steve in stockport

Plenty of good advice above, I would add look for one with more berths than you need and also bear in mind that fixed beds aren't always best with a family, if you put the kids to bed lounge area where are you going to sit other than the bed if you don't have an awning up?

Nodiz website says it will support the vauxhall/bosch 60-2 rigger wheel and crank sensor, any wasted coil pack will work but they recommend the ford one. If your carbs have a 3 wire TPS you should be able to use that too.

here you go link

it's the joint between the gearbox and the bellhousing you want the paper gasket for. Standard ford gasket or you can make your own from a sheet of gasket paper.

The Tatton Park classic car show is taking place over the weekend of 30th and 31st May this year. I'll be applying for a club stand in the next couple of days, the show is free to enter for driver and passenger if you are displaying a vehicle, you can do either day or all weekend and camping is available from Friday usually for about £10 per tent for the weekend. Show details If you're interested in attending add your details below including your name, car make, model and reg, whether you'll be there Saturday, Sunday or all weekend and whether you intend camping. For those who don't camp there is a premier inn about 2 miles from Tatton Park. No money needed, you pay for camping at the show. There is another show in August but there should be another thread about that one soon.

Unfortunately you're just a couple of days late, I know that some of the guys met last week on the 8th - second Thursday- I couldn't get down there as I was working.

The Staffs meetings were held at the Darlaston Inn nr Stone on the A34/51 jct, but as there is now no area sec there is nothing formally organised. A few of the group still get together there, usually on the second Thursday of the month in the evening to chat or get out for a drive depending on the time of year etc. If that doesn't suit why not put yourself forward for area sec, that will give you a full set of contact details for all those in your area. Then pick a meeting place, day and time, get the word out to the members and then sit and wait to see who turns up. Once you're up and running it's pretty easy to keep your group aware of what's going on either via this forum, group email, text or your facebook, twitter etc. Give it a whirl, it costs you nothing but the gains are plenty.

Any rubber pipe in your system need to be at least R9 rated to withstand the latest unleaded fuel with all it's additives, otherwise it will degrade and allow fumes without showing an actual leak. I had the braided black hose from swirlpot to high pressure pump and it stank, because of the size I had to swap it for 100% bioethanol resistant hose at £20 metre.

Here you go, this one's got the right pin out for you relay As Bob said it's a standard 4 pin relay, the '5th contact' is a red herring. It may be that you need to confirm what each wire going to the relay does and confirm that this is the right pin out pattern for the application as there are all sorts of variations out there.

Gutted for you Terry, two melted pistons and a new bottom end was the cost of my venture into forced induction. Sure you'll have it all back up and running soon.

New car in our house too, Golf GTD here for Laura to get to work. Great car with loads of electronic gadgets that could be a nightmare if they decide to go wrong. Laura thinks it's wasted on her as she'll never drive it hard.

does the clutch pedal come into contact with the tunnel side wall or end? If it does, does this happen before the clutch arm has achieved full travel? Plenty of people have had to reshape either the clutch pedal and/or the tunnel walls to get full travel.

Glad you're sorted out Bob, holiday was great but it's a bit of a shocker leaving mid to high twenties in Tenerife and arriving back to 3 degrees at Manchester

Hi Bob, will have a look tomorrow when we get back home from holiday. Otherwise I think autovaux or vauxhall world parts will sell individual head bolts with the washer.

Fast road cams on a red top are about another 16bhp, fancy nuts and bolts don't give you any more power they just mean you can give it more grief before it self destructs. With the 45's and the manifold you may be around the 190/195 area but you need a different ecu to take it further.

I just bought a couple of second hand sets from eBay for about a fiver and used whatever fitted best. Motronic ECU is the standard vauxhall item, not a great deal you can do with that other than chipping it. Rolling road wise you should see about 150bhp at the crank as it'll be set for emissions not power. To be honest if it's running right with all the sensors etc working it's probably going to be a waste of money putting it on the rollers. Get a programmable ecu such as megasquirt,emerald, omex etc then have it done.

First off stop even thinking about a distributer, you don't have one,you either have a later non distibuter engine or an early one that's been converted. Ignition timing will be by a stand alone ECU,there will either be a crank position sensor in the block below number 1 exhaust port or a sensor and toothed wheel on the front of the crank pulley. As I said before someone has used that lead as a bodge because the proper one was too short to reach from where the coil pack is mounted. If it's running ok either live with or just get one lead made with the right connections. Try to suss out what ECU you have because the tuner should be able to map that for best results.

It'll just be a bodge because number 4 lead is too short to reach the coil pack if it's not mounted where it would have been in the vauxhall.

I was working, busy dealing with a house roof and loft on fire

Had this myself at the end of September, jacked the car up and found a bit of play in the rear hub when I tried to rock the wheel from side to side. Took the wheel off and found the hub nut was loose. Fortunately I had a new bearing kit in the garage, so I fitted this and no squeak since.

Only Richard Stewart could come up with something like this Or maybe some medieval torturer.Got to love the look of pain on his face.

Dave I went for the Westfield m/c as they fit them without a servo as standard and the push rod is threaded for a clevis pin and pivot to attach to the pedal. The distance from pedal pad to pivot is 6.5 X pivot to clevis pin. If you want any more info on the set up give me a call or maybe we can meet up so you can look at the car

here you go link As Chris said, get it delivered on a pallet. cost me £75 to have an engine delivered from Cornwall last year

Anything is possible if you're willing to put the time and effort in and as a project it could be interesting. But as your main reason seems to be to save £100 a year on road tax then even on a super tight budget you will end up spending a lot of money that will easily outweigh the savings you would make on road tax for at least seven years, but probably nearer fifteen to twenty.

Adam, have you tried looking at one of the companies who already do bike engined kits? I'd have thought they would have a manifold that will be what you're after