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Engine turning slightly but starter new and new battery

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have you checked the earth lead has a clean connection & check the  volt reading on new battery if all ok you could have a faulty new starter 

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I have a very similar problem at the moment (on a Zetec), although not quite as bad - mine does turn over and the engine will start, eventually.

I get that clicking (which is the starter motor rotor moving into position) occasionally as well but suddenly, it will whirr into life, so suggests a dodgy connection somewhere. Maybe the relay sticking? I'm going to change mine next...

As others have said, almost certainly electrical. I have checked all my earth points and they seem ok. I put a multimeter on the starter motor terminal yesterday and while starting, it was only getting around 8v, which maybe suggests the earth to the starter motor is bad? I dunno...

Hopefully, you'll find something different that will help me, so 🍿

Edited by nelmo
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Re-check your ignition timing. I've had similar when it was way out after putting back together. 

If it's the bosch electronic dizzy there are some initial settings you can line it up with to get a ball park starting point. Its in the haynes manual (don't have it to hand or i'd post a pic). Check all the ht leads are correct too whilst you are at it. 

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Disconnect the coil ht lead to check ignition timing isnt stopping it turning

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Watching and listening again to the vid, the clicking is obviously the starter relay cutting in and out and sometimes holding, at which point the motor turns but slowly. Two things happen when the solenoid is energised, the solenoid pulls an arm that pivots to push the starter dog and engage it with the flywheel cogs, at the same time it closes an electrical switch that connects the battery to the motor. The switch has to make a good enough contact to pass the high current needed by the motor. So a possible cause of the problem is low voltage/current in the circuit that powers the solenoid, sometimes it barely has enough energy to engage the cogs and close the contact but the sudden added slight drop in voltage due to the motor starting causes the solenoid to drop out, then the motor drain stops and the solenoid has just enough power to re-engage, and this process repeats causing the rapid clicking. When the solenoid manages to make prolonged contact, enough for the motor to turn, it still only holds the contacts of the internal switch together weakly and not strong enough to pass enough current. Obviously the power to the solenoid is either coming through your ignition switch, in the start position, or via a relay that is driven by the ignition switch, depending on your cars wiring. In any case you can test this theory by energizing the solenoid directly from the battery rather than using the ignition switch. You need to be careful, make sure that the car is not in gear etc and with care connect the thick lead (positive) coming from the battey to the solenoid terminal on the starter (disconnect the wire coming from the ignition system), be careful, connect a thickish wire to the solenoid first before touching it to the thick wire terminal from the battery positive or directly to the battery positive. If this way of powering the solenoid solves the slow turnover problem then it indicates that the problem is with the power coming from the ignition system, and not starter power or earthing etc. If turnover is still slow, and the clicking noise occurs etc .... well at least you have eliminated something that might be a problem.

P.S. Warning, if you have not done anything like this before, be prepared for a bit of sparking when you touch the wire to the positive terminal and the sudden activity from the starter that it generates, which will continue for as long as you make the contact. If you left the ignition switch on, then the engine might start to add further drama and the need to stop the contact immediatly, just like when you hold the key in the start position and then let it spring back.

Edited by Sparepart
add a warning
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