knights_templar

type approval link was interesting reading. this statement stood out for me "The CE mark is the manufacturer's declaration that the system/assembly meets the MINIMUM safety requirements of all the Directives (laws) applicable to it, and of itself, does not signify any Third Party involvement in the design or testing of a system/assembly" So I can say an ECU meets all the laws applicable, are there any for an ECU? and is therefore typed approved, stick CE on it and no one need check that it does meet anything? Interesting. Type approval, the type Caterham has on some models, is for the entire vehicle not just a component, all of one type must be the same and provable that they are all the same. Caterham still have some of their vehicles IVA'd.

Not sure what you mean by "type approval", approved by whom, to do what? DVLA/VOSA only require that the engine conforms to the emission regulations for that age of engine, how it is achieved is of no interest to them. Megasquirt is an open source DIY ECU, you can buy it in kit form, and there is lots of amateur support. the current site is http://www.megasquirt.co.uk/although there are some copies out there http://www.msextra.com/doc/clones/index.html and there appears to be some battles over firmware licences, but the hardware appears to work, however you get what you pay for. I agree with the above, some of the software can be baffling, most tuners work best with what they know, so their advice may well be tainted. Me I prefer Emerald, because it works, for me, Omex and Megasquirt also work, but I find their software a bit, odd, but that is probably because I don’t deal with it day to day. There is a French ECU that appears to work well, and the software was not bad, it was in English, when I found the setting, and behaved well when tuning a car at IVA. But to be fair the tuner studio has always worked to. You pay your money, and take your choice, I would go with the closeness of a reputable tuner for your chosen ECU.

Linux strikes again

yes have seen that on occasions, instead of selecting file and clicking open, double click the file instead. has always got around the problem when it has happened.

there are four brackets, two for lowered floor, two for standard, GT and standard. pictures on kit spares all look the same though so no help

runs fine through wine https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11598108/Screenshot%20from%202016-08-30%2023-49-21.png https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11598108/Screenshot%20from%202016-08-31%2000-05-55.png

found this, you will have to check its right for your setup https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11598108/motronic2.5_pinout.pdf

yes I will, but I cant find it on the Maplin site now, I will have a look when I get to work.

Unfortunately you have encountered a common problem with kit cars. Electrics why? because if something starts with some sort of standard, its pretty certain it will be modified, changed, altered or bodged. A techy must then try and make some sort of sense of it, without a wiring diagram, any knowledge of the original base car, no idea what the builder was thinking and no way of plunging in a diagnostic box. not much help I know, but it may in-fact be quite simple. trigger pulse from ECU to coil can be tested with a simple tester from Maplin, standard Avos are no good the pulse is to short. No pulse, we need to go into loom checking, same tool will test live and ground to coil. Pulse, but no spark, coil pack test, there is a simple test of primary and secondary windings. some coil packs use a built in amplifier, which often needs a 5volt positive or negative pulse to trigger so difficult to test without a special tool. Before condemning the ECU, which are actually quite robust things, the wiring need to be checked, especially since we know there has been wire damage, difficult without a wiring diagram but still possible, get the ECU pin outs with a bit of googling or a manual for a car fitted with that engine. check inputs and outputs go where they should, a simple continuity test will do this, and that the ECU has Ignition, live and earth where it should. This is time consuming so therefore costly. There will be some other circuits to check, for example the ECU will switch a power relay to feed coils, it might be switched on by the ECU but may have no power itself Now your garage may have already done this and come to the conclusion the ECU is a problem, A more precise explanation of their reasoning and tests done would be an advantage. But my guess at a £125 labour fee is that they have spent a couple of hours on it, may be wrong but it would be low for above work. Unfortunately too far away to offer help myself, and the only kit place I could think off that may have offered help is about to loose their electrical guy.

5 point harness ? maybe

Temp will depend on fan controller setting, ECU or other. Most are set for 98 deg on 94 deg off, on a zetec. The will be small differences if the gauge and temp senors are at different locations. The gauge transmitter can be effected by resistance problems, so if you have ECU check actual reading in that.

any use ? http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Injector-Flows&A=0102

If your magnets are on the prop you will have to factor in diff ratio

second RichardL, seal keeps grease in bearing and dirt out.

Are we saying ali2992 diff can move under torque?

Have you checked that the diff is secur, mazda mount require both front bolts or it will lift under torque, the sensor is fixed and can not be effected by torque

It works, for a while at least so there can't be to much wrong with the basic circuit, so the problem must lie with the bits not changed. The modual that is failing is just a switch, that is turned on and off when it sees a signal from a trigger switch linked to the mechanical operation of the engine, such as a hall effect, or optical sensor. It's failure can be caused by rouge HT, but also by a to higher current through the modual. Check the modual manufacturers spec, it will be designed to switch 12volt, have you a 9volt ballast resistor coil, or the ballast resistor still in circuit that will cause a higher current (amps) that may burn out the module, also make sure the connections are good which can give the same problem

This may help http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Intake%20Runner%20Length.html

Just a thought, where are the warning lights?

I would check your research, the plugs or plugs + fly leads are available. looking at the gauges on your link, they have all the senders, and a time clock, would need to try fuel sender in tank but it should be be made to fit, they are bigger gauges than the Kit Spares ones, but I have no idea of their quality, prehaps others have tried them.

Mick, must agree, simple is always best, but the Zero calliper IS upside down, so you have to turn them first before anything will bleed them, fancy tool or your method.

But don't know if the adjuster requires hydraulics, found they tend to work on the bench, but that may be flook

Big_jim asked earlier if they are Sierra calipers. I may have missed your answer, can you confirm this?

Yes, Henry's law, did not consider that the eezbleed was able to work at the pressures, or generate the temperatures where Henry's law would have an effect with brake fluid. Just interested where it was documented it was.

interesting theory, can you post where the physics comes from, always been told to keep air, that tends to contain water, away from brake fluid, which is Hygroscopic.