kevin the chicken

Dry powder does the job but it does make a terrible mess and gets everywhere. You may well find that a lot of the things you are trying to save become ruined by powder ingress anyway but if it saves a life so what. I wouldn't be surpraised if it did become settled and hard after time but I don't know if it is true. If it's all you've got use it. I fitted an inertia switch in my fuel pump circuit, it feels as if it is something like a ball bearing held in place by a magnet. I think it came from a mondeo. Thankfully car fires after accidents are not that common. It's more likely you will see a car self ignite for some random electrical fault. Worth fitting a switch anyway though.

I think that's one of my weekends off so I will come at least to spectate if the wife doesn't arrange anything else. It is not far for me and I've always meant to go but never got round to it.

We heard you the first time. Or do you mean it's 16 wheeler

I use a charger conditioner which can be left on all the time although I generally just put it on periodically as I am a bit wary about leaving Electrics plugged in permanently. Probably just being over cautious but I do tend to see these things when they go wrong. Our pump went to a house fire caused by a mobile phone charger. Brand new house gutted from top to bottom.

I saw it and thought the same. It's almost there really. Looks like someone bought it not realising how much is involved. Still doesn't.

Loctite make several different strengths of thread lock. Have a look on their website, maybe all you need is a low strength one. I think they list the amount of torque needed to break the grip of the sealer when you undo fittings.

It does become a bit of downer but I find just walking away for a day and having a think about it helps the sanity

If you bought 32mm hose that would be the inside diameter of the hose and the outside of the metal fixing. At least that is the general rule I have found. Must be an easy way to remember, ie if it's hard measure it outside where nobody can see You!

Been trying to start my redtop after changing it with no success. I did have it running very briefly until I noticed an oil leak and it started very easily compared to the old engine. The next time I tried it coughed and spluttered a bit but would die as soon as I let go of the starter button. I thought it sounded as if it was too far advanced so I retarded the dizzy a little but no joy. It's had a new cap, rotor arm, the fuel is fresh and today I checked that the plugs were getting a spark through each lead and put fresh correctly gapped plugs in but now it won't even cough whatever position the dizzy is in. I thought it must be the timing and I have ordered myself a timing gun to see if that helps but I can't help thinking that I should have hit upon the right spot by now. Any ideas would be welcome

Good God man, Halfords! Are you mad. You'd be better off going to Clinton cards

As a postman I definitely know how he feels. It was getting dark here about 2pm.

I sent one of my old ones to dampertech for dave to measure so that there was no chance of a mistake. It only cost about 5 or six quid to send and was worth it for peace of mind. He has a quick turn around and seems to know his stuff. Surely he will want to replace both not just one, if one is shot the other can't be far behind. I changed both my springs as well for softer ones and it cost a couple of hundred pounds for the lot I think.

Haven't picked it up yet. I tried a brush out of an old rover dizzy but it still wouldn't run. Took the plugs out and they were wet and sooty so I cleaned and gapped them, they were a bit closed up but then the postman arrived with some new hoses for my sawbench tractor so I got distracted by that as I need the firewood cut up. I will try again tomorrow with the new cap if it's the correct one

Credit where it's due, they did manage to get my distributor cap in less than 24 hours. After I filled in that online survey as well,good job that didn't know about that. Truth hurts.

A useful bonus at halfords would be staff that know anything about cars who could work a computer.

It takes a long time for my car to warm up when it is just sitting in the shed idling. Don't forget that even if you sit there revving it that there is no load on the engine. If I go out it probably takes a quarter of the time or even less. I can see the stat open on the temperature gauge as the needle peaks and then drops to normal operating temperature.

How long is the offer valid for? I am looking for a new top chest having just got a second hand roll cab cheap

Not that stuka Bob?

They do work them hard on rolling road much harder than you normally would on the road. It will soon find any shortcomings with the engine but if ithe can stand up to a full power run on the rollers it should be OK on the road. Hope you remembered to pump up the tyres to avoid slippage, don't want want to miss out on any Horsepower!

Seems to be a fairly common problem although mine was the other way round with the engine cutting out as soon as it was started and the key released. Traced it to the ignition switch was a new one. This was on a six ton aircraft tug not a kit car though.

Like the one above. Typing getting slower now

The builder will have put it somewhere convenient for themselves as originally it was probably behind a panel in the passenger footwell or something similar. If it's the original ecu it will be a flat silver box with either a grey or white socket on it for your loom to plug in to. It will be a big plug too probably bigger than any other on the loom.

Keep any eye out on eBay, I got a stainless 4 into 1 westfield manifold for 60 quid. Granted I had to adjust the car to make it fit but I am prepared to do a lot of that if it saves me 500 quid. Get the old one fixed while you wait

Be good in a straight line. A big lump to hustle through the corner though, must weigh loads. Understeer is a word that springs to mind.

Have a look at what's recommended for the 2 litre zetec in the focus. You might find that space is an issue, if so then you will have to look for one that has the same spec and is the right size. It's like that with kit cars. The first question they always ask when you go to the auto spares shop is what's it For? Make sure the terminals are in the right place too. The zetec one should be adequate for your needs as you won't be running lots of electrical stuff normally and probably won't be expecting it to start in sub zero temperatures. If you think you have some sort of battery drain, charge it and then take the leads off until you next want to use it. That should tell you if it's the battery. And Welcome!