richyb66

Would this do - they don't come much cheaper than this but it probably need some work too http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...c=24418&hl= Might be worth just swapping in a runner for now then strip and rebuild yours. Update your details to show your location - someome may be nearby who can help.

I don't know about the box, but the flat steel strip at B & Q is cr@p quality, if you try and bend it, it cracks and it's got some sort of varnish on it (presumably to stop it rusting) - hideously expensive too. Apart from that I can thoroughly recommend it !!!

As a start, can't you bolt the lower ball joint underneath the wishbone rather than on top. Also not a great help now but the lower wishbone mounting channel looks like it would have been better off fitted on top of the chassis tubes rather than underneath which would allow the wishbones to angle down at normal ride height, the damper to be closer to the right length and would save all the packers under the rack. How thick is the ball joint mounting plate in the lower wishbone - I'd be concerned that it might bend further if you hit a pot hole without having some webs welded across the folded part.

Yep, I was there at the time too. Found it a bit questionable myself as the mudguard turns with the wheel which would mean that if the wheel was on full lock one way or the other, the repeater wouldn't be visible from the rear between the 5 degree and 60 degree outboard angles. The Zero on the stand at the show had the lamp in the outboard vertical surface of the mudguards, maybe on the top of the mudguard at the outboard edge would be better as it would still (possibly) be visible as the wheel turned but would need to have enough protrusion for the light to be visible - which would probably make it look cr@p. The only possible place that would seem to meet the wording of the regulation would be somewhere fixed that's spaced out from the side panel so the the lamp is within 400mm of the side, like something on an ugly stalk or fitting into the side mirrors.

Cheers Gaz.

Gaz, I'm probably going to need a pair too - I've got a pair in stainless already but they're about 5mm thick. I can't see how they could possibly be bent to match the shape of the scuttle when they're so thick, I'd have thought that 3mm stainless would be more than thick enough but would be interested to see what thickness others have used. Rich.

Jess, I gave a carb balancer foc to Joel as he was in need of one at the time and I had one gathering dust- drop him a pm and see if he'll loan it to you as a fellow area member, I'm sure he won't have a problem with that. Maybe he can bring it to the meet on Wednesday? Rich.

Yes, I welded some plates on the end of the box section that were vertical but then the top edge rolled round to match the profile of the chassis tube and welded all round the plates. I suppose you could make up a similar assembly of crossmembers and then bolt them in place but as my chassis is just plain stainless, welding seemed the quicked option.

I didn't want to have anything sticking down under the car, so I've used 25 x 25 box running across the car in 2 places under the seat. Obviously this would bend once it's got 2 seats and a couple of bums on top of it so I then boxed this back up to the tunnel top tubes either side of the prop. I also ran a couple more pieces longitudinally between the 2 cross pieces to stiffen it all up. The disadvantage is that it does make the bottom of the tunnel quite wide but the whole thing is very strong, the prop is enclosed by something substantial should that fail (like it no doubt will) and in the corner between the vertical piece and the longitudinal piece, I've fabricated a substantial mount for the inner seatbelt bolt. It's all stainless and welded in place - and the floor sheet is rivetted on underneath. It's a but difficult to describe but if you look here http://www.oldschoolannexe.com/photos/inde...p?album=%2F0000 and see photos 16 to 19, 26 to 29 and 31 to 34 it might make a bit more sense.

I won't be there as I'm away for the week but thought I'd ask for clarification for some of the newer visitors to the forum that are local - just in case they decided to pop along.

Presumably that's Wednesday week, 30th September and not this Wednesday?

Can I have just the lamps (not the chrome rings) please. I'll be there Sunday.

Put the gearbox in gear to stop the output shaft turning. Then it's just a case of jiggling and rotating the propshaft until it catches on the splines and then push it home.

WOW! Before I start to take the p*** and ask them some silly questions - I need to know if it's anyone on here.

How about Jess - his Zero is very well put together, a real credit to his efforts. He's usually at the monthly meet on the last Wednesday of the month at the Malt Shovel Pub on the A45 / A452 island near the NEC (shameless meeting plug!!)

A bit of light reading for anyone with an interest. http://www.aronline.co.uk/tonistoryf.htm

I was planning on going as I'm in the Midlands that weekend but if its 25 quid to get in I'll give it a miss and have a day in the garage instead.

I got mine from Mtec Racing in Tamworth as they're local to me and were dead helpful - paid £15 for the pair as I paid cash, didn't want a reciept and I collected them. They've got an Ebay shop http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Mtec-Racing-Services that sells all the bits but if you give them a ring and tell them what your after e.g. M10 bulkgead fitting one end, M10 fine to suit Ford caliper the other end and the overall length, they should make them up to suit. Think they're normally about £12 each. Their phone number is 01827 250646

Sounds cool - can't you just live with it?

I started to fit my Premier loom last night. No wiring diagram supplied with it but the written instructions look clear and easy to follow and there seems to be plenty of wire on all the breakouts so there shouldn't be any need for any extending to make it reach (unlike some other looms I've heard about). Price was (as JJ says) around £120 - only downside was the delivery was a bit slow but when I chased Alan up he sent it out immediately. OK the cost isn't the cheapest way of doing things but it should go in quickly and stand a chance of working, plus with everything new (as opposed to re-used Sierra), when I'm broken down at the side of the road in the rain, at least it probably won't be dodgy wiring that's the problem.

Are you sure the fish aren't drinking it?

Yes, Grant boilers. They're good, very efficient and made in the UK (but with an Italian Riello burner). I fitted a Vortex Combi 26 (condensing combi obviously) last year to my place in Wales, it's a good bit of kit but like most oil boilers they aren't cheap to but so it pays to shop around. The list price seemed very high but I got mine for just under £1700 incl VAT and a further £170 for a low level balanced flue. All the info is on their website at www.grantuk.com I can't comment on the running costs because it was a new system and I'm not living there all the time so I've not got much to compare it to. I also fitted the Grant GEO360 controlled to the system as this further increases the efficiency but at nearly £600 just for the controller it'll be while before it pays back. Financially it's a worthwhile add on but it was an utter nightmare to wire up and Grant were no help as the unit is made in Canada and they just market it under their brand name - and I suspect they don't sell many due to the cost. I just had to figure out all the wiring myself, it works a treat now and the beauty is that it's so complicated to adjust the temperature that the missus doesn't fiddle with it! Let me know if you want any more information.

There might be something for sale here maybe this weekend? http://imm2009.com/imm/ Allegedly there's 50,00 people expected to visit.

Someone buy this man a diary.

How much too long? From memory the shafts expand when you take then off (not sure if the joints are spring loaded inside to stop the driveshaft rattling around). Pass the shaft through the suspension arm from the outside, engage the splined end of the shaft in the diff, gently tapping the other end of the driveshaft to make sure it's fully home and then bolt the hub carrier to the suspension arm. I seem to remember when I did mine I had to push the carrier hard against the suspension arm to compress the shaft and start the bolts. Maybe start it off with a couple of longer bolts?