sj-bradley

You've gotta love this club ... Many thanks, Simon.

Hi, Bob Fry of Florin Metal Works has offered to pony express this to me, so yes please. It may be on the Stoneleigh show though if you don't mind hanging on to it for me? Many thanks, Simon.

Sounds good, but may be too far for me. Where is North Hampshire? Thanks, Simon.

Yes, most certainly ditch those Neon type screwdrivers. You are intentionally putting yourself at risk with those. They are unreliable and dangerous. All that is between you and mains supply is a tiny gas discharge lamp and dodgy resistor of unknown quality. Mains can certainly arc around these and could give you a fatal shock. If you are unsure about electrics, please don't mess with it, it has a nasty bite ... Simon.

The price (whatever colour) is £30 for the pair of covers and £6 to cover postage, packing, paypal etc. If you want to gift the payment through paypal, I can deduct £1. I am currently making a modification to the originals as you can see here. New covers will not be ready for about 2 weeks. I am hoping they will be sooner though. No payments required until they ready. I will let you know when. (The hole in the larger one will also be filled in) Simon.

It's a gel coat, not paint. The pot I have is just called Golden Yellow. You can find it on this page http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/c-644-polyester-bs-and-standard-colour-ranges.aspx They also do many other colours. Simon.

Have you also checked this page? https://github.com/colinbourassa/memsgauge I suppose you have also been here :- http://alum.wpi.edu/~colinb/mems_interface.html Simon.

(I slept since then and forgot it was you ... ) I think you've got it the wrong way round. The engine will start in open loop mode until the engine temperature is high enough and then the closed loop mode is active which uses the lambda output to affect the engine one way or another. If the lambda stays put, it may fall back to open loop mode. Closed loop just means that the feedback loop from the sensor is closed, i.e the information is returned back to ECU which affects the exhaust which affects the sensor etc. Open loop just mean the ECU is having a best guess and not checking the lambda. Almost a limp home mode. Simon.

The lamps that are fitted should have their voltage rating on them. Check to make sure they are not 12 volt types. Simon.

What colour would you like ? Here's an example. I am making some modifications to the original parts, smoothing out some areas and filling in some others. I'll leave all the holes filled in for you to cut out as desired. Not everyone wants column switches for example. So far I have colours in Orange, Yellow, Kawasaki Green, British Racing Green, White and of course Black.

I'd overheard a comment from another hoodie about the exhaust being "too" free flowing and when he had blocked off one of the outlet pipes and left just the one, the back pressure made the lambda sensor start working correctly. Apparently, it needs a bit more back pressure to keep the exhaust hanging around the lambda long enough for it to read correctly. I wonder if you could baffle your exhaust somehow and see if it makes a change? Simon.

What did you use to write the software program? Looks interesting. Simon.

As soon as I saw the title on the page started me laughing ...

Of course you could go overkill ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo That seems to be solid core anyway which we don't use. Neat though. Simon.

The trick to soldering well is having clean a soldering iron tip and clean wire. Don't leave the tip too long as the flux residue will burn off and spoil the job. Best to practice on some offcuts first. You'll quickly get the hand of it. Note though, do NOT breath in the fumes. They ain't good for you I usually find myself slowly breathing out while making joints as it helps blow away these fumes. Simon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JinpVA6p8Mo Who ya gonna call ... Simon.

A word of warning about clamp ammeters. Most of them are for AC only and would NOT display the correct reading (if any) You need a DC clamp ammeter as the majority of circuits in the car will be DC only. (AC - alternating current like in a house etc there is no "+ve" as such, DC - Direct current between +ve and -ve like a battery etc) Simon.

Should be there this time. Simon.

Once you get the hang of soldering, it's a better joint. Twist the wires together first. Strip about 3/4" from each and twist in line (don't make a V joint) and remember to put the heat shrink on FIRST (Even I forget this sometimes ) Tip to soldering. Make sure that the iron is up to temperature and that you wipe clean the tip (a wet sponge quickly swiped is enough) and have a bright silver coloured tip. Apply just a touch of solder to the iron which assists in heat transfer. Now apply the iron to the BACK of the wires and touch the solder to the FRONT of the wires. When the wires are hot enough, the solder will melt and be drawn toward the heat. I.e through the wires. Remove iron and do not wiggle the joint until is has cooled and solidified or else you risk a dry joint which looks dull grey. It should look shiny when finished. Slide the heat shrink on and use a heat gun on it to shrink it. If you try the soldering iron to shrink it, you run the risk of melting the wrap or burning it. Don't apply too much solder or else it will wick along the wires making a longer stiff section which can fail later. Don't make joints around corners but make sure the join is as vibration free as possible. Saying all this, these joints will last the life of the car and more. Scotch blocks - NO ! Simon. Edit - Also make sure that there are no bits of wire sticking out once soldered and the joint is smooth (you can use pliers to crush these if you're careful) as these will punch through the heat shrink if you don't remove them first.

Bump this - Still for sale. Simon.

Signed. It's currently at 12,766 signatories.

I'll ask my brother in law if he is still in contact with the sparkys he knows. Will know by tomorrow. Simon.

Pop me down as possible as well. Even if to just kick the tyres ... Simon.

That's okay. PM sent with details. Simon.

That I couldn't tell you just by looking at these gauges. If you can pop them round, I could take a look at their inner workings and have a better idea as well as being able to test them on the bench. Simon.