phaeton

Only ever issue I have ever had with an AC unit is it having a leak in the condenser, you need to use a unit that will create a vacuum to see if it holds.

Had them in use for years in the past, if you're having issues then you should look at both surfaces to make sure they are flat. TBH these days I still make them out of cardboard or gasket paper (if I happen to have some) but I do put a thin smear of gasket sealant on both side, only because I have it available.

Problem is they are all different, the Shogun all I did was fit the unit in the back door, it was a simple matter of getting a permanent 12V there, then working out which was the 12V pulse to open & 12V pulse to close. The Jimny was a bit more work as you had to interrupt the switch on the drivers door lock otherwise you could only get it to lock or unlock can't remember which way. When I put it on the GTM K3 there was no CL existing unit & it fitted straight in. But looking at your wiring diagram it doesn't make sense, the CL unit is only controlling 1 unit, which in turn controls the other unit, but in your hand drawn diagram you appear to be trying to control each separately?

Cornflake packet works just as well

So are they using the standard MR2 motors, or have they removed them for the universal? I've fitted 3 of those kits & always managed to get them to work, but some times they do take a lot of fiddling with

If the base car is a MR2 does it not have CL as standard?

It's all about ease, strictly the answer is No, you don't need a donor car, but it can often make things much simpler, depending on the kit you are going to build, some kits such as the MEV Exocet only use parts from the MX5 so buying a donor gives you just about every mechanical & electrical part that you need to get on the kit built. It will also ease your way through IVA & ultimately Registration, if you do not use a donor you will almost certainly end up on a Q plate, which rightly or wrongly seems to carry a bit of a stigma, although it does have it's advantages. As to the best place, what kind of a kit do you want to build, as above the Exocet is probably the easiest kit to build & get through the IVA if you can live with the ugly fecker, but that's only my opinion, others think it's beautiful. If this is your first toe in the water have you considered buying a built car to see if it is a fit for you?

The simplest form is just to put an isolator in the main battery lead, but that may not be possible if you need anything to have a constant power feed, something as simple as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385822083656

TBF a filter is a filter is a filter, as long as it's one designed for the correct pressure for the engine the make is irrelevant, think I'm currently running one for a Vauxhall on my Mazda powered car, I just walked into the Motor Factor & it was what was on the shelf. But Bosch is a good make, so replacing like for like should be fine, also has the car been sat for a while with supermarket fuel in it, might be worth treating it to some none supermarket fuel & a bit of Redex, Aldi have it on offer currently.

Sounds fuel related to me, when was the last time that the fuel filter was changed, any chance of water getting into the fuel, do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

I stand apologetic, that's not how it was when I was in the industry but that was a long time ago, things move on

Not strictly true, the rule actually says as vertical as practical, it's somewhat open to interpretation, I would be interested to know exactly what they were 'done for', the only thing you can be 'done for' is technically no manufacturer produces a stick on backplate which meets the current reflectiveness required, but this has always been the case. Your car should have failed it's test unless it was manufactured before 1st Jan 1980, DVLA changed the rules from 1973 a couple of years ago, so only cars manufactured before that date can have black & white plates.

Part time dealer doesn't know what he's selling, why would anyone put a Lotus badge on SMH

I could get that off in less than 30 seconds, the fact is if the 1% wants your car they are going to take it, what you have to stop or at least slow down is the other 99% which this will do.

Don't bother with the handbrake lock, waste of time, a swift kick from the side will see it come off, battery cut-off switch is a good idea, or as you say a hidden switch on the fuel pump.

Either the wire on 2 is the wrong one, or the coil is getting a 12v from elsewhere.

His profile says Dudley not sure if it's correct

As you have 2 issues based around gauges, then it could be the dash, so before dropping the tank, I would locate the temp sender in the engine bay & short out the wire to ground. With your ignition on your temp gauge should read HOT!! If you can locate the fuel sender wire grounding that out should make the gauge show FULL! If neither of these happen, fault the dash first.

You may joke, but I have 2 recollections of being a young lad sitting on the front slam panel of a Ford Corsair 200E V4 being driven around the estate by my father, I have no idea exactly what I was doing there, but presumably looking for something moving as he drove. The other one is being put in the boot of a Ford Consul I think it was to try to work out where the knocking was coming from as again he drove around, seem to remember a very dim torch. or was that a very dim son

If it's only happening when the diff is pushing check the drivers engine mount, or gearbox Sorry wrong way around, if you are standing at the front on the car & the engine is spinning clockwise, then all the pressure is on the passenger side engine mount as it tries to compress that mount as you accelerate, but as you lift off/decelerate it tries to compress the drivers & lift the passengers, if that mount has gone it will allow the engine to move. Problem is you might not see it at standstill you may have to get a pry bar in.

I don't believe it needs another relay as it is currently being controlled by a changeover relay (labelled light solenoid), if the wiring is as @Sparepart suggests than all you need to do is provide a +12V feed through a momentary make/break switch (push button/flick) whatever your preference to pin 36 on the light solenoid. Scrap that, Apologies, that would only work if the light switch was already on dip

Does the toggle switch only have 2 positions? If so you could instal a separate flash only switch

Not an expert on Pinto engine by any extent, so hopefully somebody who really knows will be along later, but I would not expect the oil pressure to drop as the RPM increases, I would expect the pressure to increase & then be maintained. If it's falling off I suspect that the oil pump is worn & oil is getting past the lobs.

Sorry that should have said, heli-coil OR nut & bolt You may have to put a drill through

Looks like somebody stripped the thread, you could try heli-coil nut & bolt