fry61

Think laterally; it's not a heater 'tis an additional cooling rad for when the loud pedal is in jet-propelled mode or (warp-drive for our younger readers)

Is the councils attitude "swivel on this"

It's just another version of "The Peckam Spring" ----don't we all wish we could think of a way of selling water at 10 times the price!!!

There speaks a man? with a Fiat 500 worth 2 pence 1/2 'apenny!!

Sounds like another good wheeze-- like not reminding you when your SORN runs out until your well in the red. P.S. if you haven't got a valid licence have you still got valid insurance?

Try southpolemagnets on E bay they are very good on range & power.

Fortunately for me & my wife WORK is a distant memory; after a combined 90 years of it we retired 3 years,5 months & 8days ago

Thanks for all the replies; it is more than likely this old fool got his Farenhiet & Centigrade scales & memories of solder melt temps mixed---so don't rely on it as you age!! Florin Metal Works is a hobby name used by me & a mate-- also Bob =built by 2 Bobs AKA 2 shillings=Florin for those too young for pounds,shillings & pence. So my brazed copper joints are probably OTT but I still need to know if I should (or can) re-harden the copper.Earlier posts saying quench in water are wrong--copper is annealled when cooled rapidly & I don't know what frequency sound or engine vibration would cause the required "hardening" So more posts please; even the silly ones may help pass the evening. Regards Bob.

Hi all, I have made several parts of my cooling pipework from standard copper tube--I have brazed(welded) all joints with 93/7 copper/phosporous rods as ordinary solder goes pasty at 100'C + & silver solder is SO expensive. Question is due to very high heat required in jointing the resultant job is very soft even when allowed to cool normally in still air; now comes the Q.? if you're still awake--- how do I restore the copper to "normal" hardness---or don't you? Awaiting your wisdom, regards Bob.

A magnetic stainless steel is high in ferrous & is therefore less stainless-- it is not called stainfree steel-- unfortunately!!!

With sheet metal-work is not a safe-edge acceptable? (Sheet folded back on itself to make double thickness & rounded) I thought SVA would permit this finish & not insist on a wired edge (which takes a lot more skill & time)

P.M. to MartinP if you still want one; very helpful guy with loads of Sierra bits---less 2 or 3 which I got,thanks again Martin.

It,s later this year so snow should be all gone----- to be replaced with-------wall to wall SUNSHINE

Picked up my 2" x 7/16" UNF bolts at Exeter for a £1

Went to the show on Saturday with several other club members, met up with 2 lovely fellow hoodies from Brum, good chat over lunch,bought loads of goodies ,great show but looks like Sunday was busier.

Thanks lads, that's enough to be going on with; should get me sorted O.K

Thanks for the replies; I specified UNF 'cos the UNF nuts are already welded to the underside,regards Bob.

But is it as good as one designed & fitted to Bentleys? Mine arrived to-day , looks brill & it's something for the passenger to play with.

I require 2x 2" (50mm) 7/16" UNF bolts or sets in 8.8 grade or better for seat belt mounts that have turned out a tad deeper than intended,thanks Bob.

Will the club area be on grass or hard-standing--will the clubs tent be there--can bring a tent if required but needs grass pitch--several Southern girls & boys will be there on Saturday, see you all then.

Thanks for that; have just ordered & paid for one,regards Bob.

I've found a spare nut for the lower ball-joint if you still need one.

Enjoy the next 5 years,------ then it really is------ALL down-hill

You're getting soft, Graham, it only pi33ed-down for a couple of hours in the morning-- by the time the entrance was a mud-bath it stopped raining & it was WONDERFUL warmish weather for the rest of the day.

Another stupid idea; but it makes more money for the gov/bandits; signed even though my sailing days are probably passed.