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Wiper blades are usually the best buy. full car sets which retail at £13 are about £3 with the trade card. Beware though that the special offers like free screwdrivers don't apply when you use it.

This is quoted from Ultima Sports cars website:

http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb...opic.php?t=8457

I made mine from a Peugeot 307 HDi backbox. It is really quiet and on a 185bhp engine. Was only £30 too.

Here's a simple wiring diagram. Remember, you need an oil pressure switch that is closed when the engine is running. They normally are closed when the engine has no oil pressure to turn the oil pressure light on so you may need to install another as I've said.

First, you need to get a decent earth to the black wire on the pump. Then you need to run the red one (extended) to behind your dash. There you will need to fit a relay. On the relay you will see 4 terminals labelled 30, 87, 84 and 85. connect your fuel pump wire to 87. Find a good ignition + and connect that to 85. Then from a spare fuse (30 amp) connect that to 30. Or go direct to the battery but ALWAYS fuse it. The safest way to install and electric fuel pump is so that it doesn't come on if the engine is off, this is important if you are in a crash, the pump doesn't keep supplying fuel and presenting a fire hazard. Find your oil pressure switch, test whether it is earthed out when the engine is off or on. What you need is it to switch to earth when the engine is running, if yours doesn't, then buy one that does and install that along side your other one. T-piece e.g. Connect that to 84. This can be done via a Megajolt also. You will also need to get a push to make switch and wire that from a good earth to terminal 84. This is your priming switch. You won't need to use it normally as there is sufficient fuel in the float chambers to start it, but if you ever need to get more fuel in there, like when you first fire it up after the fuel pipes have been off, then you can over-ride the oil switch that way. What we have effectively there is set up your fuel pump so it only operates when the engine is running, unless you use the over-ride switch. The relay ensures you aren't placing too much load on the ignition live circuit as it tends to be lower power rated than a permanent supply. There are other ways you can do it, as long as you can get a switched supply depending on whether the engine is running or not, this can be positive or earth, it just depends on what you find and connect them to terminals 84 and 85. If i remember correctly, 84 and 85 aren't polarity sensitive. It also pays to test it with a 12v bulb in place of the pump the first time you try it and always work with the battery disconnected. Hope this helps.

Mine is on a 2b, not a Zero, but similar dash. If you can, I'd get it as close to your line of sight as possible as they are hard to read at speed when a warning pops up, you won't see it.

I am offering for sale my 2009 SVA'd 2B+. I built the car myself between 2003 and 2009. It has been fitted from the start (and SVA'd) with a Vauxhall 2L 16v 'redtop' engine on Webber 45 carbs. The car is a front wishbone model (factory, NOT retro fit) With rear coil-overs. It has covered only 125 miles since SVA The engine has had a full, complete rebuild; including head pressure test, skim and replacement of every wearing part. It has been professionally tuned on a rolling road producing 185bhp. (at 95dB) It is dry stored in a garage and never seen rain! The only reason I am selling is I need room for my next project and not allowed a garage extension! It is currently on SORN but available for viewings any time. It has rear adjustable coil over dampers, tyres are as new, Digidash lite, Megajolt ECU, Brand new Webber 45 carbs, New SBD bell alloy bell housing, SBD alloy sump, SBD alloy inlet manifold, SBD kevlar clutch plate, remote alarm, Thatcham Cat 2 immobiliser, GPS positioning and lap timing. Stainless steel fuel tank, Facet fuel pump, new Yokohama tyres, New alloy wheels, all brake components are brand new and not from donor. Currently on age related 'H' plate £8500 Any questions, feel free to email floojab@googlemail.com or call (STRICTLY BETWEEN 16:00 AND 20:30 WEEKDAYS(I WORK NIGHTS), ALL DAY WEEKENDS) 07525254031

A private plate will only ever be worth what someone is willing to pay for it. A friend of mine bought the plate S4NKO from DVLA for £250. During a time of financial hardship he sold it for £1000. Then a year later, it was up on eBay so he asked the seller for a Buy It Now price and he is willing to pay the £1000 for it. He was declined and told the auction was to run. The auction ended up finishing at £150. The added bonus was his name was still on the retention form so no further costs. If you can get £600 for it then sell, but you can buy RAM plates off DVLA for £250 including transfers so It's up to the person buying.

