Leslie Walters

Don't know if this helps but on my Haynes Roadster the gearbox will not come out with the engine in so I removed the engine mounts from the block as well as from the outboard end which allowed me to slide the engine forward on a jack under the sump with a wooden block to spread the weight the gearbox then came forward enough to come out, seems like a bit of a mess but it was actually quite simple and didn't take long, obviously it might be totally different on yours, hope this helps if in fact you do have to remove the gearbox.

Sounds pretty obvious but have you tried e-bay?

Just my opinion but I have found this club very helpful, been a mechanic all my working life but there are always things to learn and other people's ideas to consider. Best of luck with the build and IVA.

Thanks Bob, had a look at the Dave Andrews link, I will give it a go, it's an excuse to use my little lathe and make up some spacers, I have already modified the gear lever to straighten it the 2nd and 4th positions were too far back for my seat position but a little less movement would be good as well. Sorted the clutch now, staying with the cable but changed the ratio at the pedal slightly and made an adjuster. Thanks again.

I'm pretty sure this is a blind threaded hole that replicates the right hand side of the block which mounts a brace that goes to the bottom of the bell housing, I guess it was done to facilitate the starter being fitted on the other side for different applications.

Used loads of Facet pumps on historic race cars, always found them to be a reliable product, AV mounts are the way to go but some of them on the market are rubbish, try these people "AV industrial products" good quality and really no money for what you will need.

Thanks Richy yes, I take your point, not insurmountable but a little more difficult, been having a look today and had a few ideas regarding the cable set up and rigged it up to try a couple of different pedal ratios and liked the feel of less travel at the pedal. I think a re-design to incorporate cable adjustment and a ratio change will be the way to go.

I am still changing things on my Haynes Roadster done by the original builder/owner, the clutch cable arrangement is to be honest a bit of a bodge and was thinking of changing to hydraulic and wondered if anyone had attempted this, my plan was to fabricate the necessary brackets for the slave and master cylinders. Also does anyone have the "quick shift lever" and are they worth it?

Couldn't agree more with MarkBzero, bought my Haynes after years of toying with the idea of buying a "kit", everything will always get in the way, mine is not yet where I want it but it's reliable and safe,looks OKish but most of all it's FUN. My grandson showing an interest in cars tipped me over the edge and spurred me on to getting the car, now we work on it together and have spent a fair amount of time on local country roads during the summer "blowing the cobwebs out".

They are not special bolts so you could just source them pretty much anywhere, E Bay will certainly have them but you will need to know the pitch, looks like 1.25mm, I would suggest a 10.9 strength bolt.

Already got it, small lathe for all those little jobs where you say "bloody hell, wish I had a small lathe"

Max, I am looking for a 32/36 carb for my 1.6 Pinto so when you decide on the upgrade I could maybe offset the cost if the old carb is surplus to you.

Looking really good, you'll be praying for some decent weather when it's finished. What is the black trim you have on the side panel, been looking for something like that but exhaustive searches have only really produced one option which I don't think will look as nice.

Sounds very interesting, would definitely be interested.

Come across these switch terminals on historic race cars, a blob of silicone over the connector appears to work well.