harvs

Hi John All those items (temp, fuel and backlights) are on the right hand side - ie the left hand side when looking from the back of the cluster. I'd guess that maybe the connector has come loose / is not making a proper connection? (The one which you had to use silicone sealant to fix it).

Yep, 2gether insurance for me too. £110 for 2k miles, parts only fully comp £8k guaranteed value as requested. Actual insurance is from Liverpool Victoria

Hi Jan - it's interesting you should say that. My superspec develops a vibration at around 65mph. I put it down (from help on here!) to the fact I hadn't had my wheels balanced. I've now had them balanced, and there's still the vibration (although not as much). I've had it up on axle stands tonight, with the wifee running it to 65mph upwards (she didn't like it!) so I could have a look around to see if I could trace it. The sound did appear to be more from the centre of the car (near gearbox) rather than the back end. Is it a known problem the vibrations at this speed? Cheers Harvs

Hi All Justin and myself are meeting up at Ferrybridge Services M62 @ 9:30am. Anyone else is welcome to join us! Think Grizzly is heading down too, so maybe meet up as well... Cheers Harvs

2gether insurance for me. £110 for 2k miles, parts only fully comp. Actual insurance is from Liverpool Victoria

There's some interesting stuff on the topic here

Hi. There's a list of part numbers on the NW Hoodies' site here. The top ball joint is listed at the bottom. Good luck getting a replacement and getting back on the road

I got stopped by the police on the way back from my IVA at Chadderton. Got directed to a car park where they had a few boy racers pulled over and a low loader ready to take someone's car away. Had a similar conversation - no reg, no tax, no mot etc. Luckily I had my IVA booking confirmation and my insurance certificate with me. The copper (big guy with motor bike) looked very sceptical, but he phoned it in and came back after 5 minutes and said I was free to go. After that they loosened up and asked my a bit about the car etc. Sounds like you had an eventful day - at least it's sure to be a smoother ride next time

Hi I used a series of cable ties linked together to form two hoops which go all the way around the gearbox. It's not very pretty, but it's not going to fall out!

Yep - you need a reversing gear and light now for IVA. Just looking at the pipe lagging on the front suspension - is this waterproof? Just thinking if the examiner might view this as temporary rather than a permanent fixing??

Found this link which explains one way of doing the 'bolt' method...

Thanks Grizzly Using washers sounds like an interesting idea. As you say, it'll allow adjustment to both camber and toe-in. Plus, you can keep adjusting them if required until it's set up right. I'll get my calculator out and brush up on my trigonometry! Cheers Harvs

Thanks for the responses guys. For clarity, is it toe-in or negative camber that I need to correct to fix the jiggle? Or both? If both, is it possible to get wedges that fix both issues? Cheers

Hi I've got the standard zeemeride shocks on my superspec. When one of the back wheels goes over a pothole / bump the car seems jiggle - with what feels like a sideways movement. (obviously going over a bump, the car's going to move, but I'd expect to feel an up & down movement at the side of the pothole - not the whole car twisting left & right...) I've been reading that quite a few people fit camber wedges to reduce the amount of negative camber. Just wondered if this is likely to improve the 'jiggle' I'm getting, or if I should be looking at some other cause? Cheers Harvs

Ours is on top of some uneven paving slabs. I used some decking on it's side - attached the greenhouse to this, and then attached the decking to the slaps. Drilling the slabs was fine. Benefit of this is that the green house is fitted to a flat surface an that it raises it so that I can stand up properly in it!

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess from my hoody experience so far I should have known it wouldn't be straight forwards! Think I'll give a stilson a go. If there's not room for one I'll get the angle grinder out (to make a tool, not to grind them off )

Hi Sharky Sorry to jump in on this thread, but I just wanted to say thanks for the explanation on stainless / aluminium and rivets. My stainless exhaust cover has just about fallen off - due to the aluminium rivets failing. Now I know why they corroded

Hi I want to lower the rear suspension a little on my superspec (after I've added a sump guard!). The back of the car feels pretty hard going over bumps (the front feels OK) and it looks to sit a little high too. So hopefully lowering it a bit will make it a little smoother. I've got zeemeride shocks at the minute. I know - I should really replace them... but I'd have to fav around fabricating new fixings etc and I want to enjoy the car over the summer Anyway, I measured the internal diameter of the springs and they looked to be 1.9 inch, so I bought a 1.9 inch C spanner. But it doesn't seem to fit. Can anyone confirm what spanner I need before I go and waste any more £? Cheers Harvs

Hi Al It's a long time since I did mine, but think there should be a lambda wiring plug on the engine loom. This is a different fit to the plug from the lambda sensor, so you'll need to chop both plugs off, then join up the wires: Sensor - Engine loom plug White - Black White - Brown/Blue Grey - Green Black - Grey There were some additional instructions which followed from Robin Hood for if you had a different sensor (ie 2 blacks, 1 white, 1 blue). There's also a comment about if the sensor was from Fuelparts (in a blue box) then this has to have an extremely good earth. Reading through the posts on this forum, there have been a few issues with the lambda sensor and emissions problems at the SVA / IVA. I have the sensor with the 2 White, 1 Grey and 1 Black wires, and don't think it's a fuelparts one (wasn't in a blue box!). I wired it up as above and it passed the emissions test at IVA fine. The MEMS ECU apparently bases the fuelling / timing / emissions etc on an average of the previous 200 miles (I'm not exactly sure how the ECU knows how far the car has been drive though!). So it may take the ECU a while to settle down, and the performance / emissions could be slightly off while it's sorting itself out. I had a lengthy drive to the IVA so I think that helped (there was quite a bit of backfiring initially). Also, it's good to get a good seal on the exhaust system to avoid any air getting sucked into the pipes which may throw off the emissions test. I used some exhaust paste on the lambda sensor just to make sure. Hope this helps Harvs

Hi Lee Please could you put me down as a tentative. I didn't realise it was the week after Newark, so will need to confirm a bit nearer the time, if that's OK. Cheers Harvs

Got mine from a 'needle work' type shop. Don't think it was anything special, but it is a couple of inches wide and I used it the full length of the tunnel and a piece the full width at the front (with a support made to fit across the tunnel tubes). With this large area of velcro, it doesn't move much!

I've used velcro too. Works really well - no visible fixings and really strong. It's actually quite hard to prise the tunnel top off!

My superspec brake light kept sticking. I nearly couldn't return home from the IVA test as the brake lights wouldn't come on. Luckily the examiner had a can of WD40 which managed to improve it a little. Got home and took the switch apart. Did a bit of fileing and it works fine now. Glad you've got yours sorted.

I guess that would be a problem. From the IVA manual.... The 700mm runs from a reference point 53mm above the area of the seat where you sit to the top of the headrest. Unless you're talking about bucket seats where the heads rests are an integral part of the seat? Hope that helps? Harvs

Great, thanks Guys I think they look fine. So, I'll have a go at rustling something up. Cheers Harvs