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Robin Hood Exmo, From Barn To Iva


NickandNeil
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Yes, echo that, if you leave that as-is you will find your cooling is even worse than before. Now the radiator fins are at such an angle and you've not blocked off around the radiator to actually force air *through* it, the air will find it far easier to blow "up" the slope/ramp of the radiator face and over the top into the engine bay. This is a very common problem on kits, angled radiator or not. There's some in-depth F1 article about radiator angles that I read once, probably show up on an internet search if you're interested :D....

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Hi all, since the last update it became obvious that even though we had added the header tank to the system it didn't actually seem to be doing anything. A quick look into the cooling system showed that the header feed pipe had rusted closed, and also that the thermostat had perished and needed replacing. A quick visit to the local shop and we were on our way back with a new thermostat, spark plugs and timing belt. It was surprisingly easy to drill out the header feed pipe and reassembling only took a couple of minutes. I have added a few pictures of the process of changing the timing belt, we used the old cut it in half down the middle and slide on the new one then cut the old one technique. 

Unfortunately when once everything was changed and installed we went to start the engine only to quickly realize that we were only running on three cylinders. It only took a minute of searching before one of the HT leads fell apart in my hands, parts are on order and will be here Tuesday. 

Brumster, yeah that's the plan. I am thinking of making it out of a single sheet of plastic and then cut out the shape of the radiator and have it really snug in the nose cone. I couldn't find the F1 article you mentioned but I did find a few interesting Youtube videos on the subject which have given me few ideas for how to implement it. 

We still have some concerns about the mounting for rear shock absorbers  and the seat belt mounting points, could any Exmo owners show us pictures what you have done? I'm not sure what we have is good enough for the IVA.

Thanks for reading

Nick

 

Timing belt 1.jpg

Timing belt 2.jpg

Timing belt 3.jpg

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Hi,

Just seen your threads and notice the cooling issues you have had. As you are now fitting a header I have a non vented radiator off a VW Polo diesel (new) which is plenty adequate for stock pinto applications - no charge just give a donation to charity, this would allow the rad to be more vertically mounted. If you continue with your positioning you may have to carefully direct the air flow even to the extent of adding mid fins as there would be a tendency for the radiator to only be effectively cooled at the top due to air damming. I experienced this with construction equipment applications where heavy duty fans had to be fitted operating constantly to maintain efficiency. 

I had problems fitting radiators in mine car but mostly due to the requirements of fitting a large inter-cooler which I had to mount in the front, my offbeat solution was to fit a side pod with 2 formula Ford radiators (long but high capacity) also a Kawasaki unit directly down from the header tank and turbo. All this has resulted in an extremely cool running engine with only about 50kg added to overall mass, useful in an engine with high power potential and allowing all of it to be used.

Jim

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I can get you some photos of S7 next time I’m over working on it if it will help, won’t be for a week or so though.

what rear shocks have you got?

I have 4 point harnesses and for mounting the rear mounts go through the top lip on the rear panel and through a piece of box section that is welded into the load spreading plates for the rear shocks.   The lower harness mounts go through the panel at the back of the seat into the standard harness eye load spreading plates, but I was required to also add some angle iron on the inside to brace that panel so it wouldn’t deform in an accident. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Mr Toad that's a kind offer, but for the moment were going to stick to our current setup, after all the hours and money we have now put into installing it we want to see if our handy work makes the difference to the cooling (though you may get a panicked message of us if it doesn't). 

The Duck, yeah that would be great thanks could definitely do with some advice on this one.

I will attach a few pics of our current rear suspension and our rear roll cage and you can tell us what you think. We are planning on adding 4 point seat belts to replace the ones in the photo. I'm assuming we will be better off ditching the current rear shocks and spring for a coil over option in the space the spring currently uses with a bit of strengthening? if so does anyone have advice on where to find something that should fit in current set up with little modification?  

