Leslie Walters

I am currently running the standard 28/32 Weber on my 1.6 Pinto, my question is will the 32/36 Weber fit my standard inlet manifold?

I did mine last year, same discs as yours, (240mm vented) they came up really nicely with just a regular cutter and now measure 21.60mm, performed great for 1600 miles now.

Hi Lewis, my car is a Haynes Roadster, (Pinto engine) so different to yours however the rad mount looks similar, my car has a header tank but I am sure cooling would not be a problem without it (my electric fan never comes on) but a couple of points to consider, is the rad cap accessible with the bodywork fitted and in the case of my car I unbolt the header tank and raise it when refilling the system. (makes it very simple to bleed.)

I don't know this particular master cylinder but the fact that it has dual reservoirs does it have dual pistons? (one front and one rear) if it does then it is usual to bleed the front and rear together, simply because once you get rid of the air in either the front or rear then you will only get very limited pedal travel to bleed the air from the other end. Not a problem but you may need another pair of hands.

Apparently this cup washer is to prevent excessive movement in the gearbox mount, I had the same problem with my Haynes Roadster (ground clearance) so I removed it and replaced it with a standard spring and plain washer and it did not appear to have any detrimental effect, I believe there is a "heavy duty" replacement available which I suppose is just increased rigidity in the rubber.

Yea, the Ka cylinder is the one I will be using.

That's very local to me so would go provided work doesn't get in the way, would have to confirm nearer the time.

Would have to agree with Ian, mine are standard Sierra brakes and they stop fine, the only thing I will be doing to improve mine is to change the master cylinder for a smaller bore, this will reduce the pedal pressure but the main reason is to give the pedal a bit more feel, it's very solid and "wooden" with the current one.

When you say it behaved pretty badly at the top end does that relate to the top speed or top RPM? Also how many MMs is "a few MMs off centre"?

Don't know if this helps but on my Haynes Roadster the gearbox will not come out with the engine in so I removed the engine mounts from the block as well as from the outboard end which allowed me to slide the engine forward on a jack under the sump with a wooden block to spread the weight the gearbox then came forward enough to come out, seems like a bit of a mess but it was actually quite simple and didn't take long, obviously it might be totally different on yours, hope this helps if in fact you do have to remove the gearbox.

Sounds pretty obvious but have you tried e-bay?

Just my opinion but I have found this club very helpful, been a mechanic all my working life but there are always things to learn and other people's ideas to consider. Best of luck with the build and IVA.

Thanks Bob, had a look at the Dave Andrews link, I will give it a go, it's an excuse to use my little lathe and make up some spacers, I have already modified the gear lever to straighten it the 2nd and 4th positions were too far back for my seat position but a little less movement would be good as well. Sorted the clutch now, staying with the cable but changed the ratio at the pedal slightly and made an adjuster. Thanks again.

I'm pretty sure this is a blind threaded hole that replicates the right hand side of the block which mounts a brace that goes to the bottom of the bell housing, I guess it was done to facilitate the starter being fitted on the other side for different applications.

Used loads of Facet pumps on historic race cars, always found them to be a reliable product, AV mounts are the way to go but some of them on the market are rubbish, try these people "AV industrial products" good quality and really no money for what you will need.