IanS

http://www.europaspares.com/interior-parts/instruments-gauges.html first one that came to mind

My car just pased the MOT this year with the handbrake and rear brakes just above the limit. So I took the rear drums off for the first time since the build 18 years ago, The rear right wheel hydraulic cylinder had started leaking and contaminated the shoes. I got new wheel cylinders and new shoes. The new shoes have the leading shoe with a reasonable amount of friction material but the trailing shoe is very thin and I cannot get them to work very well (probably because they do not conform well to the brake drum) so I am trying to obtain a better set but no one is answering how thick the new shoes are. The problem is that these have been out of production too long to give much choice of spares.

is the frount diff OK? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Probably find that the pipes connect on the other side. Should be no problem to extend the pipes round the new master cylinder.

What size is the fuse that blows? It could be simply an inadequate fuse or it could be that the wire to the rear fog light has worn through someplace and is shorting to ground. You can check for shorts by useing a test light ( old working bulb say indicator 21W with leads to crock clips soldered on ) between the battery +ve and both connections of the rear gog light in turn with everything switched off, if the test bulb lights up for both connections then you have a short in the fog light cable. As for the speedo then most if not all sierra guages were mechanical and the cable easiest to install cable route involves a sharp bend just out of the gearbox where the inner breaks.

DOHC timing is chain driven. They do strech with age and can jump a tooth. More than a tooth (maybe 2) and you will get valve piston contact. you could check timing.

posible that sensor was picking up on balance weights (not a good idea) and these have been removed and replaced in slightly different position unfortunatly putting somthing on wheel rim to trigger pick up will mess up wheel balance

If you do not have a voltage regulator then even the correct sender & guage combination will read hot.

When engine running it is sucking air in therefore everything in the carb is below atmospheric pressure, how much below depends on where in the carb. This sucks the petrol in. When stopped the carb then becomes at atmospheric pressure and the petrol can leak untill the float chamber is empty.

you are probably coasting down hill to get vac advance past the 36 degree 3500RPM limit. But the old bob weight / vac system will go to these sort of advances I am not certain how much MPG you actually gain in these extreem points of the curve.

fuel level 41mm if this is not right then everything else is out. throttle diameter 32/36 (goes without saying) but have seen wrong chokes fitted. idel jet 45/45 main jet 130/130 air jet 165/120 emulsion f66/f66 all primary/secondary in other words i have it as ford set it for a 83 manual 2.0l sierra and this works Ok for me

By the time a fuse blows the semi conductors in the electroincs of the ECU are well dead. fuses blow in 10s to 100s of milliseconds. semiconductors blow in microseconds (or faster), there are far better ways of protecting ECUs than fuses and have been for many years. The development early ECUs managed this well before they were let on the normal market. Tanker safety is something I know little about but can realise that getting it wrong will cause a serious accident. I have yet to see a car set up like this and suspect that the requirement for periodic detailed test would make it a non starter as a regulation. There is a very large diference between 60 liters in a car and 35000 liters in a tanker as a source of danger

Fuses are always in the positive side. The battery should be connected to the chasies and engine with large cables which do not need protecting with fuses. Ford fitted a fuse (60 to 100Amp) in the battery positive but the starter does not go through that fuse it has a seperate lead direct from the battery to the starter motor. Intersetingly the alternator chargeing current does go through the big fuse which is a thin wire incorporated in the non starter battery wire.

It is normal for the oil presssure to drop at tick over. But dropping to 0 is too much. The pinto bottom end is normally bullet proof but if you really are getting fifteen thousand RPM then you are over reving by a lot. Having a T for switch and guage will not make any diferance as there is no flow. The oil light coming on when hot and at tickover is often a sign of a worn engine but could be the wrong oil. The pinto should have 20-50 grade oil.

When you fit new front brake pads be carefull to check if the calipers still clear the wheel. Guess how I found out

The Exmo had a standard ford bearing where the column goes through the bulkhead. This is fixed and could require a bit of disasembly and welding to move. To say nothing of avoiding the servo, exhaust, alternator etc. There is a steel crossbar bolted behind the dash that can be repostioned within reason to change the angle/height of the stearing wheel. I found it imposible to get the wheel both straight and where I wanted it so have put up with a slight angle for the past 18 years and have not noticed it most of the time. In the engine bay there is a shaft with UJs both ends.

Mixture screw only works at or near idle. Jets and emulsion tubes do the rest of the power curve. First thing to check is float level and that the fuel pressure is not to high.

I just fitted an extra electric pump. I use the mechanical to run the car and the electric to prime the carb. I have a T in the fuel line both before the pumps and after the pumps so that either can pump at any time. I have a push button electric switch to only run the electric pump when I want it to prime.

Have you a voltage regulator fitted? most smiths guages expect a constant 8V feed, this gets round the problem of guage moving as battery charges and lights etc sewitched on and off.

wedges or washers fit between the hub and the mount on the trailing suspension arm. So the bolt goes throught the hub then either the wedge or a stack of washers into the trailing arm.

Packing out with washers is a known cheep way of adjusting camber and toe on the sierra rear end. There is some debate on packing the individual bolts with washers verses solid wedges, my opinion is that both have problems in that the bolt heads are now not flat to the hub surface but the bolts are probably way over strength and I have not come across any drive shafts coming off as a result.

About 180 miles having modified the tank to allow it to take approx 30 liters full to empty. Modified fuel pickup to take from bottom of tank (fitted wide flattened end to pickup to suck down to the last 2mm of petrol) Modified filler pipe to allow air out to top of tank ( drilled holes in side of filler pipe just below top of tank) I appear to get in the upper 20s MPG and carry a spare gallon. The tank supplied with the kit should take 40 liters but being long and thin the last 3 to 5 liters are unuseable and it is imposible to actually fill.

I have no holes in the bonnet and do not have it proped up Viscous fan was too far from rad to have major efect. Fitted electric fan tight to the rad and it pulls enought air to keep temp OK at all times. deleted the Viscous fan as not working and did not want to make shroud that might not have worked. Standard 2.0 pinto with standard DGAS carb, there is reasonable area for hot air to exit down the sides of the engine and back through the transmision tunnel and past the diff. Have you ever looked at a modern cars rad instalation end wondered where the air went, it does not take a lot or area if the fan is tight to the rad.

Fuel guage. If you have a ford sender then some also had a switch that connected to a fuel low light. They sometimes also had a second scale to provide input to a not very acurate mpg display. Check the sender conectrions.

Looks like a suppressor to cut noise to the radio