cb750

I'm getting the same overlap problem on safari on the iPad, in fact it's almost unreadable. Otherwise looks good so far.

20/50 oil is what I've always used on a pinto engine even though some of the oil companies say 10/40 is ok. I use Valvoline Racing VR1 oil as it is supposed to have extra additives to protect the cam. Steve, yes I have autocorrect and that's the problem! Rob

Steve, just edited my post. I meant to put pan scourers, not pan scouters!

Steve, has your catch can got a small outlet breather filter on it? If so, I have found with mine that it causes too much back pressure in the system and I had oil from my dipstick and it actually lifted the cam cover sealed filler cap. I took the filter off and put a pipe from the can outlet towards the ground, since the can was a cheap Chinese one and didn't work properly I filled it with stainless pan scourers to separate any oil from the gases. Problem solved. I have never had a pinto smoke as heavily as yours, doesn't white smoke from the filler indicate water in the oil? Rob

I wouldn't want to be driving behind a tempered glass windscreen if it shattered. Even though the particles are supposed to be blunt they can still damage your eyes. I got my marked laminated windscreen cut at a tractor windscreen suppliers of all places!

If you can't get one of the "open" ones I used a piece of powder coated aluminium diamond mesh that I picked up at a show but is available on eBay etc. Car Builder Solutions may have something similar. Don't go for too small a size that will restrict your air flow. I replaced my grill with it to protect the radiator from stones and the cooling system worked well all through the summer

I've got 17" 40 profile Rainsport 3s on mine and find them great. You have to watch as they have soft sidewalks so I run them at 20 psi, any less and they "squirm". They will take a bit more pressure without giving too hard a ride but I didn't find any improvement in handling.

Always used Hel on my Harley's and Goldwings - excellent!

Couldn't believe that the forecast was for snow at 10.30 this morning but it's here!

According to my rebuild manual, with the spring tensioner type, after the belt is positioned correctly with the tensioner backed off you release the tensioner so that it can tension the belt. It then says that because this has only tensioned one part of the belt you turn the engine half a turn clockwise and THEN tighten the locking bolt/nut on the tensioner.

Have you actually checked for a spark at the plugs? Could be the distributor. If it had been one with points I would have suggested the points closing up.

Haven't used one of those early spring type tensioners on the pinto for ages but from what I remember you can remove it with no problems once it has been slackened to to take the tension off the belt as it's not under tension side to side. Just slacken the fixing bolt steadily. Just looked in another manual on rebuilding the pinto and it just says "remove central bolt and remove spring tensioner". Rob

Here's another tool idea using angle, looks stronger than the one I made using bolts http://www.fordpinto.com/general-help/73-2-0-timing-crankcase-gear-will-not-come-off/

Quite a few companies stock the Euroquip brake line parts to assemble your own but I always try and support Car Builder Solutions when possible as their service is great.

I bought a KA master cylinder when I got rid of my brake servo. It is used because it's a smaller bore than the Sierra one and compensates for the lack of servo. It was supposed to fit directly in place of the servo but needed an adaptor plate making to get it to sit vertical and then I realised the bonnet wouldn't close with it fitted as it sat too high on my 3A ( the 2B is apparently OK) so I had to take it off again. I'm currently running no servo, a Fiat 132 cylinder with custom made push rod and remote reservoirs. When I was using the Sierra system I picked a Sierra master cylinder up off eBay with no problems.

My workshop manual gives 160-188 psi for compression test. My engine gives 195-200 psi on a skimmed head, FR32 cam and normal valve sizes. Rob

I made a puller like yours, soaked the gear with penetrant overnight then tightened it and hit it with a hammer to shock it. Repeated this a few times apparently with no effect. Slackened the puller than hit the face of the gear to see if I could drive it back. Soaked with penetrating oil again and repeated the process. After a long time doing this I finally got the gear to move. It took me 2 days to get the gear off! When I finally got it clear you could see that the previous owner had used a chisel on it to get it off before. Bought a brand new replacement and cleaned and oiled the crank before refitting. I was told they rust into place as any water leaks from the water pump go straight to it.

I think it's a 30/34 DFTH ? Not familiar with this carb but could it be the anti run on (anti dieseling) valve?

Yes I agree, I had a brand new hood for my 3A but I had to have it extended at the front by 30mm due to the windscreen position.

Renewed my 2 litre with A-Plan. £109 fully comp, 3000 miles and £6500 agreed value. Also renewed my wife's car insurance with a local broker and it had gone DOWN £50! No changes to the company or policy and we were on maximum NCB. The broker doesn't know why but that's a first!

I believe I used part of an old Mountney steering wheel sierra boss. I faced it off on a lathe to give a flat mounting surface for the quick release unit. I didn't use the horn push wiring in the quick release as my horn push is on the switch gear. I've used a flat steering wheel to give more distance. I'll see if I can get a photo posted up. I don't think you can use one of the weld on units because of the way the Sierra column is designed and assembled.

That's like the one I've used on my car. Had to put thin rubber on one of the parts to take out slight movement at the steering wheel rim but it's worked perfectly ever since

I also used 50 x 25 box section under the monocoque to tie the 2 brackets together to take the loading.

Car Builder Solutions do a set of lift off hinges for the doors

Just be careful if you use the straight tie bars as I found they restricted the steering turning circle due to my wheel offset. I ended up using the ends of the Sierra ant-rollbar as they have a curve (thanks,The Duck). The turning circle improved but I still had to put stops on the steering rack to prevent rubbing. Other members don't seem to have had this problem! Also on my series 3A I found that the bracket sizes shown on the drawing wouldn't allow my tie bars to line up correctly as I have polybushed my suspension which stopped the bars from being pushed over to meet the bracket. I ended up making larger brackets.