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theduck

theducks Ford Prefect 100e ex-drift car Turbo Pinto Project

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In amongst all the work I have been doing on the wiring, I have been doing small periods of work on other bits and pieces to try and keep me sane! This video is a collection of the work I did on the turbo and the intake manifold setups and I am very pleased with the results. The new (used) Subaru TD05 turbo exhaust housing is in immaculate condition and was well worth buying as it fits the new turbo, and everything else perfectly. If only the inlet manifold was as good a buy! I am still in shock by not only how dirty it was but that I found so much crap inside it! Yes, I know, it a youtube video and if I was sat watching someone else's video where this happened, I would think it is fake too, but I swear its real. I am half tempted to message the eBay seller I bought it off and find out if they had engine problems though. In a way I am thankful it was so dirty because if it wasn't I might have just bolted it on and run it as it was, and would have destroyed my engine!

 

 
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Making a wiring loom from scratch is hard work and takes a lot of planning, but it will be totally worth it when it is all done! As well as working on the wiring I install new switch panel and centre console, some of my intellitronix gauges and my pidash.
 

 

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In this video the main focus is getting the wiring finished! To that end, we set about installing our megasquirt ecu in to the 1958 Prefect 100e Pinto Turbo Project Car. It's a setup we used previously on the kit car build, but the looms a mess, but not because we did a bad job last time, oh no, we were smart, we knew it was going to be pulled out and go into something else, so what we did was extend our brand new loom so when we pulled it it out we still had a completely new loom to work with on the new car, and it was totally worth it! We also get a little bit of plumbing done while we are at it, and the car is really coming together well.

ALSO, I will be doing a Q&A video in the coming weeks, so if you have any questions you want me to answer in that, just let me know :)

 

 

Edited by theduck
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Hi Stuart,

Looking at your second wiring diagram  for the indicators, the warning light is connected to 2 +ve's with no -ve or am I missing something?

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Thats right, I'll be honest, I dont completely understand how that works, and I have the MG Register to thank for the answer on how to make it work as I copied their recommended wiring for an indicator warning buzzer - https://www.mgb-register.org/louder-audible-warning-indicators/
 

It does mean that the warning light flashes at the opposite time to the indicator flashing, but can live with that for a nice neat wiring solution.

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In this video we modify parts to make them work on the 1958 Ford Prefect 100e Pinto Turbo Project Car. First up is the compressor housing of our new turbo which needs a boost take off for the wastegate, then we take the cleanest completely original Ford Pinto EFI fuel rail we have ever seen, and cut it up! Talking of cutting things up, we cut up the steering column support too! In the end though, we make everything better and the car is getting closer to the point where we take it all apart again...

 

 

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Hi Stu,

The indicator warning lamp draws its 12v - through the indicator lamps.

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Just for interest, I found that when I added a loud buzzer and a high intensity LED light to my system (I don’t have a self cancel and was forever leaving an indicator on) then, because of the extra current drain, the normal diagnosis of indicator frequency doubling if a bulb failed, didn’t work anymore.  So I have to regularly check they are still working while in the garage.

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The sounder on my Subaru is a quiet as a mouse's fart meaning I was constantly leaving them on like a muppet, so I added a buzzer. Being Japanese, the wiring is a bit of a law unto itself so I fitted 2 buzzers, one for left hand and one for right. 

Unfortunately the buzzers were a semi-tone apart so signalling around roundabouts became incredibly annoying when the sound shifted pitch as I was making right to left turns. 

I now have one buzzer wired through diodes. 

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s-l1600.jpg

I purchased this item from ebay item No. 252651891201

Cost £4.00 inc postage.

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My wife has to vet any new car for indicator sound - if she doesn't like it, I'm not allowed to buy it 😄

For the record, our current Lexus only just made it and our Hyundai before that was the best... 😆

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I've not been looking forward to making the brake and fuel hardlines I have to say, and I wasn't wrong! Despite that, so far so good, the they've come out looking nice, though I haven't pressure tested the plumbing yet so it could still be a disaster!

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This week it’s the Q&A video, normal service resumes next week. 
 

 

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In this video I am mostly cutting up tube and sticking it together with unicorns because (a) my welder is broken and (b) I suck at welding anyway! The end results though, well, I am very happy with them and cannot wait to get them properly welded up!

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