Joel

Can anyone point me in the direction of the guidance notes for completing an IVA application form? I've got the form itself downloaded from the VOSA site, but so far I assume you only get the guidance notes with a 'real' printed version? Failing that, if anyone's bored enough to go through a few with me... Q3d. Date of Manufacture? - is this when you bought the kit, or when you completed the build? Q3e. Has the vehicle been previously registered? - does this mean the donor? Q3s. Maximum design road speed? - it says see note 3 in guidance notes? Q3t. Maximum engine power & engine speed? - same as above Q3u. Design Weights? - anyone fancy a crack at guessing the weight of a Model A replica? This isn't for a Robin Hood, if you hadn't already gathered, but it does use a Sierra donor so some aspects of the form-filling will be the same. Cheers

I wonder if this also applies to rear seats? (for those of us silly enough to be building wedding cars)

Doh! It's obvious when you think about it - the existing temp sender in the head is only for the gauge reading, which only needs to tell me when it's about to boil over. So that one can go in pretty much any hose, and the one for the ecu can go in the head! Sorted.

Without meaning to hijack the thread, can someone give me an idiots guide to injector impedence? What difference does high and low make?

Hmmm.....I might need a rethink on this one. Thanks anyway.

Does the bottom rad hose on a pinto have a constant flow of water, or does this part of the system only come into play once the thermostat has opened? I want to put a water temperature sender in there for my ecu, but it won't do much good if it's reading cold till the stat opens. In case you're wondering, the top hose is already crowded with sensors for the fan control. Cheers.

Ok, tried with a LED and the switch is instant. So presumably that's working ok, There's power to the reed switch. Magnet clearance is good. Can't get a peep out of the speedo though! Any ideas where to start??? The speedo does have power, in the sense that it illuminates and there's a digital odometer, but there's no life from the actual needle. Cheers.

I'm interested in the locking nuts if they're still available?

Will do. Thanks.

I'm trying to test the operation of a magnetic speedo reed switch by rigging it up with a lamp in the line. The lamp illumiates when you pass the sensor past a magnet, but then stays illumiated for a variable amount of time afterwards (several seconds usually). Does anyone know if this is normal or should it switch on and off much quicker than that? Cheers.

We dropped down to a 195/65 in the end, which gave around 10mm gap to the spring cup, with a 1" spacer. Cheers.

Just out of interest, what do people think is a safe gap between the top inner wall of a tyre and anything else? I know on my 2B the front cycle wing brackets are probably no more than 10mm away from the tyre, and there's no evidence of rubbing, but that's quite a stiff low profile tyre - these are very tall 215/70/R15's.

Hmmm. Thanks for the opinions so far. Think I may try dropping down to a 205 tyre first, then it may have to be a coilover. There's not much room for manouver with spacers and offsets.

Yes, that did concern me a bit. Coilovers would certainly solve the problem, but they'd look totally out of place on a 1930's style Model A Ford

(Not Robin Hood) I'm having tyre clearance issues on the front of the Badsworth - using the standard Sierra front spring/dampers, the tyre is touching the spring cup (see pic), and this is with a 1" wheel spacer fitted. Changing the wheel isn't an option. I can drop down a tyre size and there's room for another 5mm or so of spacer (before the tyre will start poking out from under the wheel arch), but the biggest effect would be to chop the outside edge off the spring cup. So, is it safe to do so or will that seriously compromise the strength and integrity of it all? Cheers.

Just as a general note, I think the missing parts/customer satisfaction issue comes down to whether it's they who point out there's parts missing from the get-go, or whether it's you who have to point it out to them.

Agree with the above. Whilst the air ambulance is undoubtedly a worthy cause, and those who've put effort in to raise money should be congratulated, the Rhocar forums for many are a bit of light relief at the end of the working day and we don't want to come on here to be pestered or made to feel guilty about not doing enough.

Thanks for the info. I'll happily pay £16 a day, not because I can easily afford it but because I can't afford for anything to happen to my car! I was under the impression Bristol was the car crime capitol of the UK, but perhaps I've been watching too many of those cops with cameras shows.

Can anyone recommend a decent 24hr car park in Bristol, where my car's most likely to remain in one piece? I'll be visiting the Bond Street area north of the centre, so I'm looking at St James Barton NCP or Broadmead NCP as the most convenient. Don't mind paying a little extra for peace of mind. Cheers.

Either outcome is preferable to the reaction (or lack of) you usually get when you tell people you've got a Robin Hood!

Don't know how many people will have seen this, it's the latest Donkervoort D8. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I think it's fabulous . The back end in particular has me nursing a semi!

Very nice Jess, although you cheated ...I made my own...

Is that immaculately painted engine on the bench ready to go in?

Just to add some balance, I've always found the staff at the Coventry store to be knowledgeable and helpful

Currently 4 viewers of this topic, all mesmerized by Shaft's avatar!!