2.0L Pinto Timing

[phaeton]

It's not running right I thought it was a carb but set that back to base level screw all the way in then back out 2 turns, but even with that it's still banging & popping, refusing to rev up. So I thought I'd check the timing, read it ought to be around 8 degrees, when I checked it assuming I did i right it's had 40 degrees of advance, I'm managed to pull it back to 32 degrees but now the wiring is hitting the engine. Looks like I'll have to swap the leads back a hole & try it again tomorrow, but can you just sensecheck my logic.

Engine turns clockwise, there are markings on the crank pulley, they appear to be the first mark 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 & the last TDC with 12 being the first as the engine spins, there is also a mark on the casing, I put some ink on the last mark which I believe is TDC & started the engine, my timing light is one with a dial on the back so you turn the knob until the marks line up with TDC then read the gauge.

The quality of the image isn't great but can somebody confirm that the engine is now at TDC

It has just had a new camshaft fitted, could it be it's not lined up correctly & the belt is a tooth or more out?

 

 

[Peter Bell]

Assuming it’s the standard cam pulley it will have a pointer at the back which lines up with a mark on the head when the crank is at tdc . It will only line up every second turn of the crank as they are geared 2:1

[Leslie Walters]

Check the valve timing by all means but far more likely is the pulley which drives the distributor has not been correctly timed when the belt has been refitted hence the distributor requiring turning further than its usual position to achieve ignition timing.

[tractor]

with the engine at TDC the pointer on the cam pulley should point to the mark on the head and the rotor arm should point to number one spark plug lead on the dizzy cap and also number one plug lead should be closest to cambelt the timing marks on the pulley are TDC then 12 10 8 i would set it at 10    

[phaeton]

Thanks all I'll check tomorrow evening I'm surprised it runs at 40 degrees TBH

[phaeton]

Right still fighting, pulled off the camcover & at TDC I have the cam in the right place, the dizzy is however 180 degrees out if it should be pointing to the front of the car & be closest to the cambelt. Either way to stop it catching on the block I turned it 90 degrees & then moved the leads to suit. It runs a lot better, I think it's at 10 degrees but my timing light went on the blink, it's one with a dial at the back to dial in degrees & it seems to have stopped working. But the engine runs a lot smoother, but I still have overfueling problems, plugs come out full of soot, trying to accelerate has flames coming out of the carb.

There's a tuner about 5 miles up the road I may admit defeat & for £60 let him sort it.

 

[tractor]

glad to hear you are having some success 

[magh]

No 1 on the dizzy of looking over it from the passenger side points backwards towards the passenger footwell. 

[Jez Morton]

Usually you can set the tdc and cam then just withdraw the dizzy and refit in correct orientation. You still need to time it correctly afterwards but you should be close and have room to adjust.

[phaeton]

I think after many red herrings we're getting somewhere, checked the tappets, they're all good, all valves moving as they should, although the brand new feeler gauges had to be modified

Then checked the timing

All good,

Took the top off the weber to make sure the float wasn't stuck, the B******D R clip was a right PITA to get back n

After which it was exactly the same!!

I was looking at the plugs as they'd sooted up again, Unipart, so I said to my wife, I'm going to go get a new set of plugs, it won't be them, but there's nothing else to change, so nipped to the local car spares & got a set of NGK's £8 for 4 plugs, put them in, started first throw of the key, purred away nicely, went up the road occasional pop but nothing drastic, came back leaned the fuel off 1/4 turn, up road, better, 1/4 turn, now runs nice, still a little hesitant are 2K trimmed the timing from 10 to 8 degrees now seems all okay. Still may take it to the Rolling Road on Friday let him set it up properly, he's match the jets to the engine, but a lot happier now.

[phaeton]

Spoke too soon, it was going for MOT tomorrow so put the bonnet on & decided just to run up road. Got to end of road & then it would rev couldn't get it above 1200, then it started popping & banging exactly as before. 

[Dave Ed]

Have you looked at replacing the rotor arm in the distributor. I had a similar issue on an old Alfa and it was the rotor arm arcing inside the cap and losing the spark. 

[phaeton]

I went to get new ones, although they look new already, they didn't have any in stock, but several people had a gander at them & we're all convinced they are fine. I'll try to get them though

[Davo]

When you say it wouldn’t rev up, I Don’t suppose it was like this?

 

[phaeton]

No it just wouldn't go above 1200rpm at all, but on Wednesday afternoon/evening (I think) I reset the tappets, rechecked the float, blew out the main jets, changed a fuel filter after the pump, the one before the pump seemed okay, reset the timing. Kept my grandson & granddaughter entertained with the popping & banging & flames shooting out of the carb. But after resetting everything it seemed to run okay only did about a mile as no MOT, I took it last night over to a guy who's going to put it on a rolling road today to setup properly.