Not been on for ages so thought I'd pop in and say hello. There are so many new names on here now! Here's a few pics of the car incase you haven't seen it before

I'm an aircraft electrician. I work on flight testing for the Eurofighter Typhoon for BAe Systems

£600 lighter and the engine is rebuilt with new everything! Head was pressure tested, skimmed polished and ported and now its a healthy 206bhp few pics and a video

I'll also be going now. Didn't think I could make it at the time of the initial post but I can now. If there are any spare tickets left please let me know.

Got high res of them all too

For those unaware, I am an admin of a forum dedicated to track day enthusiasts Link to website We are attending a Track day at Castle Combe "The Summer Performance Car Action Day" We have attended this show for the past two years and last time won stand of the show with our hospitality trailer and food and drinks throughout the day. Price £30 each which will include: * Entry to the grounds on the day for ONE person only * Stand pass to allow one car on the WeekendRacer.co.uk stand. * 1 session on the track (15 mins) * free lunch and tea/coffee at Weekend Racer headquarters If we are able to get 28 people to pay upfront then we are able to have our very own exclusive WeekendRacer.co.uk session! ADDITIONAL TRACK TIME CAN BE PURCHASED WITH YOUR BOOKING (SUBJECT TO STATUS), TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE CHEAP CLUB ADVANCE RATE! £25 per 15minute session! Additional passes for entry only into the car show can be purchased at £6 each from me, we have a limited number of spaces for the stand so they are reserved for people who wish to go out on the track at some point of the day. Deadline I need payment in by 31st July 2009 The Track See - http://www.castlecombecircuit.co.uk/circuit/circuitmap.asp Car requirements Castle Combe requires all cars to be fully road legal and able to pass a 100db at 4500rpm static test 1/2 a metre away from the exhaust outlet. Passengers Passengers can turn up on the day, pay £5, sign their life away and then you are able to go in any car as a passenger only. What do I do now? Put your name down, which will pretty much mean you're coming and going on track. If you wish to have more track time then please specify how much, then I will PM you with how to send payment to me

not many cheap redtops about. If you do find a cheap one, take a compression tester with you when you view it. Chances are it will be breathing heavy (loads of oil seeping from the sump gasket). I paid £300 for the engine, and just paid £450 for a full rebuild including having the head skimmed, polished and ported. You will then need a shortened alloy sump, bell housing adaptor, inlet manifold, carbs and management. You will need a floor mounted brake pedal as the carbs will be in your way. Also the exhaust will end up on the other side. Budget £2000 for the whole shebang and you won't go wrong.

Well, my paperwork arrived back from the DVLA, so straight to the motor factors for plates and a nice 2 hour drive around. The car feels really well on the road and got loads of looks from pedestrians Roll on tomorrow and the drive over to Newark

Just a friendly warning. This is the type of show aimed at the boy-racer types. It IS NOT a proper track day. I have been to this type of thing before and the driving is frankly dangerous as most people are showing off rather than being true track day fans. If you want my advice (from experience) DO NOT BOTHER. It will end in tears when a kid in a 1.2 Corsa with a flashy body kit comes hurtling round a corner with no control and writes your car off!

I'm driving over to Newark on Saturday afternoon via Snake Pass. I can't make it any earlier due to work. Plans are to leave about 2pm, nice drive over the Pennines and arrive for about 5pm. Meet the club for dinner, stay over the Saturday night for a full day showing on Sunday. If anyone else wants to join me, add your name.

My 2B weighed 350kg on the front and 250kg at the rear. so exactly 600kg in all. How do you lot get an extra 300kg in there?

Sounds good. What next? What about a limited slip diff to get the power down?

Took the 2B to Castle Combe last weekend for a pre-SVA trackday. I wanted to get everything bedded in and also have a bit of fun. The car handled amazing and 200bhp in a car weighing 600kg feels fantastic. Here are a few pics for you.

PASSED! Just need the BUI now. Don't think it will be registered in time for Stoneleigh though

I'm off for my retest soon, 14.30 at Chadderton. Got all the jobs done that it failed on so should stand me in good stead.