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NickandNeil

IVA spec worries

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Desperatly trying to get my barn find, (Exmo) ready for it's first IVA and would like advice please.

Where do I get the specs for the weights for an Exmo from.  I see some listed on other  forums but none for an Exmo.  Are they the same?

There is a gap between the bonnet and the sides of the car see pic 3, is this permissable?  Is there a seal or strip of rubber that should go there?

The internal sharp edge on the front susspension.  see pic 2 do they need rubber protection?

The round edge that is cut into the side pod for the exhaust.  See pic 1.  should that have rubber protection?

I have seen on someone elses forum that they failed on the rear reversing light lense was not being horizontal and that it needed shimming.  see pic 1.  shurely mine is vertical enough?

I have no front fog lights on the car only rear ones.  Is that OK?

Also the rear fog lights can be swithched on with the side lights.  (I am using the Sierra loom).  Again I have read on another forum that they should only work on dipped.  Is this the case when you only have rear lights?

car pic 3.JPG

car pic 1.JPG

car pic 2.JPG

car pic 4.JPG

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Hi

Not sure on weights but someone on here will know.

Any edges with a radius of less than 2.5mm need to be protected so protect round the exhaust, the front suspension is a bit of a grey area as they have an exclusion zone in this area but for the sake of it put rubber over edge - minimal cost and effort. The bonnet gap should not be a problem as the edges are radiused anyway and the IVA ball test should show no concerns.

I would be tempted to shim with rubber the reverse light as very little effort to ensure compliance.

Only rule with front fog lights is if you have them they must work correctly, if you have fitted some take them off for the IVA.

You must have rear fog light(s) which must only come on with dipped headlights so from the Sierra wiring you will have to put in some diodes to control, there is plenty of information on previous forums showing the procedure so just refer - this worked well on mine.

Belt and braces job with external projections - check everything and if in any doubt cover it! Any nuts/bolts - plastic covers, cycle mudguards - edge rubber,  track rod adjuster - cover, edges 2.5mm or less - cover, exhaust edges with radius less than 2.5mm - protect and remember they will be checking from rear/side/front so any edge applicable. For the sake of a few £ and a little time it's worth it.Fuel cap must be tethered.

Displaying a bit of thought and professionalism goes a long way in the IVA testers opinion.

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The weights don't need to be too precise, they're just what they use for doing the braking calcs and the actual car needs to be lower than these figures so use 450Kg for axle 1,  600 Kg for axle 2 and 1050Kg for the Gross weight and you'll be OK.

Gap between bonnet and car sides - not an IVA fail so I'd leave it and maybe add a strip of foam post IVA to keep some of the dirt and water out.

Hole where the exhaust comes through - using the size of the exhaust for scale, it looks like the front edge of the hole furthest from the exhaust might be contactable. Put edge trim on it with the join at the back edge behind the exhaust where it's less visible.

Hole in the suspension buttress and the one in front of it  - again contactable so use edge trim. This stuff has glue in it so sticks well and will bent to a tighter rad than the other stuff you used. Take spare edge trim to the test, you might need it and £15 worth of it could potentially avoid a retest.

https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/10-x-8mm-satin-black-u-channel-edge-trim-per-metre

Agree with the above comments on the fog lamp.

Fuel filler cap might be a problem, it protrudes more that 5mm from the rear panel and looks to be less than 2,5mm radius. If it isn't more than 2.5mm rad you need to get it closer to the rear panel or add some sort of escutcheon around it to reduce the protrusion to less than 5mm. Also in this picture, inside the boot area also needs to comply with the 2.5mm rad rule so check it does or put a cover over the whole lot.

 

 

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Quick question, where are your side repeaters?

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richyb66 is right the fuel cap will be an issue both at the front and rear of the filler, get a replacement cap that is IVA acceptable and put a collar around the filler pipe to cover up the underside.

My tester failed mine on the space around the exhaust pipe which was less than yours and required a radius on the edges, this had to be metal as the heat from the exhaust would compromise rubber and because he wanted to see it as a permanent solution. His explanation also was that a pedestrian could catch their fingers in the opening, extreme chance but within reason what he said I had to agree with.

Again the question of side repeaters is valid although the photo only shows part of the cycle front guard, favourite position now is on the outside of the guard as they have to be at the widest point close to the front (actual dimensions as rule).

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21 hours ago, richyb66 said:

Quick question, where are your side repeaters?

on the front wings

15 hours ago, MrToad said:

richyb66 is right the fuel cap will be an issue both at the front and rear of the filler, get a replacement cap that is IVA acceptable and put a collar around the filler pipe to cover up the underside.

My tester failed mine on the space around the exhaust pipe which was less than yours and required a radius on the edges, this had to be metal as the heat from the exhaust would compromise rubber and because he wanted to see it as a permanent solution. His explanation also was that a pedestrian could catch their fingers in the opening, extreme chance but within reason what he said I had to agree with.

Again the question of side repeaters is valid although the photo only shows part of the cycle front guard, favourite position now is on the outside of the guard as they have to be at the widest point close to the front (actual dimensions as rule).

any idea where you get metal edging from for around the exhaust hole?

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21 hours ago, MrToad said:

Hi

Not sure on weights but someone on here will know.

Any edges with a radius of less than 2.5mm need to be protected so protect round the exhaust, the front suspension is a bit of a grey area as they have an exclusion zone in this area but for the sake of it put rubber over edge - minimal cost and effort. The bonnet gap should not be a problem as the edges are radiused anyway and the IVA ball test should show no concerns.

I would be tempted to shim with rubber the reverse light as very little effort to ensure compliance.

Only rule with front fog lights is if you have them they must work correctly, if you have fitted some take them off for the IVA.

