richardm6994

how about this dan...seems good value....... 8 Cylinder - High Speed, Vee form, Direct Injection - Turbocharged and intercooled http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROYAL-NAVY-Marine-Diesel-Engine-PAXMAN-8YJCM-1000-BHP-Craft-Spitfire-Class-/320865120993?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_Boat_Engines_EngineParts_SM&hash=item4ab50d32e1

fortunatley I've got enough of a gap between my trailer wheels to fit the car through!

I've just passed the message on and she says that she needs the spare bedroom wallpaper sorting, there is some plastering that need sorting, and the lawn needs sorting.......

Tow a-frame now shorted by 18" bolted and welded back onto the chassis (addition support to be added). The main cross supports are now positioned and tack welded onto the chassis.

rolling road results are in!! the car went in and measured 97bhp at the wheels......it cam out with 131bhp at the wheels!! The session cost me £200+VAT, and included new air correction tubes and main jets. I've also been told I need smaller accel pump jets, but they didn't have any at the garage so they couldn't alter that. The twin 48's which everyone tells me are too big actually turned out to be okay because they are choked to 38mm. Engine compression ratio not a problem!!! (thought it might be too high). Extremely happy with the results and the car feels amazing.....such smooth power and loads more of it!!! It does seem to over-run more than it did before, but I'm not complaining as it sounds awsome!!!!

I'm coming down sunday and stopping over. my pass only permits 1 night......but i'm not moaning too load...it's one more night than was previously planned before you and dan came round and sorted my misses out

what day are you meeting? I'm guessing sat?

stop flooring it!!!!

I think that the law surrounding towing dollies has been well covered before....but as far as I understanding it...it is basically illegal for the following reason; A towing dolly may be equipped with brakes, but only on it's own wheels, the other axle of the vehicle mounted on it will not have operable brakes - so by definition it is not a braked trailer - and should never exceed either 750 kg, or ½ the weight of the towing vehicle, or the towing vehicle manufacturers stated unbraked towing capacity, whichever is least. Legislation does allow for the recovery of a vehicle, from a position where it constitutes a hazard, to a safe-haven. However, to proceed beyond the first safe-haven becomes transport, as opposed to recovery. In this instance a car transporter trailer is required, whereby the entire vehicle is carried upon the trailer (or towed vehicle) the trailers axle(s) being equipped with the requisite brakes. There is an exception to the foregoing in relation to the legitimate use of recovery equipment by recognised Vehicle Recovery Operators, whose vehicles will usually be taxed accordingly. If the police spot you towing a car on a dolly, even if the car has broke down and they witness you go past a "safe-haven" such as the exit off a motorway / duel carriage way, car park etc...they will class you as transporting the car and you will be pulled-up for it. As some of you know, I'm currently building a car transporter trailer because I looked seriously into using / building a dolly but once I looked into it I discovered that it is a risky (in legal terms) way of transporing my RH about.

Jez, when I first read this I thought that imdtom would probably end up spending more money on the manifold than what the carbs are worth....but then I've looked at the Inglese adaptors you've suggested and I'd say that you're spot on!! I think imdtom would be better off with the 1714 model though....then all he needs to do is sort out an adaptor plate to go between his exsisting manifold and this 1714 manifold.. ebay number 190616076810 has one for $249.99

Im just in the process of tapping 36 holes 16ba on a steam engine im working on. Tapping size is 0.6mm (no.72 drill bit). That really is twitchy bum time!!! Plenty of thin oil!!!!

