IanS

Sounds like the normal sierra master cylinder. The 2 outlets to the front are in place of a T so the same pressure all round. This master cylinder internally is in 2 parts so that a single hydraulic leek still leaves you with some brakes, either both front OR both back. The split in braking force is given by the relative piston area in the calipers / wheel slave cylinders. Normally the front are significantly larger.

the angle of the taper is what counts 0 45 90? ( pure camber / half and half/ pure toe) But as the angle of the pivot for the trailing arm is approx 30 degrees there will always be bump steer from the back, ford deliberatly designed it this way. The BMW Z axle also operates this way. In a PURE back axle the rear wheels track inside the front wheels whilst turning and the front wheels take a greater side load ( due to the bigger diameter circle they take) and this leads to understeer in the limit (BAD) haveing some rear steer due to roll ( the inside wheel is lightly loaded and just skids) evens out the side load and makes a safer car. The cheep modified mini dampers that became zimerides could not control the rear end as they were designed for a rear suspension where the trailing arm pivot was across the car and there was no rear roll steer.

Just to state the obvious. The alternator also needs a return path in order to work properly. Check for volts between the alernator body and the battery negative should be 0V. I have known the alternator mounting to the engine haveing problems due to rust etc.

Our cars do not have doors. If they have doors they must have burst proof locks. Side screens on the other hand.......................

you can tell between type 9 and mt75 by where reverse is. Type 9 is push down then hard left and forward. MT75 is lift guard and back from 5th. incidently the mt75 was the first mass production box with syncromesh on reverse.

I also have the 32/36 DGAV. When I got the complete engine it did not run very well so I stripped and cleaned the carb and replaced the float neadle and fitted new gaskets. The engine was improved but still was off on idle. Removing the inlet manifold revealed a leaking gasket so i cleaned up the head and manifold mating surfaces and fitted a new gasket. Idle problems solved but still cutting out at high power, replaced the mechanical fuel pump and problems solved. The car has run like this for over 60,000 miles since.

I use cut down ford wiper arms with a sierra wiper cut in half bolted to each arm. I have used a screwdriver to open out the spring as they were perssing to hard on the screen.

Rad hot at top and cold at bottom is rad and thermostat working. Thermostat controls flow to keep engine hot, so with coolish air temps the water getting to the bottom of the rad will be cool to cold. at lower power the thermostat will be almost closed and restrict water flow through the rad so that by the water gets to the bottom it is cold. Dont forget that the rad will be sized to still work in death valley at the hottest day of the year whilst towing a couple of tonne trailer up a 1 in 4 hill.

Ford do a three way heater control valve for the first KA. It is electrically operated but will work as a simple switch with 12V or no volts. It eithersends the water round the heater or it just acts as a recirculate path to heat the inlet manifold. Other ford cars may also use a similar system

You will need a pipe diameter adaptor each way 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch. As long as there is flow this will not have further effect or cause problems.

Check that the plugs into the stearing colum switches are not loose. They come in from the froun of the car and should lock in. Fairly easily seen with the cowl removed.

Fit the little plastic cam that ford fitted to the shaft to do this.

you can fit a pinto to anything

http://www.europaspares.com/interior-parts/instruments-gauges.html first one that came to mind

My car just pased the MOT this year with the handbrake and rear brakes just above the limit. So I took the rear drums off for the first time since the build 18 years ago, The rear right wheel hydraulic cylinder had started leaking and contaminated the shoes. I got new wheel cylinders and new shoes. The new shoes have the leading shoe with a reasonable amount of friction material but the trailing shoe is very thin and I cannot get them to work very well (probably because they do not conform well to the brake drum) so I am trying to obtain a better set but no one is answering how thick the new shoes are. The problem is that these have been out of production too long to give much choice of spares.

is the frount diff OK? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Probably find that the pipes connect on the other side. Should be no problem to extend the pipes round the new master cylinder.

What size is the fuse that blows? It could be simply an inadequate fuse or it could be that the wire to the rear fog light has worn through someplace and is shorting to ground. You can check for shorts by useing a test light ( old working bulb say indicator 21W with leads to crock clips soldered on ) between the battery +ve and both connections of the rear gog light in turn with everything switched off, if the test bulb lights up for both connections then you have a short in the fog light cable. As for the speedo then most if not all sierra guages were mechanical and the cable easiest to install cable route involves a sharp bend just out of the gearbox where the inner breaks.

DOHC timing is chain driven. They do strech with age and can jump a tooth. More than a tooth (maybe 2) and you will get valve piston contact. you could check timing.

posible that sensor was picking up on balance weights (not a good idea) and these have been removed and replaced in slightly different position unfortunatly putting somthing on wheel rim to trigger pick up will mess up wheel balance

If you do not have a voltage regulator then even the correct sender & guage combination will read hot.

When engine running it is sucking air in therefore everything in the carb is below atmospheric pressure, how much below depends on where in the carb. This sucks the petrol in. When stopped the carb then becomes at atmospheric pressure and the petrol can leak untill the float chamber is empty.

you are probably coasting down hill to get vac advance past the 36 degree 3500RPM limit. But the old bob weight / vac system will go to these sort of advances I am not certain how much MPG you actually gain in these extreem points of the curve.

fuel level 41mm if this is not right then everything else is out. throttle diameter 32/36 (goes without saying) but have seen wrong chokes fitted. idel jet 45/45 main jet 130/130 air jet 165/120 emulsion f66/f66 all primary/secondary in other words i have it as ford set it for a 83 manual 2.0l sierra and this works Ok for me

By the time a fuse blows the semi conductors in the electroincs of the ECU are well dead. fuses blow in 10s to 100s of milliseconds. semiconductors blow in microseconds (or faster), there are far better ways of protecting ECUs than fuses and have been for many years. The development early ECUs managed this well before they were let on the normal market. Tanker safety is something I know little about but can realise that getting it wrong will cause a serious accident. I have yet to see a car set up like this and suspect that the requirement for periodic detailed test would make it a non starter as a regulation. There is a very large diference between 60 liters in a car and 35000 liters in a tanker as a source of danger