knights_templar

agree with Ian & Carol, roll pins may be belt and braces :-)

http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tuning/jetting_your_carb.htm any use?

well that depends if it goes wrong I assume nelmo has paid for the loom already, he mentions he is going to cut the plugs off so assumes he already has that bit. so he goes ahead, connects the battery and something doesn't work. for what ever reason, manufacture or any other, can he then go back to the supplier of the loom when the correct plugs are available? Interesting question.

would that not void any warranty on the loom?

interesting, IVA says fog light must work with main OR dip, does this mean that IVA and MOT are two different standards? probably :-)

would have though GBS would supply matching plug/socket

filter should be before anything with moving parts, such as the pump. filters do run partially full, if there was a fault you would have running problems at high fuel demand. provided carb is fitted at correct orientation the carb can not drain back down the fuel system, the needle jet is above fuel level, and therefore can not syphon out. The fuel in the float chambers will evaporate over time, as the float chamber is vented to atmosphere, will just require a little more cranking for the pump to re prime the system. unless you have a running problem, or there is something we are not aware of, you may be looking for something that is not an issue.

topic http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=43372 was a long discussion about possible joys of the mono's. As far as IVA, opinion of the tester, comes under General construction, possible a few bolts and some angle is enough. I have no idea

I agree with the Duck, it isn't that they wont get through, if it meets the test criteria it will pass. Unfortunately the mono's can require a little more "input".

must agree with florin, you need to look at a little more than steering column.

borrow the Zero idea, bond them on.

Again, without trying to cause a long debate but still respond to a genuine question. Maybe I should have been clearer, It is nothing to do with the efficiency of drums over discs on all cars, just the difference of rear drums over rear discs on a Zero, and probably a lot of kit cars. The brakes used generally come from a donor vehicle, in this case a relatively heavy and servo assisted sierra, the brakes are balanced for that set up, we now put them into a 600Kg car (approx) and remove the servo, on disc/disc the efficiency balance will remain about the same, on a disc drum set-up, we have removed the servo, but have not removed a characteristic of drum brakes. I was taught was "self servo action", but called "self-applying" on this Wiki site for those interested. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake http://www.carhistory4u.com/the-last-100-years/parts-of-the-car/brakeshas a bit of history about brakes. I am sure disc and drum debate will rage on, but drums will do exactly the same as discs by way of stopping you if designed for the right application. However each has their advantages and disadvantages. Discs get rid of heat better (but can still fade if outside design), they are open to the elements, (discs corrode and brake dust gets on our nice shiny wheels) they also allow the handbrake to come off (another story), and contrary to the prices charged are cheaper to manufacture and fit in production, (could that be why they are fitted to basic family cars?). Drum brakes are enclosed, (less prone to contamination and deterioration), are more costly to produce, require more time to inspect (higher service charges), retain heat, can fade if outside design capabilities. So are discs better than drums? or are we sold that discs are better than drums? No opinion really, will put on tin hat and retire to my dugout, expect incoming :-)

At the risk of more contreversy, recently seen on here, a correction to the above, drum brakes on the rear of a zero are higher efficiency than discs, but within limits provided you use standard brakes, bias and or brake limiters, are very much frowned on at IVA, you can get them through by locking them, but as standard brakes meet balance for road use, it's just more complication you don't need.

depends on now its switched and wired

The build manual, a mystical beast, a bit like the unicorn. I agree with RichardL, think he has hit the nail on the head, someone dedicated to the task, not in their spare time as with their technical forum.

unfortunately out of date

ECU led will go red if it loses crack sensor signal, might be worth watching that when it cuts out, both ignition and fuel pumps will switch off.

you can bypass the starter, just more wiring

Volt meters are wired in parallel so only need low amp wiring. There are two types of Amp meter, one needs wiring in series, that requires high current battery cable, the other type is inductive, and will require a pick up coil around the main feed cable. Although there is little amp usage whilst running, don’t forget cranking amps taken by the starter.

would say the plug that is easiest is the one with four wires, on the back of the left switch. brown, brown yellow, brown black and another I cant remember. brown black is the feed from the light switch however this wire is no use if your headlights are earth switch.

Looks like an open invite, http://www.greatbritishsportscars.co.uk/events-2/ Run by http://www.javelintrackdays.co.uk/trackday/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=1250itemid=11 Open to everyone.

Accelerator pumps?

The trim locks between the rear panel and the boot surround, no need to glue. From picture the surround is not ready to fit, temp assemble without trim, then insert trim before final fix

with an engine after 1995, of no real benefit

sorry, the rolling eyes were meant to indicate sarcasm, may not have been that clear. thought the speed limit bit would have clarified.