chris n

Was not happy with the centre section of the bumper even after a good going over with G3 so touched up the stone chips with a spot of clear the was left over from yesterday, flatted the whole thing with 2000 wet n dry, one coat of base and a couple of clear - this time with my 0.8 mini gun. Ian - practice is all you need so have a go, even I get sags and runs now and then , as I was told by the guy who trained me when I first started out "if you don't get them you're not trying", plus if you do it can be fixed by flatting them out and if you think you will cut through you can use a trick of putting a skim of ultra fine stopper over the run and then flat that back as it will act like a bridge. :-) Rob - a few thing you need to think of when buying a spray gun is 1 how many times a year will you use it 2 what material are you going to spray with it (solvent or water base) 3 the CFM output of the compresser If it was me starting out looking for a gun I would be thinking about the Fast mover FMT4001G with a 1.6 setup these you can buy for about £30 so you can spray both primer and topcoat from the same gun, or for a round £55 you can get the Devilbiss SLG-610 with the 1.3 set up but this gun will run off as 1Hp 5CFM Compressor HTH

Very nice Dan Judging by the vents in the front fairing its a later model with the 149 HP engine

Needed to buy a new primer spay gun as my old gun which has served me well for many years and now has started leaking from the seals and needle housing and not worth repairing. So splashed out and got a set of guns both conventional set up non of this HVPL / LVPL rubbish one is 1.8 for primer and the other is 1.4 for base/ clear . Put them to the test yesterday think they passed with good results just need to MOP the rest of the car and fit it back up.

Spent 30 year working with or for muppets like him! That why I now only answer to one person now Me

Please be advised that the delay in this year's welcome packs being sent out is due to the printers that make up our membership cards having a break down of the printer that puts the numbers on the cards and the company advise me that they are still waiting for the parts to repair the machine. They are hoping to have this sorted in the next couple of days and restart the run. When they mail me with an ETA of finishing the run .boxing them up and sending them to me I will advise accordingly. Apologies for this inconvenience Chris

Hi Steve If you can get hold of a chassis number and PM it to me I should be able to look it up for you with Ford to give you a year on the Transit. Off the top of my head if its a 2.2 FWD they should be all the same drive shafts

PO10f is a MAF problem. under some conditions. I.E- heavy load and on acceleration. In lay man terms the ECU is not calculating the correct air volume when taking into account air density and velocity Check the sensor 100kPa at idle and 250kPa max under load. If the sensor is ok check the ducting. Make sure this is the only engine code you are reading as some scanner will only pick up the PO10f Also have a look at the grey/black multi plug on top of the gearbox next to the bell housing as these can play up and get water in them and put codes into the ECU. Has a Fusion with codes saying the PCV was shot, turned out to be rust in the plug, clean out and a good spray with WD, code cleared problem sorted

Pros and cons to both paint and wrapping. If it was me painting the car I would go with top shelf 2K primers, basecoat and HS clear then after a couple of days with the clear fully dry I would flat the whole car down and then flow coat it for a top durable shine

If you mean these???? If interested send me a PM

if it was 2k paint I would say go for it, did my engine in 2k still good till this day. If you want to use the paint you have do a test part and see how it dry's if it goes rock hard and not sticky after a week it may be ok

All depends on the quality of the paint commercial paint as they are normally the cheapest of the cheap Commercial 1k polyurethane is used normally use as a chassis paint so it may bubble and crack with the heat over time.

All still working fine this end had 5 come in, in the last 20 minutes but have had a couple of reports that the paypal is not accepting payments from an I pad!!! so if you are using one try a different device.

Are you logging into the forum itself or in through facebook? As all is working fine on the forum and this end with me

Robin Hood used British Standard Signal Yellow on the early models. Take a panel along to a local automotive paint supplier they should be able to match or scan the panel to match then mix it up in spray paint or aerosol

Membership to RHOCaR 2015 did expire 31st Dec 2015 and costs £15 for the coming term. ( RHOCaR 2015 members can now renew their expired RHOCaR 2015 memberships) There are two ways you can join/re-join RHOCaR Traditional form/Cheque (£15) You will find attached to this post the RHOCaR membership forms for 2016, I've included Word (.doc) and PDF Format. Please fill one in and send with a cheque, payable to RHOCaR, to Chris Newlands (Details on the membership form) You can upgrade to RHOCaR 2016 by following these links http://www.rhocar.org/member/ http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=38767 Online form/Paypal (£16, due to PayPal surcharges) We offer the ability for you to fill in an online membership form, and pay using the PayPal website (secure). You do not need a PayPal account to do this, just a debit/credit card. Please follow this link to join/re-join RHOCaR via the online membership form. http://www.rhocar.org/member/ Please make sure that these forms are filled out correctly Loads of benefits to being a member in the members only section of the forum Attached Membership forms New forms will be added soon from the new membership sec, Please bear with us as the transfer takes place Thank you

No meetings taking place in the Surrey area that I know of as there is no area sec

Updated 27th October 2015 (405)

Sound like the forms were not filled in correctly if at all with the local DVLA office (when we used to have them) My S7 is pre SVA registered as a Robin Hood Engineering at the Guildford office. I even had the donor cars reg plates put back on it as you could keep them as a Private plate option in them days. As said the only way to get the V5 changed is to put the car in for IVA.

After what seems like a life time with the Hood being off the road in one or two pieces in the garage and not having the spare time to put it back together, its back on the road When I was down the test station last week with a customers car I made my mind up to book it in for a test, so that way I had to get the car finished or would have just sat there for ever more in bits. Passed its Mot this morning. Had fun with it out in the heavy rain wheel spinning down the main road in 5th gear but the grin factors back at last,

Updated 15th July 2015 (388)

A lovely card and an evening family meal out at a local restaurant

Yes they are different, standard BOC fitting, you can pick a good regulator for want you need for about £20 on E bay

Don't bother messing about with the disposable bottle anymore as they don't have much weld time and always run out in the middle of a job when every where is closed Now use a 5% CO2 / Argon mix from Adams Gas bottles are rent free all you do is pay a deposit for it and when you don't want the bottle anymore you get your money back. Was using the 9 litre bottle which works out at £85 +VAT for the deposit and gas and £30 +VAT for the refill. Have swapped over for the 20 litre bottle at the end of last year which is £138 +VAT and £58+Vat a refill. I use the MIG most weeks and the bottle is still over half way full, so it a no brainer to me. http://www.adamsgas....t&view=category

Ian's right the bell housing can be removed on an RX8 but you expose the guts of the gearbox a bit like taking the main casing off on a MT75 box

Only the S7 kits in 1992/93 had a one piece rear body tub from 1994 RHE went with separate rear wings and stainless steel back panel.