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Pinto Electronic Ignition


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Hello

 

I am looking for some advice please. I have a Robin Hood that is based on a 1988 Ford Sierra.  It is running a 2.0l OHC Pinto with an ESC II module. I was thinking about replacing the standard ignition system with electronic ignition.  I was looking at Accuspark but I am a bit unclear as to what to go for.

The current system seems to have a ballast coil that takes it feed from the ESC module. The Bosch distributor hasn't got a vacuum advance and takes it feeds from the coil and ESC module which has got a vacuum feed from the manifold.

Is it better to replace the current ballast coil with a standard coil and give it a feed directly from the ignition rather than the ESC?

By replacing the points with either a conversion kit or electronic distributor how will it get a feed for the advance if the signal is no longer coming from the ESC?

I have contacted Accuspark and they just advised their distributors are stand alone and can use either a ballast or standard coil.

 

 

 

Graeme

 

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As Patrick and Accuspark have said, the accuspark is a complete standalone setup, it uses good old fashioned weights and springs for advance, and of course vacuum for cruise/decel.  Club members used to get discount too, the code will be the members discounts section.

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ESC11 and its Bosch 'Hall Effect' dizzy are already electronic, albeit with a more conservative ignition map than say Accuspark. The ESC11 also controls manifold heater and the stepper motor on the carb for idle control.

Is there a problem with the unit? Changing to accuspark would be unlikely to give big gains but is perhaps a little more adjustable. I ran ESC with twin 40's and it was fine.

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Every day is a school day, thank you very much for your responses!  I had a disastrous attempt at getting to my IVA including a poor running engine.  I am just looking over everything and was just thinking ahead about what I might need to do.

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The ESC11 with DFTH carb that went with it are a bit clunky and overcomplicated. If you have a poor running engine then changing to an accuspark dizzy and converting the carb by removing the stepper motor and making up a screw type 'throttlestop' to allow you to set idle will simplify matters. This will only help if you have checked through the usual culprits for poor running like cam timing, compression, air leaks, ignition timing, dizzy components, leads, plugs, jets, fuel supply, float height etc and they are all ok.

What carb are you using?

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I have a 30/34 DFTH.  I have just stripped it down and serviced it using a kit from Fast Road Cars.  I had a problem with the fuel sender I have just replaced this and I am now replacing the fuel hoses and filter.  The engine ran fine while stationary but as soon as you put much load on, it would cough splutter and die followed by refusing to idle.  My next step was to move onto the electrics and start checking them over.

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