MarkBzero

I have an old one spare, just bench tested it and all working free to a good home if you can cover postage or arrange collection.

As already stated, fuel pump switch and removable steering wheel. I tried the gear lever and handbrake device but it was too short to secure properly.

I was going to leave the Sierra steering wheel on for the IVA test but it was a struggle to get in and out so I opted for a smaller wheel. It was a challenge to remove the Sierra steering wheel, brute force and a home made puller. Then I fitted the standard steering boss from GBS. Then a small steering wheel, first job after IVA to fit a removable steering wheel for security and to assist me getting in and out.

Hopefully this will help.

I can recommend the universal gaiter mentioned above I have four on my car.

Hi Richy, If DVLA ever return my plates I'll be there.

I believe it is an old style EGR switch valve, the bottom section receives a electronic signal from ECU type device when engine reaches a certain temperature, this then activates a vacuum that opens a valve to allow hot exhaust gas to flow into the inlet manifold. Very crude compared to the modern devices and technology.

I know how you feel mine failed first time, a nice and easy list to resolve.

You can use one of these, I know it's a bit pricey but save's time of wiring relays and all the additional wires. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARTEK-Rear-Fog-Light-Switch-Control-Unit-meets-latest-IVA-regulations-Kit-cars-/380829494694?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58ab34eda6

Good idea Bob, job noted for next garage time.

Now to fit all the components to bring the dashboard to life. The rev counter was a simple connector to the coil. Speedo used two magnets fitted to the diff flange, I drilled a small hole the same diameter as the magnets and used some araldite. The sensor was held in place with a P clip bolted to the tunnel side wall. Coolant straight forward fitted to sensor in block. Oil pressure sensor was anew unit which came with the ETB gauges. Fuel level sender was shortened to fit the tank, this was secured by some lousy soldering and the inside of wire connector, I also added the separate earth point which is now required for IVA.

Registration doc's sent DVLA, hopefully I will be there.

Hi Ian, Don't bother with fitting more relays, get a good switch, I have the sierra loom try this idea to fix the fog lights much easier and quicker than fitting another relay. http://www.rhocar.or...topic=35611&hl=

Dashboard, I went for the classic old style ETB gauges and modern GBS yellow dash a really good contrast. Firstly I photo copied the gauges and then cut them out to check the spacing and format I wanted and also to check they are not obstructed by the steering column. Then using a hole saw and file each gauge was fitted. Next step was to make a simple loom to fit the Sierra loom, this involved bench testing all gauges then cutting the loom to size and fitting connectors so I can remove the dash at a later date.I then secured the wiring using black conduit. Really happy with the finished product, and it worked first time.

I used heat shrink and black sealant instead of grommets and yes, I could have used one but to get it through the roll bar I folded the cable in half and then taped the thicker copper wire to the brake light cable.

It was very easy, I used a piece of copper wire (earth wire) fed it into the bottom of the roll bar and then used another piece of wire to fish the cable out. Once it was through i taped the correct cable and pulled through, simples. I thought it would be much harder, but no issues.

Excellent, now for painful part waiting for DVĹA. All the best Mark

I followed a kit car to Newark once and thought that the brake lights were too low on the rear arches. Other cars did not see them brake, especially the Chelsea tractor brigade so I decided to fit a high level brake light. Nothing to difficult a simple 5 LED light wired into the brake circuit. Fitted through the roll bar from the under the suspension top mount. The finished light.

Cleaned and course sand paper, then cleaned again.

All I can say is don't under estimate how many nuts, bolts, washers (all types) and rivets you will use during the build. I used eBay http://stores.ebay.co.uk/About-Town-Bolts very good service and quick delivery.

Hopefully I will have registration details back from DVLA before the next meet.

Front wheel arches, nicked the idea from Nick (shaft) and used some galvanized plaster edging stuff and silkaflex adhesive. First I cut a piece down to fit inside the wheel arch and used 4mm stainless steel rivets. I then added a huge amount of silkaflex and placed the wheel arch onto the supports, the axle stand was set at the right height for IVA. Once in the right place I started to spread the excess silkaflex under the arch and mounts. Only time will tell if this is going to stay on.

They will be replaced on Saturday I will also be fitting the screen and wipers.

At this stage I decided to fit the nose cone indicators using the GBS supplied lights and spacer. I did not want wire everywhere, so I bought some threaded bar and drilled through the centre to feed the wires through, looks much better. Used some gaiters from a car-boot to cover the brackets and wires. I fitted the grill by drilling four small holes and secure it using the metal insiders of a terminal block. I really do not like these lights - first job after IVA, replace front indicators.

The front was easy to fit, but because I had the radiator with the pressure release cap I decide to use a hinge on the bottom and rivnuts on the top. This allowed the nose to pivot forward when I undone two hex screws. This was the earlier version which did not cover the front suspension mounts so I had trim the fibreglass and then fit rubber u-trim for IVA. Bottom mount for the hinge. Top mount, fitted with rivnut and countersunk screw. I have also fitted a chain so the front grill does not touch the floor.