IanS

Pitts S2 and hanger attached to house. You must like aerobatics, lucky you

Try parking on a slope and chances are that there is a wheel cylinder above the master cylinder resevoir. Happens all the time in hilley areas and no residual pressure valves fitted to 99.9% of cars. We rely on friction in the seals to prevent drainback.

diseasle interseting new word Diesel will not kill the cat but might not give many horses in a petrol engine Ian

This frame looks like the one I have. In the old pre SVA days the channel was sharp edged and the gap between the bottom frame and scuttle was filled with sikaflex.

I was under the impression that the restrictor was to prevent fueling with leaded petrol. As this is no longer on sale then the restrictor is no longer needed.

In a similar case I drilled out the plastic and glued in some microbore copper pipe. 4mm outer copper pipe 2.5mm bore. pipe was from scrap bin at work. Araldite worked very well. vehical ran for 6 years until scrapped for body rot.

I have had a norbar one for 35 years, and always release the tension. Changed employers a couple of years ago and the new employer has alibrated torque tested sp I tested my wrench and found it to approx 3% high at all the settings I tested. I guess that it was made a bit high to allow for some wear

My best guess as to why it is fitted is that the disy is a standard item from an old design engine that has been modified by locking everything out. Leaving the vac advance mechanism in is simpler than making a special bit to keep the crud out.

Vac advance is an economy function on traditional ignition systems. A 2D map with engine speed verses throttle opening does the same job in the electronics. If the distributor is truely locked out then the vac will do nothing.

Looking at snappers diagram, has anyone looked at the bedford rascal minivan, the 2 UJs must bend about 20 degrees.

If it is a bad connection then it will get hot when you try starting. Try the starter for a couple of seconds and then feel the battery connections, if one is hot then there is the problem. Then try starting and feel the connection to the starter......... Last try the earth connection. If you are fast you can posibly feel all four connections before the culprit has a chance to cool down. The other problem I once had that was similar was when the starter mounting bolts came loose.

in the series 2 exmo video the code for the blue paint was given near the end. Unfortunatly I no longer can view VHS. It may be one of the videos on u tube

All electric motors can act as generators. The problem of the speedo dropping to zero is probably the fan motor start up current dropping the supply voltage to the speedo, if the speedo then recovers you could grin and bear it. If it is a problem then the fan relay will need some rewireing. I would suggest that the relay coil comes from a switched supply (this will switch the fan off with the ignition) and the power for the fan comes direct through a fuse from the battery with the fan negative going direct back to the battery this should isolate all glitches from the speedo supply.

The prop shaft is after the gearbox so it does not matter which gear you are in the prop shaft revs only depend on the car speed. So putting in an effective circumferance of 503 should work.

If it is a mapped system then no but distributor would probably need to have all its advance locked. If it is the contactless system with a seperate amplifier then it is no different than a contact system as advance is provided in the distributor.

Distributor vacuum is there as a fuel economy measure. How many miles are you going to be doing at cruise? If the answer is low then just do not connect. Through a plenum half works as the max vacuum does not get generated better than nothing for MPG but could be improved by a mapped ignition.

I used those high lifter things in my 4x4 days. Good for getting out of the *bleep* if ftted with a good foot and used with propper tracks. BUT getting under the beast resting on 4 off them................ Well your brass balls beat mine 1000:1

could be worse. I remember refitting the starter after replaceing the recoil spring (shows how long ago) and driving off. A bit later bang and the floor jumped a bit but car still drives OK and no unusuall sounds. A second Bang bump and still sounds OK. Petrol low so refuelled and would not start. The starter bolts had fallen out. I had put the back in finger tight, the neighbour had asked some question, I helped and forgot to go back to tighten. BUGGER

The relay coil will need to be earthed Normally this will be 85 86 will normally go to the switch. The fact that every terminal but the output gets power makes me think that 85 is not earthed.

cynic in me says that red light cameras save lives. Speed cameras bring in the cash. Guess which one the powers that be support?

are you sure that the squeal is from the rear? My experiance is that discs squeal and drums rarely do.

I am always interested in what people modify thier cars too

Need a bit more info. Do you mean that on switch on the needle moved to 11V and stayed there when switched off? If so the meter has been damaged. If on switch on it moves to 11V and drops back to 0 when switched off then you have a bad connection or a slightly flat battery. To check that you realy have switched off disconnect the battery and if the reading is still 11V then the meter is probably damaged.

I Think that the 5 series is wider than the 3 series. So your rear axle is wider and might make it very hard to get the rubber under the existing wheel arches. How about extending the arches out instead?

Yes the sender needs an earth connection