Bob Tucker

Guys, a friend's son is doing an engineering degree & he has a project to refurbish a 3.5 Rover to running condition. He has the engine, & all the ancillaries but he cant find a dizzy for it (at student's prices!!!) The engine is either 83 or 85, & needs a female (I dont know what that describes) electronic (not points) type dizzy. Does anyone have any ideas where we might get one for him? The budget is part of the project, so he cant pay big bucks. Ta, Bob.

Did you forget the pic?

Long Marston is under threat right now. That applies to the drag racing there, I dont know if there is a circuit on the same site. https://www.shakespearecountyraceway.co.uk/

We never got them to work. It was said that the only way to get them working was to have a tool shaped like Wal Phillips.

Take whatever you have in writing to show the marshalls...... They are usually contractors drafted in for a few days work & wont know the ins & outs.

Yes I reckon I can do that. I need to get a few miles on the car (the Hood, not the Vette) as a shakedown run for my French jaunt in early July.

Why not organise our own run out along similar lines? I actually did the London to Brighton run many years back. It was a bit of a shambles really, the route they picked had others further back/forward criss crossing in tiny single lanes. & it must have been free or a nominal charge, otherwise I wouldnt have gone.

Ive just checked Rays race schedule & I'm free that day Neil. Please count me in. Cheers, Bob

Ray said many years back that he wanted a car with so much power he could never use all of it. To date, he has had 1000 bhp, 1350 bhp, and 1500bhp, and that wasnt enough. We think he might be there now.....we find out at the Pod on 19/20 May

These may be worth a call. It may not be possible to book the track(s) for our clubs sole use, but maybe a block booking would be welcome? https://nolimitstrackdays.com/uk-tracks.html Just looked a bit further....these may be bike trackdays.....I'll keep looking. Given my location Ive been to Brands, Lydden, North weald, and Croft, But I'm also willing to travel further North for a good blast.

https://www.rwyb.co.uk/rules.php

It's not a panhard rod..it's much smaller, and is in line with the propshaft front/rear, rather than lateral. Fixed at one end into a bracket, it's about 3" long, That would concern me a lot. A rod that short will be moving in a much smaller radius than the diff, putting a lot of strain on it.

TBH Paul, it could be both. The springs determine the ride height, the shock limits the speed that it compresses. Is the car bouncy? If you push down hard, it should come back up, then settle back just once at most. More indicates worn shocks. If the ride is too low, the propshaft will hit. If the shocks are worn, they will allow the spring to compress more, propshaft will hit again. What is the clearance to the road from the bodywork immediately in front of the rear wing? Personally I dont know what an early model car should be, but the 2B should be around 7". Try & find the exact model & other owners will probably supply their measurements. http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

I use the cheapest garage I can find for the tintops, but the Hood goes to a local garage which charges full price. He cant fit in it, so I sit in the car & do all the pushing, twiddling jobs. He wont pass anything dicey, but he does allow a lot of leeway for on the spot fixes. Then I go look at his latest racing sidecar outfit & we discuss how I raced a cutdown frame BSA 650 outfit (I was the passenger) with 2 magnetos and two Wal Phillips fuel injectors (nobody else has heard of them either) & he tells me how he gets his carbon fibre chassis built using an autoclave, negative pressure tank or something, has his engine built in Holland, and his latest throttle bodies and custom built ECU. Maybe thats why he has to charge full price... We both enjoy the comparisons.

Chances are its fine. I use Astra bottom balljoints in a Sierra hub too. But my balljoints are much more elongated, so maybe another series of Astra. Just found out mine are MK 1.

Just double check the taper fits exactly into the hub.....otherwise that looks fine

Dont worry about the rubber doughnut. I think I know what it might be. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-TYPES-RUBBER-COIL-SPRING-AID-SUSPENSION-ASSISTORS-CAR-TOWING-CARAVAN-TRAILER-/263314798590?var=&clk_rvr_id=1510397698199&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=twenga&utm_campaign=twenga&utm_param=eyJlcyI6MCwicyI6OTcyMDIzNywiY2kiOiIwMzIwYjEzZTBjNTFlYmJjNjJmYWMwYTViMDU5YTBiZCIsImkiOiIyNjMzMTQ3OTg1OTAiLCJ0cyI6MTUyNDY4MzUxNywidiI6Mywic28iOjE1MDAsImMiOjI2MjYxfQ%3D%3D&rmvSB=true They were often fitted to cars that towed a lot, to raise the ride height and /or stiffen the spring. It would be better if they matched both sides though!! What tyype of springs, leaf? Is the bar with track rod ends fore and aft or across the car which is a panhard rod. https://www.kamispeed.com/Whiteline-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Upper-Bushing-Van-p/wtl.w31704.htm click on the small image at the left of the page. Given that spring assisters have been fitted I suspect that someone has tried to fix this before. The ride height seems too low. could be weak springs, wrong length springs, broken/incorrect fitting points for the top or bottom of the coils. Hope thats given you a few ideas, post up what you find, look for a photo re-sizer or post to dropbox or some such.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

Hi Bob, if you search back through the forums someone posted a fix a whille ago. My advanced years prevent me remembering who or when.....off for a nap now. On chrome i have used the "photobucket hotlink fix" extension

If you have a knowledgable motor factor near you, take it off & take it to them. A good one will recognise it.

You dont need to strip the diiff to find its ratio. If it has a tag, there is a code that defines the ratio. Or just lock one of the driveshaft hubs, turn the other one 2 exact turns, and count the number of times the propshaft hub turns. Most common diffs are 3.62 and 3.92, so just over 3 &1/2, or just under 4 will provide the answer.

Not exactly a standard 2B but my experience was 4.8 to 60 measured on my brothers RACEPAK device. Vauxhall redtop, tuned to 210bhp, BGH gearbox uprated first & 2nd gear, very quick change from 1st to 2nd & almost 70 mph in second at the redline, so just one gear change needed, and TOYO 888 tyres, so no wheelspin despite not having an LSD. It weighed 750kg at SVA with a pinto, & a cast iron gearbox bellhousing. The redtop is lighter than a pinto & IIRC the ally bellhousing saved about 15 KG. Best way to measure your acceleration performance is on a dragstrip RWYB day.

My wishbone conversion uses an early Astra balljoint. The taper is identical to the Sierra hub taper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-ASTRA-Mk1-82-84-OPEL-KADETT-D-82-84-NEW-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-QSJ877-/142373020228 As Stuart say, a picture would help a lot

http://nw.rhocar.org/reardiscs.htm This should help

Is the sender located where it could be immersed in steam not water? For some reason (I'm no fizzy cyst) it registers steam as zero.