Joel

Ok, tried with a LED and the switch is instant. So presumably that's working ok, There's power to the reed switch. Magnet clearance is good. Can't get a peep out of the speedo though! Any ideas where to start??? The speedo does have power, in the sense that it illuminates and there's a digital odometer, but there's no life from the actual needle. Cheers.

I'm interested in the locking nuts if they're still available?

Will do. Thanks.

I'm trying to test the operation of a magnetic speedo reed switch by rigging it up with a lamp in the line. The lamp illumiates when you pass the sensor past a magnet, but then stays illumiated for a variable amount of time afterwards (several seconds usually). Does anyone know if this is normal or should it switch on and off much quicker than that? Cheers.

We dropped down to a 195/65 in the end, which gave around 10mm gap to the spring cup, with a 1" spacer. Cheers.

Just out of interest, what do people think is a safe gap between the top inner wall of a tyre and anything else? I know on my 2B the front cycle wing brackets are probably no more than 10mm away from the tyre, and there's no evidence of rubbing, but that's quite a stiff low profile tyre - these are very tall 215/70/R15's.

Hmmm. Thanks for the opinions so far. Think I may try dropping down to a 205 tyre first, then it may have to be a coilover. There's not much room for manouver with spacers and offsets.

Yes, that did concern me a bit. Coilovers would certainly solve the problem, but they'd look totally out of place on a 1930's style Model A Ford

(Not Robin Hood) I'm having tyre clearance issues on the front of the Badsworth - using the standard Sierra front spring/dampers, the tyre is touching the spring cup (see pic), and this is with a 1" wheel spacer fitted. Changing the wheel isn't an option. I can drop down a tyre size and there's room for another 5mm or so of spacer (before the tyre will start poking out from under the wheel arch), but the biggest effect would be to chop the outside edge off the spring cup. So, is it safe to do so or will that seriously compromise the strength and integrity of it all? Cheers.

Just as a general note, I think the missing parts/customer satisfaction issue comes down to whether it's they who point out there's parts missing from the get-go, or whether it's you who have to point it out to them.

Agree with the above. Whilst the air ambulance is undoubtedly a worthy cause, and those who've put effort in to raise money should be congratulated, the Rhocar forums for many are a bit of light relief at the end of the working day and we don't want to come on here to be pestered or made to feel guilty about not doing enough.

Thanks for the info. I'll happily pay £16 a day, not because I can easily afford it but because I can't afford for anything to happen to my car! I was under the impression Bristol was the car crime capitol of the UK, but perhaps I've been watching too many of those cops with cameras shows.

Can anyone recommend a decent 24hr car park in Bristol, where my car's most likely to remain in one piece? I'll be visiting the Bond Street area north of the centre, so I'm looking at St James Barton NCP or Broadmead NCP as the most convenient. Don't mind paying a little extra for peace of mind. Cheers.

Either outcome is preferable to the reaction (or lack of) you usually get when you tell people you've got a Robin Hood!

Don't know how many people will have seen this, it's the latest Donkervoort D8. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I think it's fabulous . The back end in particular has me nursing a semi!

Very nice Jess, although you cheated ...I made my own...

Is that immaculately painted engine on the bench ready to go in?

Just to add some balance, I've always found the staff at the Coventry store to be knowledgeable and helpful

Currently 4 viewers of this topic, all mesmerized by Shaft's avatar!!

Nice. There isn't a Jenvey shop on the Beijing Road is there???

Ok, attached picture is starting, charging and ignition for pre-87 models. Not the clearest picture but ask if something's missing. 2.0 OHC in bottom left corner. Item Numbers: 1 - Alternator 3 - Auto Trans Inhibitor Switch 4 - Auto Trans Relay 5 - Auto Trans Relay (Electric Aerial) 9 - Battery 13 - Carburetor Stepper Motor 23 - Coolant Temp Sensor 25 - Distributor 31 - Econolight Switch (Amber) 32 - Econolight Switch (Red) 33 - Electric Choke 42 - Electronic Ignition Module 44 - ESC I Ignition Module 45 - ESC II Ignition Module 58 - Fuel Sender 59 - Fuel Shut Off Valve 62 - Handbrake Warning Switch 79 - Ignition Coil 80 - Ignition Relay 81 - Ignition Switch 82 - Instrument Cluster 95 - Low Brake Fluid Sender 100 - Manifold Heater 101 - Manifold Heater Relay 104 - Power Hold Relay 103 - Oil Pressure Switch 107 - Spark Plugs 109 - Starter Motor HTH

I'm happy to be told this won't work, but I picked up a small filter from Halfords (approx 80mm long by 40-50mm dia) which I believe is for a Rover 420i, that I'd intended to use as a pre-pump filter. It has screw-in connectors (not supplied), in something like a M12x1.5 thread size, which shouldn't be too hard to find a 10mm connector for??

Just to clarify, are you using an original Sierra loom? If so, can you provide a bit more information - do you know what model year it's from, and what's your ignition setup? ESCII? ESCIV? Twin Choke Carb? Fuel Injection? Cheers.

I'm in the process of changing my car to run fuel injection, so I've been asking the same questions... Further to what Dave has already said, most injection pumps are gravity fed so if you only use one pump fed directly from the tank (as opposed to an external swirl pot), then the pump needs to be as close to level with the tank outlet as you can reasonably get it. Also just to clarify on one point - by 'braided hose' I think Dave means stainless steel braid, as opposed to cotton braid which is only suitable for low pressure (carb) applications. I'm not sure how the law stands for IVA these days regarding stainless braided fuel hose, but you may find it needs to be correctly marked as 'fuel hose', in which case you'll need high pressure rubber hose. Don't quote me on that though - stainless hose might be fine. Finally don't forget a filter. I'm fitting a small pre-pump filter to protect the pump from any crud in the tank, but may also fit a larger filter in the engine bay. HTH