agent_zed

just to add mine is listed as registered 1990 (as mine is a H plate) even though i SVA'd in 2007. It does state the 2007 alteration on the V5 as well (don't have it to hand for the wording but i know it has both). So mine has always been tested to the ~1991 standard and hopefully will remain so as that's what the government site says. But who knows. Luckily i have always gone to the same garage and they are pretty good at understanding it requires some common sense. Mine failed on the handbrake last week and i shouldn't technically have taken it away but as the chap said 'well i can't physically stop you'. I took it back for re-test after 10 days and he couldn't do a retest so he checked the brakes and then stuck it on the ramp for 45mins as really what it the point of doing a full re-inspection of a car that he looked at 11 days ago.

nobody...? Guess i might stick them on ebay if no-one takes them and donate the money to charity. Drop me a message if you want them though

think i remember RH saying grease it every 500 miles. I need to do mine again though that's for sure

yeah i cut and welded mine to get a better angle so it wasn't so high up. it is still quite high up as i can rest my foot under it but it is better now. Can't remember if i moved it sideways or not. I don't think so though. I welded some bits of steel over the joint on the inside just to be sure the joint was nice and strong. As long as the weld looks good i wouldn't worry too much, there are other bits of steel on the car that take far more load that are welded together (think what the wishbones have to deal with and they have multiple welds).

Just musing on engine choices if i was to change as the old pinto is getting smokey and i'm not sure the relative cost of rebuild vs upgrading to a more modern engine. I could get a bell housing http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/zetec-se-to-ford-gearbox-bellhousing.htmlfor £189 to fit an SE, they do a 1.4 that makes 96 PS (71 kW; 95 hp), 125 N⋅m (92 lb⋅ft) in the 2008–Present Ford Fiesta Mk7 according to wiki. This would be far more than the 75bhp my 1.6 pinto makes and would be a lighter engine. In theory my tax would then drop by ~£100 a year, so would pay for itself in a few years. Does the zetec SE have the exhaust the same side as the pinto? i'm trying to minimise changes so would exit through same hole and i could reuse current exhaust mostly.

Hi, My parents have been badgering me to get rid of the old set of alloys i had on my 2b that are currently just taking up space in their garden. I was kindly given these by pwlcarz many years ago and always figured i'd pass on the good karma when i was done with them. My only condition is that who ever takes them does the same when they are finished with them and passes them on for free (unless they are sold with a car i guess). They will definitely need new tyres. They are 186,60,14's I think there are 5 (definitely 4) been a while since i looked so can't remember as i never carry a 5th. They are in pretty good condition, the pic doesn't show it that well as there are some leaves and dirt on them but they will clean up. They aren't exactly cutting edge/modern looing etc but are quite a pleasant looking alloy on the 2b if you want something subtle. Probably not so good for sliding pillar as only 14inch. Too big to post so collection only from Lydney, glos

just looked at the official pdf here https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/698421/inf104-vehicle-registration-numbers-and-number-plates.pdfand it says that the min margin from the letters to the edge of the plate is 11mm Just measured my plate and there is 16mm top and bottom so i could cut off 5mm all around and still be legal.

same as cb750. I wrote a thread recently about my problem with not enough pull on the longer 2wd cosworth cable. I solved this in part by removing the squidgy bush at the pedal end and replacing with a solid block (actually an old suspension bush off the front). I also had to put something down the gap of the quadrant to make it bigger. I had the yellow 45mm one and after putting a bit of 3core+e down the gap it brings it up to about 55mm. Seems to be fine now.

bad here too. My peugeot 3008 broke a rear spring, my brothers Kia sportage broke a front spring and my GFs polo broke a front spring and i am now waiting for a rear shock as i noticed that was leaking oil this week. all within a month or so. There are some pretty dangerous ones around at the moment, i wouldn't want to be a motorbiker or a road cyclist at the moment that's for sure. sorry to hear your shock snapped. don't have any spares to offer sadly. Is it just a standard sierra shock?

I think you've probably in the right area of investigation. I'd guess a blockage in the jets or some air getting in diluting the mixture. If it runs with the choke then it's increasing the fuel to air mixture and temporarily bypassing your problem. I'm not that experienced with bike carbs but i think they have a breather pipe. Others can clarify but i think on some carbs they need to be open and others closed off. can you see one on your setup? Just thinking if it was blocked off for the first run and then became unblocked causing your problem.

Might be worth asking if GBS do the bonnet as well. If you wanted to give it a go yourself i reckon the hardest part would be the right angle bend each side but even that could be done with some slow and careful clamping and hammering. Not sure if you built your car but if not the 2b came with a flat rear panel and RH got the builder to make the bends. Which was surprisingly easy to do. From memory you draw a line at the centre of the curve and then with the panel flat on the floor with the top facing down pull the furthest edge up towards you and squish it down a bit like you are bending it over a melon (i think that was RH's words). The more you push down the tighter the bend will be. So you need to do a bit and check against your nose cone/scuttle. a quick search it would cost about £155 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-steel-sheet-304-DP1-1250-x-1250-x-0-9mm-Mirror-polished-/252745876838?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10but that is a bit thicker than the RH steel which i think should be 0.7mmm oh yeah louvres would be the hard part as you need a proper machine, or you could put a premade vent https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/stainless-steel-louvred-ventsin. hth

the boot/cable will look like this https://sites.google.com/site/morganatica/04-transmission/cable-clutch-type-9-quadrant-problemswhen in place. Although it won't have a threaded part on the seirra setup as that's what the spring part of the pedal end does.

