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Bodged wireing now car won’t start

Keith Cooper

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Hi, I have the super spec with Rover engine, it has what looks like ford Puma clocks and behind the clocks are two multi plugs into the clocks, whilst changing the stereo the plugs came out and at first I didn’t notice until I went to start the car, it wouldn’t start... I realised the plug had come out and plugged it back in.. the car started fine, the next day I went to Finish putting the stereo in so Double checked the plugs in the back of other clocks and because someone has modified the plug it was possible to put it in the wrong way round.... which unfortunately I did, there was a small spark as I put the plug in so I knew straight away the plug was upside down, but now the car will not start it just turns over.

i have checked every fuse I can and all is ok , I can’t get to the ECU very easily , before I call a auto electrician in

is there a fuse in the ECU I could have blown?

is there anything obvious that I have missed ?








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No there isn’t a fuse in the ECU but the ECU is powered by a relay with a fused supply. You can check if the ECU is working as it also turns on the fuel pump via another relay. When you turn on the ignition can you hear the fuel pump prime for a couple of seconds? If not, then there must be a blown fuse somewhere.

I’ve got a wiring diagram for the two plugs into the back of the Escort instrument panel, but I’m not at home atm. Have to sort them later for you. 

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Yes I have found all three relays, and there is a small bank of fuses next to two of the relays and they all ok... the fuel relay has a fuse on its its own and that seems ok as well... unless there is another fuse somewhere else under the dashboard I can’t see.

the problem is definitely electronic because the car turns over but no spark to the plug, also no fuel pump noise when you first turn on the ignition. .... I know I’m missing something I just don’t know what ?

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That's a bit odd.  I actually took my car to a Show without any dashboard or any of the instruments.  I just labelled it "Under Construction".😀   I can't think of anything in the cluster that would prevent it starting (depending on how it's been modified)

As Andy said, the first thing is to listen to the fuel pump to see if it runs for 2 seconds when you switch the ignition on.  As you don't hear anything that probably means that the power to either the ECU relay of the Fuel Pump relay has gone.   The second thing to do is listen very carefully when you turn the ignition off.   You should hear a series of clicks as the idle stepper motor returns it to start position and after about 10 seconds a definite click as the power is removed from the ECU relay  (The ECU remains powered up for a few seconds after the ignition is turned off, to allow a bit of housekeeping.

And try swapping the 2 relays with a known good one (I use the horn relay)

I'll get the diagnostic lead in the post as soon as I can as that should highlight the problem.

Edited by alanrichey
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Hi Alan, yes I thought so to but the wires or the instrument panel definitely stops the car starting, the wires behind the clocks look a bit of a mess really, I guess it’s wired that way... I will get a multimeter and test the wires to see if there’s any power going to them 

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One more thing - check if you have an in-line fuse somewhere around the coil. The original wiring on my car had two wires on the coil + terminal. One came out of the loom which I traced back to the white power cable from the ignition switch. The other had an in-line fuse and went to the instrument panel, joining to the white/black wire on terminal 12 of the black panel connector to feed the rev counter.

I don’t see how this would stop the ECU working though. 

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mine has a fuse box of 4 fuses under the dash as per original build 3 are 10amp i think the other is15 minenow can be visable by looking under dash on drivers side,also my fuel pump fuse is the 2nd on in at 10 amp, it might also be that ive moved the fuse box to make it easier to get to but there should be one somewhere behind your dashi have a photo but i have never been able to put them on this site if you want it pm me your email address

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And as promised, this is the instrument panel wiring on my car. The wires in the Ford connectors were spliced to the Superspec loom as follows.

White connector:

1 orange/blue to red - 12v from lights for panel illumination

2 purple/white to blue/white - main beam

3 black to black - earth for illumination

4 empty

5 black/yellow to black/yellow - brake warning

6 white/green to blue/green - temp sender

7 white to green/black - fuel sender

8 black to black - earth for fuel & temp gauges

9 empty

10 empty

11 empty

12 purple to green - 12v switched power for gauges

Black or Blue connector:

1 black/red to black - earth for indicator warning

2 blue/yellow joined to green/red & green/white - indicator warning

3 empty

4 empty

5 empty

6 empty

7 blue to brown/yellow - alternator warning

8 black/green joined to both black - coil -ve  and also white/black - ECU pin 25

9 white/green to black - earth for tacho

10 black/yellow to white/brown - oil pressure sender

11 empty

12 white/black to green - coil +ve

Your wiring colours may be entirely different of course, but hope this helps track down your issue  

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On a side note i think its a fuse but the wiring on a superspec is awful. Plus i know if i hear fuel pump it starts every time no hear no start

Edited by wanderer
Mis spelling
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