Bob Tucker

Ive had a look into your carbs, the G model was designed as an emissions model, and is substantially different internally from the regular DHLA, and designed to be tamper proof. You may be stuck with them as they are. Search for DHLA G theres some info out there, mostly suggesting replacing them. Sorry! But check the other stuff too. Good luck,

Hi Mark as youve already checked ignition, cam and valves, id start with the carbs. Compression could be better on 3, but not a real problem unless its 3 that spitting back? They have numerous gaskets and diaphragms that could have dried up over 6 years. Spitting back from a carb is most often a weak mixture. Also check for any manifold air leaks, including cracked pipes for servo, dizzy etc. This guy is a real whiz.....http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/ Also do a search here for "spitting and backfiring" its a common question.

My car passed at Gillingham first time, but I did ring several times beforehand for advice. I also helped another 5 cars get through, not all Hoods, and I found that the testers at Gillingham wanted to pass a car unless they had to fail it, whereas other places seemed determined to fail any car on the smallest thing. Big thumbs up for Gillingham testing station.

I cut a slot in the head of the coachbolt and fit that inside the car. The domed stainless nut doesnt look out of place outside the car. BTW its M8 x 55mm.

Hi Bob, I'll have a measure tomorrow. The bonnet is off so it will be pretty easy. BTW Chris. I found it was necessary to space out the bonnet from the chassis a little, by fitting 2 washers on the bolt.

You can fit the coachbolt either way round. You need to grind off the square shoulder and cut the bolt to exact length so its a very tight fit into the dome of the nut so it doesnt come undone. https://www.toolstation.com/stainless-steel-dome-nut/p94881?store=O1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAiAxeX_BRASEiwAc1QdkUnd6WHX256m4YVFRo3d4PK-_nsYIC_qGjYqXciK0_YHE2NlbHpddhoCjXMQAvD_BwE https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=stainless coach bolts

Depends where you plan to run. Most airfields are a bit easier, tracks that have been around for decades now have housing estates built near them, so limits are pretty strict. I assume Bedford Autodrome? You can download an app to measure the noise reading. & this should help with various tracks & noise limits https://www.trackdays.co.uk/calendar/cars/

Ive always used the front wishbone pivot for the front, and the spare wheel hoop at the rear. All ive ever done is a knotted loop of seat belt secured to the car with a cable tie. Scrutineering at Brands has always been happy with that.

Many thanks Martin.

Maca, where did you find the selling price? I'm interested to see what the Sunbeam S8 went for.

That looks pretty neat!

+1 for FR32 from Kent Cams

Yes. I did just that 12 years ago to fit a redtop engine, keeping the original engine mount platforms. I was concerned it may let the chassis flex, so I measured the distance carefully. Despite heavy trackday use, & driving on French cobbled streets, it hasnt moved at all.

The windscreen brackets are often fitted at a variety of rakeback angles. They were left to the builder to decide. Is the bottom of the bracket parallel to the bottom of the bonnet? You may need to re-fit the windscreen pillars. And then fit the hinges so the bottom of the door covers the side, and clears the rear wing. Like all Hoods its make it up as you go, and find a way to make it fit. Sorry I cant supply pics, my bonnet & windscreen are under a tarp in the garden, and the doors are in the loft waiting for me to get off my a**se & finish building and fitting my refurbed redtop. Lockdown lethargy has set in.

The door you are holding is designed to go on the left ie passenger side of the car. There is only one waterproof side, that goes outside. If you just turn it round the fabric side will be outside.

I had one of the first Sierras to come off the line as a company car. Constant misfire at 85 mph in top. I asked Ford to check every month for the first 6 months I had it, and at every service afterwards, but they "couldnt replicate the fault" I got used to getting to 85, felt the misfire, lifted off a bit and cruised at about 75 - 80. 3 years later the car went to my local non-ford garage & asked them to check the misfire. 2 days later, I was driving home from work very late around 11pm, pretty tired, on the A2 & was surprised to see blue flashing lights behind me. They informed me I had been clocked for 2 miles at 106. The garage had replaced the HT leads & fixed the misfire without telling me. 3 months ban. Same car, couldnt get 1st or 2nd with a cold engine. Ford changed the clutch quadrant, the clutch cable, the clutch plate & cover plate. No better. Eventually they changed the sporty short gear lever for a 2 ft long monstrosity.....but it worked.

Just double check which model you have. They came in a variety of specs. You need max 5psi, preferably 4psi. Or check with a pressure gauge.

I used a cube facet with twin 40s without a regulator. But I had to replace it with a cylindrical Facet, that put out too much pressure, so I fitted a Filter King, and set the pressure to 5lbs which seems OK.

That looks really good.

I wish I'd seen that before I wrecked the first 2 sides !!! It also answers your question about the rear axle being in the way. https://nw.rhocar.org/side_panels.htm https://nw.rhocar.org/

Thats good news. Just one word of advice/warning. The stainless side panels can easily buckle if they are not fitted correctly. The key seems to be to space out the panel from the side chassis rail top and bottom immediately in front of the the seat area, so it is dead straight, not at all curved. Research it more on the website, my memory wont stretch back 20 years, but i do remember having to buy 2 replacement side panels!!!

Also try A-plan, they have consistently come up with good prices for me. Wonderful looking car by the way...! Even if it does sound like a Luftwaffe fighter....or two.

Kent's FR32 and Piper's 285 are a good choice for either an unmodified or warmed over engine. The twin 40s will make the most of the cam, but it will work well provided you have a decent carb, eg Weber 32/36. Personally I wouldnt buy a used cam. You have no idea how used/abused it has been. The camshaft has to be removed from the back of the head, meaning taking the head off, so you need new bolts and gaskets anyway.

Just measure from the top of the piston to the top of the gudgeon pin/ wrist pin/ little end (name depends on your age/location!) So long as they are all the same you "should" be ok. Go with Ians recommendations. I dont recall my Pinto measurements. Ive recently been building engines with 4.6 inch bores (598 cu in, 10 litres) so my ring gaps wont help you.

I'd go back to your machine shop. You need the +0.50 rings. Im surprised the correct rings werent included with the pistons. You need to gap all new rings anyway. Check Youtube for how to do it.