nelmo

Thanks Dave, I've seen your blog before but always wondered if that layout was awkward. Good to hear it works... Where did you get that strip of warning lights?

I'm just doing some dashboard layout ideas and after getting the GBS dash and seeing how narrow it is, it seems a tight squeeze to fit the main speedo and rev dials behind the wheel. The layout looks quite good with the speedo and revs in the middle of the dash but I'm wondering if anyone else has that sort of layout and finds it annoying ie. having to look down and sideways to see the speedo or revs rather than just straight ahead? (layout ideas here: http://zerokitcarbuild.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/dashing-through-slush.html)

As Bob says, no-one has a clue, that's why there is no data. Personally, I reckon it probably won't make a huge difference financially speaking - some businesses will lose out, others will gain. We'll save money not having to pay £x billion to the EU BUT we'll end up having to pay £y billion in extra import/export duties. It will be harder for the tourism industry but better for smaller companies who won't have to pander to all the petty EU bureaucracy. Based on that, probably better we stick with the Devil we know IMO...and let's use the tiger as a metaphor; strong, powerful but on it's own and on the verge of extinction. The deer it feeds on are thriving in their herd...(deep, huh? )

If it's any consolation, I bonded mine and it looks pretty crap. Fortunately, I'm not a perfectionist :-)

My point is that it's impossible NOT to use reconditioned parts - you can't get brand new Sierra hubs, drive shafts, diff, MT75 gearboxes etc, etc....

Sorry, I meant for a new plate... don't you just need a few 'new' bits? I bought my engine from GBS (really Ford) but the gearbox and diff from other companies and I've got invoices to show they are fully reconditioned. The government website says 'all new parts' but how would that ever be true for any kit car company, even the likes of Caterham?

Bought a plastic one off a Renault Clio for £12 off eBay. Not fitted it yet so could be rubbish, however...

I understood you only need a few (all?) of the main items (engine, gearbox, diff) to be new/reconditioned-as-new to get an age-related plate. Things like the steering column are not considered... EDIT: Doh! sorry, I meant 'for a new plate'...

I've used one skiing and one on a bike (Strava/strata or something like that) but never in a car. Just do a search for 'gps tracker' and install one at a time until you find one you like...

Those bike computers work on a magnet attached to the wheel and detecting each revolution. IIRC, max speed they can measure is something like 50mph and I imagine the odometer function wouldn't work above that speed? Edit: just noticed that one says it works up to 99mph, so that's fine because the speed limit is 70, so you'll never go that fast, hey? ;-) Wireless ones are also affected by interference from other electrical gadgets. Not a problem on a bike but might be tricky on a car? Have you got a smartphone with GPS? Lots of free GPS logging apps that will also record your exact route and display it on a map etc.

I Googled it and got some other videos... some serious kit there... Thanks and good luck for the season.

850bhp?!! Holy Cow - got any links/pics? No idea what a Gould is...

Just out of interest - does a heater help with coolant cooling or actually make it worse (because hot coolant is diverted away from the radiator and not cooled as well by the heater matrix)?

Yes, I've already got those but I bought them before actually looking at the thermostat. Only when I did that I realised it didn't have any ready-made holes. OK, I'll get drilling - if it doesn't work, I'll just have to get the water rail... Thanks... :-)

I was wondering if that was possible - is that hole in the top one that you mean? https://goo.gl/photos/bHfmqQjyyz4nqKRv5

I'm trying to use the original Ford thermostat on my 2.0 Zetec with an Emerald ECU. However, the engine's original coolant sensor is screwed into the cylinder head and is not compatible with the Emerald ECU. The thermostat does not have any threaded access to take the Emerald sensor. I was planning on just fitting it to the outlet pipe of the thermostat but then I have the problem of the ECU thinking the engine is cold for much longer than it really is (until the thermostat opens). I really wanted to avoid the extra cost of a water rail (the GBS one has an extra bit of pipe between engine and thermostat and that is where they have holes to fit the sensors). What are opinions on sensor after the thermostat? Apart from extra fuel, am I risking engine damage in some way? How much extra fuel - would it be noticeable? Anyone done this? As a follow on - has anyone gone without a thermostat at all? I guess the risk is never getting the engine to a good operating temperature - is that easy to do without a thermostat?

Eventually, I will be fitting a windscreen and I'm not using column stalks so I will be putting the wiper switches on the dash. However, I won't be fitting the windscreen (and thus wipers) before IVA. Is it OK to have the wiper switches on the dash that don't do anything or will I have to use blanks?

What I'm getting here is that both ways will be fine, although soldering needs more skill (which I don't have). Many thanks for all your posts - very enlightening...

Thanks all. I have got an Emerald ECU so I think I'll go the crimping route... my soldering skills are also pretty rubbish.

I'm no sparky - is there a recommended method of joining 2 wires (for wiring to engine sensors) ? I was planning on twisting them together, soldering and then heat shrink. But the Emerald documentation suggests that crimping 'can' be better as solder can wander, or something. If that is the case, is using butt connectors the way forward? This site gives a good description of crimping but doesn't really suggest if it is better: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Cable_crimping

Westfield are building driverless cars! http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-35432687

I'm not using a water rail on my 2.0 Zetec but I'm not sure exactly what pipework/connections I need. This setup is nice and simple: https://goo.gl/photos/MjFPsWGeym4eu66U6 .... But this one has a couple of extra pipes: https://goo.gl/photos/ugv4oc9EF7PPjzHE7 Any suggestions for which is best or other ideas?

Thanks all - didn't realise there would be a gearbox-specific oil. Found some and ordered...

My MT75 gearbox has a sticker on it telling me to fill it with GL-4 oil. I filled my diff with GL-5 oil and have some left over and I was going to just use that in the gearbox, on the assumption that GL-5 is the improved version and thus better. However, doing some research, I found this: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf ...which suggests this is not a good idea. Can anyone confirm/debunk this?

Can't Premier help you out? I'm just about to buy some fly leads from Emerald to go with their ECU and they have promised it will include details on where bits go etc...