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Tom09tom

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  • Car type
    Robin hood
  • Full name
    Tom W

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  • Location
    Northern

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  1. Mine failed on emissions. The guy said new spark plugs would sort it out.. 4 new plugs later and it passed easy.
  2. An update, I went ahead and got a timing light. Checked it and it was way to advanced. Moved it back to 10degrees then went for a test drive. Much improved. Revs a lot better and managed to get above 70 on the motorway and could have gone faster. I still want to take it to a rolling road and have an expert set it all up properly but at least now it is useable. Thanks
  3. Hi, thanks for the replies. Car has always run like this. I used it for one summer, then had the 2 years off. There must be something just not set correctly. The garage did have a look at the timing for me but they are more into modern cars. Think I'll get my self a timing light and start there. I will also check in the carb for debris.
  4. Hi all, So after 2 years off the road, I have gotten round to getting my robin hood back on the road. Passed mot after a new set of spark plugs cleaned the emissions up. However the engine is running poorly, it only revs to around 3000rpm and once there makes a horrible vibration noise. When driving it won't go above 60/65 mph. I don't know exactly what work has been done on the engine before I got it, and I am not an expert engine person, but the specs are below: 2L pinto , maybe has been bored out to 2.1. It's not a '205' block. Kent fr32 cam. Was told it will run on unleaded. Weber 32/36 carb with electric choke. I don't know what jets are in. What sort of performance should I expect from this engine? I am not after anything special but my little 1tr Suzuki city car is faster Will a session at a rolling road make a decent engine out of the setup I have got? Thanks in advance.
  5. Are the 'reactions' anonymous here?, usually you click on the reaction and it tells you who left it.. just wondering
  6. Nice :) this is the format I'm used to ;)
  7. Wow. Sounds just like mine when I got it.. 1, the electrical problem, I had the same thing (kept blowing a fuse) ,turned out there was a wire trapped under the drivers side, rear wheel arch which was causing a short. Fixed it by re insulating the wire and cable tied where It can't trap. 2. Fuel filler, mine stunk of petrol around the back end because I had the same set up as you describe. Fixed by removing it completely and replacing with new flexible fuel hose and jubilee clips on each end. I did a bit of fabrication in stainless steel to improve the fuel tank pipe connection and a new filler neck. Check any rubber parts in contact with fuel, after a while it starts to melt.. The fuel sender should be easy enough to re-seal. 3. Chassis , OK this job was done by a previous owner. They used thick aluminium plates to strengthen where the suspension is bolted. Everything is good and solid. 4. Suspension. Sorry don't know here mine was fine. However I did remove surface rust and paint with gloss black. 5. Engine. I don't know what you mean by 'fuel is very old', if you mean its been in the tank awhile , just disconnect the pipe going to the carbs, switch on ignition and pump what's in the tank into a container, then reconnect pipe and refill tank with new. I'm guessing it's a pinto engine. Just make sure it can be run on unleaded fuel.. other than that it should be fine with a few adjustments. Start with the ignition timing. That's about it I think, probably more I have forgotten or don't know I'm relatively new, more experienced members may be more help Good luck , Tom
  8. Got a new radiator and fan from coolex, very helpful on phone when designing rad and discount for purchasing over phone and not through eBay. Radiator came next day and fits and works perfectly, definitely recommend coolex.
  9. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/pinto-efi-injection-set-up-/192466293003 I have no connection to seller.
  10. You took the spare wheel off? Mine has a spare on the back, i will likely never use it because I don't carry a Jack , but I like the look of the back-end with the wheel on. Anyway looking good !!
  11. Well you guys were right! I got round to getting them on eBay. They sold within 2 months. Even better it only cost me £1 to sell(eBay offer). I advertised for £450 buy it now or best offer and accepted £350 plus a tenner postage. Some guy offered 190 !! I was like noooo. Overall happy. Thanks.
  12. Hi thanks for the reply's. The speedo is cable driven. Agent zed , with the method you used, can I leave the outer cable connected to the gearbox? Because it is very tightly boxed in and I can't even see it properly. Also when I say it's 10 % out. I don't mean the speedo, that's more like 50% out lol. It's the mile counter I'm talking about. I did 4 miles to the test place (sat nav measured)but the mileage only moved 3.6 and after the 4 miles back it read 7.2. The car was garaged for 10 years so these problems were always going to show up. It's all part of the fun.
  13. Passed the mot yesterday, only thing is that the examiner snapped the hand brake cable so there is another job. I rerouted the speedo cable and it is working slightly better but still not right, tested with a sat nav and it seems the odometer is counting about 10% lower than it should. I'm going to have another play when I get time.
  14. Hi again. So I have sorted out a lot of the jobs on my Robin Hood that I bought last year. The last thing is speedo, currently it is not working properly. It is jumpy and never accurate, but mostly it reads 0. Today I worked out how to reset the trip clock and the mileage counter is also working (how? When the speed isn't I don't know?). Has anyone else had this problem? I've read on the internet that I could require a new cable, but I want to be sure that is the problem before I buy one.. if I can find one? Any advise would be great, this is my last job before MOT and I'm hoping to go for the test next week, but there's no date yet. Pic of the speedo...
  15. It needs a good run through the car wash.... only joking, not a nice situation, hope you get sorted out.
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