Hi Jess, You are right to be concerned over the stainless "work-hardening" as you try to pein it over. This would be a serious concern of mine as well. This might be a rubbish idea for use with kit cars, but it works very well in the steam engine world where plastic edge trims would melt in seconds... I've have done this a few times and it is a lot easier than it sounds.....but basically you would make edge trim out of tiny aluminium tube Start off with the tube cut to the length you require (plus half an inch for trimming on final fitment). Dia of tube would be 1/8" (circa 3mm dia) as a min. Then using two peices of wood (the same length of the tube) sandwich the tube between the peices of wood (clamp the wood in a vice) to hold the tube ridgid. Then carefully (take your time) use a stanley knife blade (or junior hack saw blade) to score down the tube until you've slit it along it's length. A little tip here is to hold the tube about 1/4" below the top of the wood so that you can use the wood as a guide for the knife when slitting along the the tube's length. Once you have got your slit tube......mould it onto your cut edge as if you would wih the plastic trim. You may need a couple of small blobs of haroldite on the tube on. As the tube is only 1/8 dia, it is very discrete and easy to form to the shape you want. This would be what I'd do in your senario as it is basically replacing your plastic trim with a aluminium trim, and you dont have the hassel and risk of cracking with peining. HTH....link to ebay for tubing if you was interested. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM-TUBE-1-16-1-59mm-9-32-7-15mm-MODEL-ENGINEER-LIVE-STEAM-MODELS-/110855972171?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&var=&hash=item5f7bff8ea4

it screws onto the water pump and from memory I it's a left hand thread. You need a thin spanner (either 32 or 36mm, I cant remember) to the fit onto the hex; http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.capriclub.co.uk/cart/store/catalog/C154%2520(6).jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.capriclub.co.uk/cart/store/comersus_listOneCategory.asp%3FidCategory%3D102&usg=__xontmVwYtFjo-bL_AAx4GKHzgcE=&h=120&w=160&sz=31&hl=en&start=3&zoom=1&tbnid=_Di7vFOaDeUY-M:&tbnh=74&tbnw=98&ei=U52ZT6eeOYSO4gTYo4DFBg&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dpinto%2Bviscous%2Bfan%2Bspanner%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26gbv%3D2%26rlz%3D1W1ADRA_enGB457%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1 Sometimes you can get lucky and use a small chissel and hammer onto the flats of the hex to undo it (thats what I did!).

Evening all, Tonight I start my transporter trailer build diary. Not much really to see as most of the night has been spent unbolting the towing frame, cutting box section etc... Below is a picture of what I'm starting with. The next time I get to spend any time on it will be on Monday night, and I should have more to photo!!!

just a thought.....how about bigger wheels???unless of course you're as big as can go?

that sounds amazine!!! and it must go like a **bleeping** rocket!

dan....you'll have a intake scoop like that soon

I don't think you thought that through did you hammy? Post on a forum in this club telling someone to go and join a different club?!?! Seriously....what kind of reaction did you expect!?!?!

Nick.......that got me thinking because we talked about this this morning and I said 114 degrees......I just read this and cacked myself!! bin out to the garage and checked my little plastic timing disc...and thank *bleep* i have got a little mark at 108 degrees!!! I'm tell ya, my memory is shot!!

Nigel's spot on.....keeping a small amount of tension on the cable prevents the release bearing rattle. It isn't like riding the clutch though as you are not really putting any significant force onto the bearing to effect the pressure between the clutch plate and flywheel.

I found a link to a similar button.......... http://www.wimp.com/pointlessmachine/

good point re the ramp length, I'll keep a look out for this. I have 22 lengths of 12ft box section (60x60x3) FOC therefore I'm hoping I can get the trailer and ramps built from these. With a bit of luck, I'm hoping to have this on the road for no more than the £100 chassis price and plenty of elbow grease.

I also totally agree. After spending years chasing the electrical gremlins in my donor wiring loom, I stripped it all out this winter and rewired from new / scratch....really easy and really worth doing!

Hi steve, i would be very interested in the photos. My exmo measures about 65inch wide and the single axel chassis is 67inches between the inside faces of it wheels so im hoping the car will just squeeze past!

It would be great if you came round, the more advise the better!. My father picked up the chassis today and will be bringing it round to mine on Sunday morning so you're more than welcome to come round any time Sunday if you're free.....kettle will be on! pm me