magh

I had my entire bonnet to remove the original white coating of last summer it only took 6 hours.

Keep it up love the grey/green

I Iva’d mine in June last year and no mot was mentioned. So I have an age related plate and the 3 year grace. Personally I would trailer the car to the Iva. You are travelling a long way a lot can go wrong and don’t forget there are other idiots on the road too. I didn’t want to risk not making the appointment as you loose the full fee and cannot rebook it.

I changed the resovoir on the ka master cylinder for I think it was a transit one which sat nice and lever and lower on total

Defiantly worth the dyno session plus you can get them to check the emissions then it’s one less thing to worry about at the Iva

Many people including myself don’t bolt them for that exact reason they crack. We bond them it’s how gbs Caterham etc still fix them now. I used tiger seal it’s a black pu adhesive widely used in car repair body shops and when it sticks it sticks. I first riveted some metal corner trim they use when plastering a house you give a larger bonding surface area. Then applied plenty of the tiger seal and sat the wings into the position I wanted them with supports and leave to set. For good measure I then ran some fibreglass on the underside of the arch and over the fixings to be safe. Hope me that helps. Mike.

I run standard Sierra front discs and rear drums but use the Ford ka servo. And it’s perfectly manageable.

If you also do a search I had a thread a few weeks ago about exactly this. Although I had some issues but there is some excellent fault finding and tips from long boarder and others on my thread.

That’s a great idea I shall fill it in and send it over as I don’t have a laminated once I get back from Asia.

Cheers Richy I did attend the year before last so if the pitch is going to be the same place I have a rough idea. Cheers

What pass will we need to be on the club stand. Hoping to make this on the Sunday will be the first show with the kit from completing the build.

So another update. After disassembling the motor every thing was fine including the raised part to activate the switch. I unclipped the switch from the motor body and pressed it in and the motor parked fine. Turns out the switch hasn’t been pulling into the motor body enough for the switch to park the motor. A couple of cable ties and job sorted. Thanks to all that’s helped.

The steering angle looks much better now

Wow what were they thinking. I mean fair play someone has put a lot of hours in but I’m not sure why lol

That’s great thank you I’ll pop the motor apart and see what’s what.

Yes that’s exactly how I’ve wired it and as you say when the stalk is in the park position 1235 have 0 volts when everything was disconnected from the motor The only thing I can think of is the park switch is stuck making contact therefore allowing a flow from 4 the ign live at the motor to flow through 2 the park wire to the stalks which is in the off position so connect the feed to the slow hence the motor running.

So a little update just managed to get some time in the garage. I disconnected the wires from the motor and connected my multimeter. I have the ign live, and earth. The slow feed is dead until activated on the stalk. And same with the fast. I connected the motor back up wire by wire. Earth and ign live then slow then fast. Every thing works brilliantly. The second I connect the park wire to the motor it just starts going by itself. I then pulled the park wire and checked for power and nothing so it must the the white plug on the motor and the park facility must be faulty that’s the only thing I can think of. Cheers Mike.

As the duck says there is exactly that it’s basically a T shaped trim about 8mm across the top by 30mm the other way those measurements are from memory not actual lol

right that makes perfect sense now and good shout on the perm live to motor. After I had ran the ign live to the motor I did notice there was a live in my loom which traces back to fuse 4 so I’ll check if that’s perm live which I suspect it is and just use that and remove the wire I installed. I thought that that the live to the motor was its main feed and the lives via the stalks were just used to activate the motor switches etc as the wires don’t look the thickest.

That’s awesome thank you gives me pleanty to go at. So do I actually require an ign live to both the motor and stalks? I have ran the majority of the cables myself. The ign live to the motor and stalks is direct as I did that. I also ran the park wire from stalks to motor. The only wires in the early gbs loom I have used is the slow/fast so connected them to stalks and motor and the earth at the motor end I shall try earthing the motor case but I suspect the issue lies at the stalks. Mike

So I have disconnected the ign live from the motor as at this stage is just on spade connectors. And it’s exactky the same. So the motor has the earth, park, slow and fast still connected. The only thing I’m questioning is if I’ve read the diagram correctly in that I have a wired a ign live to both the motor and the stalks but I’m sure that is correct. Should also state that this is a classic mini Lucas motor and 87bg Sierra stalks.

So I’m currently wiring in my wiper motor following longboarders diagrams and as soon as I turn the ignition on it’s starts working no matter where the stalk is unless I select fast then they speed up. Any ideas? Cheers

That or a company called opie oils he will advise what would work for you.

Looks good, keep it up

Post a photo up of your loom and I will let you know if it’s the same as mine. Mine was the early gbs loom that I used. Cheers mike.