oh sorry i didn't quite get what you were asking. Sump covers aren't a standard feature so will be however the original builder made it. I would guess it won't need to be removed as the cable joins at the bellhousing so it further back than the sump. this is a pic i found on google to show how the cable attaches. The boot is not on this pic but just fits over all of that. http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2004/5/200459194937488090.JPG

there is a black 'boot' over the gearbox end of the clutch cable. It springs into the recess so should just pull out with a bit of a wiggle and a squeeze (of the boot that is). You should be able to reach it under the car, i did mine the other day. The cable just hooks through a keyhole. If you jack the car up make sure you have safety blocks so it can't drop on you as you have to reach under a fair distance. hth

I had the similar welded steel pipe with a 90 degree bend. Couldn't get the nozzle around the corner easily so had to fill slowly. In the end i cut out the inner side of the bend and welded a gusset across so there is a bigger area to get the nozzle around. Can now fill a lot faster. I don't actually have a breather on my tank but it doesn't seem to cause me any problems. I did drill some holes in the pipe just below the tank top so any air at the top of the tank can escape or i would have lost an inch or 2 of tank space as it would have air locked.

"however neighbouring Salisbury had 19!" I read that too quickly and thought thought for a moment you wrote 'Sainsburys' and wondered when they had started to stock old ford parts glad you got it sorted

All this spring is doing is taking any slack out of the cable and stops the clutch release bearing clattering (As it holds it against the clutch). As soon as you put your foot on the clutch pedal it engages a toothed part on the quadrant which then locks everything in place, the spring at this point is redundant. If the cable stretches over time the spring continues to take up the slack. A lesser weight spring should still work as long as it has enough pulling power to keep tension on the cable. hth

the pinto blocks have big numbers cast on the side. I can't remember if the earlier ones had 16,18,20 but the later ones are 165 185 205. I have a 165 block which is the same height as the others the earlier 16 block i believe is about an inch shorter as it's an over square engine (piston wider than it is tall), my 1.6 is the eco-max engine with undersquare pistons as it has a longer stroke and narrower pistons. the 205 block from what i've read is essentially a cosworth block as it has been strengthened over the earlier 20 block. I 'think' the inlet manifold for the 1.6 is smaller as the holes are smaller than the holes in the block by quite a bit. I think it still fits the 2ltr but just won't flow as well (i could be wrong though) the cast iron manifold though looks like it is probaby the same as i don't think they could make the holes any bigger, but again just my thinking. any pinto after 89' is unleaded.

also note in Longboarders pic that you need to ensure the angle of the hole the balljoint goes into is pointing down towards the car. I.e the top of the hole is further from the car than the bottom of the hole. If you don't the balljoint will run out of movement when the suspension drops and risks snapping it off. if that makes sense. Also check that at full droop the shock should be stopping the arm dropping any further not the balljoint.

ah ok will check. apparently if the trailer is pre 1998 you don't need lights as long the car lights are visible from 6m away in a straight line behind the vehicle. half tempted to buy an old trailer and not worry about lights at all!

make one of these instead. would need to be a little smaller though http://www.fraserway.com/images/content-images/truck-campers.jpg?sfvrsn=0

you said you just refueled.... how long before that. I once took 1 litre of water out of a fuel tank after filling up at the local tescos. It's happens every now and then when their tanks get low and you get the dregs. strangely enough cars don't like to run on water. do you have a clear fuel filter or are you able to see into the tank with the sender removed, water looks like a separate layer at the bottom. Although it might have been sucked up into your swirl pot and no longer be in the tank. just a thought. This site https://www.bellperformance.com/blog/water-in-gas-tank-symptomsmentions some symptoms that seem similar to what you are having. hth

thankfully i have an aux socket in the boot which i intend to use as the power supply. I figure that should be beefy enough for a few lights. This is why i was thinking how awesome it would be in you could plug into the odb and just run a cable through the car when needed off the cigarette socket or have a wireless module receiving in the boot or trailer. Led lights hardly pull any juice so could be run off a separate battery in the trailer. But as this is only in my head i guess i'll stick with the bypass relay for now thanks

i'm ok splicing in as long as i use a bypass relay aren't i? so the vehicle wiring just tells the bypass to turn on the lights with a different power source. Not like the old days of pulling power from the vehicle lights directly. thats right isn;t it? I asked about 'trailer prep' (which i'd seen mentioned on peugeot forums) and the parts guy at the peugeot dealer hadn't heard of it. Said it would take 4-5 hours labour to fit. From what i can see the towbar fits on the 4 bolts that hang down. 'Should' be a 20min job. If the electrics were plug and play that would be another 20mins..

more out of interest than actually being able to do anything with the info.. So i am fitting a towbar to my peugeot 3008 and by the look of it the actual physical bar bit is an easy job. The hassle comes with all the electrics having to splice into wires and fitting a bypass relay etc So i got to thinking why couldn't someone make a bluetooth (or wireless) obd2 connector (like the elm ones that are £4) that talks to a module that you can stick in the boot and run off the aux power or in the actual trailer on a separate battery. Or even a wired one that isn't fixed you just plug into the obd2 and your front aux socket and run the cable through to the boot to connect to the trailer socket. Which comes back to the first question if the obd2 port knows if you put your brakes on for example. anyone know?