok to have the throttle cable running from the pedal to the throttle body via just a a couple of cable ties holding it to the side rail? Is that current threaded tube through the pedal box essential?

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Picture of the pedal end & snapped cable would be good Neil, the link you posted seems to be over engineering the problem.

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Good point - had to break out the laptop to do that, though :closedeyes:

 

So, in pic below, the green square is where it snapped (this is an old pic - the cable looped round and was tied back on to itself and that screw was replaced :crazy: ) and the red square is the connection through the pedal box I'm considering removing:

 

pedal.jpg

Edited by nelmo

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Get rig of the U shaped clevis that fixes to the end of the pedal and make yourself a new one out of a strip of steel. Make the U deeper so you've got 30mm between the pedal and where the cable passes through the clevis.

 

Use the metal part out of a 6 amp electrical block connector to retain the cable and put one either side of the clevis so the cable can't move backwards and forwards through the hole and cause the cable to fray.

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Agreed, nothing wrong with the red part. Looping the cable round on itself and presumably leaving the cable interfacing directly on the clevis (ie. rubbing in the loop) sounds like the cause of the problem to me.

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All above good --- would add that shortening the amount of spare thread through the bulkhead would reduce the angle that the inner cable "attacks" the fixed outer & ensure this part is at mid point of throttle pedal arc. (Inner cable is moving up & down as well as in & out --- )

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A more elegant solution to avoid fatigue failure and significant flexing is to make a simple quadrant based on a grooved circle of the same radius as the height of the adjuster above the pivot of the axle round which the cable runs and is fixed.

Basically just what Ford did with the sierra pedal, minus the adjuster.

post-21-0-04792900-1540551008_thumb.jpg

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The threaded part through the pedal box is actually an adjuster to fine tune and take up slack. Handy to have especially after you have fitted a new cable as it will stretch with use. Id just look at fixing it to the pedal better to prevent fraying.

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Keep the adjuster, but wind it all the way back into the firewall and adjust the inner cable at the pedal end.

Nigel's quadrant idea is the best but may be difficult to fabricate.

Work on decreasing the angle so the cable goes directly into the adjuster tube.

Assuming thats where it broke, grease it well & try to fit a rubber concertina tube over it to keep grease in & dirt out.

IIRC a lot of bike brake adjusters have them fitted.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-Compe-V-Brake-Long-Rubber-Boot-Cable-Cover-Gaiter-2-Pack/191998244199?hash=item2cb3fcb567:g:HDUAAOSwPCVYBBCK:rk:10:pf:0

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-Rubber-Gaiter-Universal-Sleeve/dp/B0187PDY16

Edited by Bob Tucker

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Nigel's quadrant is most easily made by bread & butter construction of 3 very large washers --- middle one 10 mm smaller diameter than the outers,all bolted together & to the pedal.

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All good points BUT they all assume i'm getting a new cable, which i don't want to do - a faff to fit and I've already got one of those fittings i linked too in my first post, so no cost involved (£30 for a new cable).

 

Can you see a problem with removing that connecter in the red box of my pic, so the cable has a direct run through the pedal box?

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My solution uses the existing cable.

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Bicycle brake cables --- less than £5 a pair.

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Brake cables from WILKO or Halfords as Bob says.

I get nothing from your link Neil, so I cant comment on it.

The threaded connector you want to remove has a recess that the outer cable

fits into...it keeps the outer cable in a straight line. if you remove it there is nothing to

keep the ouuter at right angles to the firewall.

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My solution uses the existing cable.

 

 

Actually, that's what I did to get me home - problem is, there wasn't really enough cable and I had to drive home with the throttle at twice it's normal height, which made braking tricky :-)

 

Brake cables from WILKO or Halfords as Bob says.

I get nothing from your link Neil, so I cant comment on it.

The threaded connector you want to remove has a recess that the outer cable

fits into...it keeps the outer cable in a straight line. if you remove it there is nothing to

keep the ouuter at right angles to the firewall.

I can't just use any old cable because there's a special bit of plastic on one end that attaches to the throttle body. As far as I know, only GBS sell the cable like that, hence the £30.

 

Does the cable need to be at right angles to the firewall? Below is a very bad diagram of what I mean - the top diagram is the current setup (cable horizontal to pedal box wall, then angled down to TB) and the bottom diagram is my proposed setup (cable direct from pedal to TB):

 

53925dbf1d264dad8e9e.png

Edited by nelmo

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