You must have rear fog light(s) which must only come on with dipped headlights so from the Sierra wiring you will have to put in some diodes to control, there is plenty of information on previous forums showing the procedure so just refer - this worked well on mine.

Belt and braces job with external projections - check everything and if in any doubt cover it! Any nuts/bolts - plastic covers, cycle mudguards - edge rubber,  track rod adjuster - cover, edges 2.5mm or less - cover, exhaust edges with radius less than 2.5mm - protect and remember they will be checking from rear/side/front so any edge applicable. For the sake of a few £ and a little time it's worth it.Fuel cap must be tethered.

Displaying a bit of thought and professionalism goes a long way in the IVA testers opinion.

will shim the reversing light, thanks.  Will have to look through previous forums for these diodes.  I was thinking of just taking a feed off the front dipped circuit, so will check out the diodes first

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21 hours ago, richyb66 said:

The weights don't need to be too precise, they're just what they use for doing the braking calcs and the actual car needs to be lower than these figures so use 450Kg for axle 1,  600 Kg for axle 2 and 1050Kg for the Gross weight and you'll be OK.

Gap between bonnet and car sides - not an IVA fail so I'd leave it and maybe add a strip of foam post IVA to keep some of the dirt and water out.

Hole where the exhaust comes through - using the size of the exhaust for scale, it looks like the front edge of the hole furthest from the exhaust might be contactable. Put edge trim on it with the join at the back edge behind the exhaust where it's less visible.

Hole in the suspension buttress and the one in front of it  - again contactable so use edge trim. This stuff has glue in it so sticks well and will bent to a tighter rad than the other stuff you used. Take spare edge trim to the test, you might need it and £15 worth of it could potentially avoid a retest.

https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/10-x-8mm-satin-black-u-channel-edge-trim-per-metre

Agree with the above comments on the fog lamp.

Fuel filler cap might be a problem, it protrudes more that 5mm from the rear panel and looks to be less than 2,5mm radius. If it isn't more than 2.5mm rad you need to get it closer to the rear panel or add some sort of escutcheon around it to reduce the protrusion to less than 5mm. Also in this picture, inside the boot area also needs to comply with the 2.5mm rad rule so check it does or put a cover over the whole lot.

 

 

We have a carpeted boot area, it was just removed because i was wiring up a new number plate light.  Thanks for the advice on the fuel cap, this was a surprise, will go and measure it up.

 

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Anyone know of a mobile mechanic in Plymouth that is familier with webber carbs.  The thought of stipping mine down and retuning it fills me with dread?

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1 hour ago, NickandNeil said:

on the front wings

any idea where you get metal edging from for around the exhaust hole?

Make a "joggler" from a 6 x 25 mm piece of steel bar, hacksaw a 6 mm deep cut @ right angles about 10 mm from one end & use to turn raw edge into the engine bay. ( an action like an old fashioned tin opener ) all the way round; a little at a time. Repeat until raw edge is turned in.  May need to use a smaller section bar of leaving exhaust in place, or remove pipe to do the job properly.  

Bent metal is far more permanent than trim!!!2010_0206KITCARRHOCAR0007.thumb.JPG.f217a28af32e6d387ea5278ec1918e30.JPG

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My tester (Southampton) failed my rear fog-light on not being perfectly vertical.  But he passed my reversing lights being slightly angled.

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Good idea from fry61 and would easily satisfy the IVA requirements.

My edges were glass fibre so I did a fix for the tester using 15mm copper tube bent round to suit, I needed something to transmit the heat quickly away as the exhaust can get rather hot from the turbo and Westfield bodywork is all resin plastic.

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Couple of points to add :

- I too was picked up on foglight not being perfectly vertical; made 3D printed spacer to address. Rule did NOT apply to reversing light. Clearly stated for the fog light in required standard "Fitted so that the reflector is facing squarely to the rear". Do not confuse with "angles of visibility" which is a different thing entirely. Reverse light has no such stipulation and just states "must be positioned to face rear". However, I still spaced my reverse light the same as the fog light, just because it would look odd otherwise!

- On the exhaust hold at the side of the car, I put re-enforced rubber edge trim around it and passed with it as such. I guess my examiner wasn't so strict in that sense. Rather ridiculous treatment by your examiner really - a pedestrian sticks their fingers in the gap *around a hot exhaust manifold* and the concern is they may cut themselves? My god, what if they put their fingers within the wheel spokes and sliced the end of their finger off against the brake caliper 😮 I best fill in my wheels!

 

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3 hours ago, brumster said:

Couple of points to add :

- I too was picked up on foglight not being perfectly vertical; made 3D printed spacer to address. Rule did NOT apply to reversing light. Clearly stated for the fog light in required standard "Fitted so that the reflector is facing squarely to the rear". Do not confuse with "angles of visibility" which is a different thing entirely. Reverse light has no such stipulation and just states "must be positioned to face rear". However, I still spaced my reverse light the same as the fog light, just because it would look odd otherwise!

- On the exhaust hold at the side of the car, I put re-enforced rubber edge trim around it and passed with it as such. I guess my examiner wasn't so strict in that sense. Rather ridiculous treatment by your examiner really - a pedestrian sticks their fingers in the gap *around a hot exhaust manifold* and the concern is they may cut themselves? My god, what if they put their fingers within the wheel spokes and sliced the end of their finger off against the brake caliper 😮 I best fill in my wheels!

 

Thanks for the info, I may have got mixed up with fog and reversing lights.  I knew I had seen something on someones blog.  I havent got a 3d printer though so it will have to be a strip of rubber.

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If you can check me the dimensions of your fog light, if it's the same as mine (as supplied with Zero kit) I don't mind printing one off for you for the cost of the material and postage (<£4 I suspect)... PM me if you want... ;)

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