Cheers again

Nick an Neil

 

Rear suspention.jpg

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rear suspention4.jpg

rear suspention5.jpg

rear suspention6.jpg

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Robin Hood did a coilover kit/upgrade for the Exmo that put it all where your current damper is, and the existing spring just went bye-bye (the space left empty). You could make up something similar although obviously you would need to make your own mounting plate for the top - I wouldn't re-use the RHE one you have for the damper. You want something with some strength in it, maybe pick up/extend the red bracket you have there that mounts the rear section to the tub. *If* you decide to go that route :) it won't make the thing magically handle any better though so I wouldn't get too tied up about it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We were more worried about it from an IVA stand point, is the mounting point strong enough where it is or does it need a bit of re-enforcement? Currently with the shock fully extended the spring could fall out without the bit of rope that is currently in place. Seems a bit of an unusual setup but if it is a passable arrangement we don't want to add extra work at this point.  

The way I see it there are two main choices with an expensive third. We could either go for a larger but softer spring in the same place as the current one which would probably be the easiest and cheapest fix for now. Or we can go for just a new shock and add a new mounting system, keeping the old spring with an improved top mount. The third would be splashing the cash on the coil over option which isn't really an option. 

What do you guys think?

P.S. Just a quick update on what we have been up to. Most of the cars lights now work as they should, after two days of soldering and shrink wrapping connectors all we have left to do is the dashboard lighting and fog light switch. just about all the lighting was fixable with either new bulbs, new  switches or just a bit or soldering. We have disassembled the rear breaks ready for a full service and new pads. Replaced the engine oil, put in new spark plugs, new ht leads and distributor cap. Oh and we have done the final fit on the cooling system which is now working a dream!  

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There are many S7s around with the original rear suspension as yours, and I guess some have got through the IVA like it. I f you look on Dave Andrews site,  http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/ there is a drawing of a bracket to take a Capri rear shocker instead of the longer Sierra, this will fit to the tub in the area of the red angle reinforcement you have. Some cars have coil overs fitted in this position, I had doubts about the strength of the mounting on the swing arm as it was only designed to take a shock absorber not to support the weight of the car, but I've not heard of any problems. To find a longer softer spring could be tricky as I'm not sure if anyone knows what the originals were rated at, I guess they varied a bit  according to  the model.

 

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As per above, provided the springs are retained suitably that they can't unseat you should be fine. I failed an MOT once but that was because the ropes weren't in place; I was never a fan of them to be honest. I lockwired the spring tops as a temporary measure but I think for IVA you'd want something more permanent. Much as it looks a kludge, the rope approach works :) I'd maybe just do something a little more professional/permanent looking for IVA, maybe a top cup/seat for the spring (over and above the simple rectangular 'tray' you get as standard) that holds it in place.... but ultimately restricting the amount of droop on the suspension is the sound idea and the rope system certainly does it cost-effectively!

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The RH rear coil overs were Mini rear shocks with Springs mounted over them.

I bought them but soon binned them as the mounting bolts and rubber inserts were too small.

The replacement coilovers required bigger mounting holes but have lasted 65,000 miles.

The rear shock mounting lugs are plenty strong enough.

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  • 6 months later...

Thanks for the advice on the shocks.  We have listened and decieded to keep the sierra main springs and fit a pair of shorter capri shock's.  The advantage is that the shock's are now upright so should work better.  We had new upper brackets made for the upper mounts that could be bolted to the strong side bar.  (see Attached photo.)  This also gives us the option for coil overs in the future. (see pic)

We also had to have fittings made for the lowerer shocker mounting, Again see pics.

susspension 2.JPG

susspension lower fittings.JPG

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We have decieded to go for a four point racing type harness.  The fittings on the rear are attatched to a hidden stainless bar that goes the length of the rear of the car. (See pic)

The roll bar was also modified.  The front fitting was simply held on by one u bolt, and was little more that a decoration.  We had two feet fabricated and welded to the floor of the car.  It is now bolted through the floor.  With the rear of the roll bar fitted to the same strengthening bar that the seat belts are fitted to it is solid and hopefully will please the IVA.

seat belts.JPG

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I used an old Westfield steering wheel which has the whole of the centre padded and was a guaranteed pass for that situation. As your picture this would be a sure fails as there is too much hard surfaces.

I have the Westfield steering wheel for sale £25 + £5 delivery, it is 300mm diameter, black, in perfect condition and I had adapted it to fit the standard shaft of a Sierra.

Alternatively you could make a rubber covering for the wheel and as long as it looks the part and is firmly in position it would cover the IVA requirements.

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