colinmoore

Looks nice, but what price was he expecting, we all know you can't make a profit on a kit car!

Your a brave man Stu,love your cavalier approach, keep it coming.

Thanks Richy, that's reassuring, I was hoping it was't required.

Out With the old, and in withe the new. After a trial fit it was found that a few mods would be required, having opted for a cable clutch I found that the peddle box limits how far back the engine will go. Moving this back a tad plus a small cutout means that the engine/gearbox will sit one and a half inches (37 mm for you youngsters) further forward. This will mean further mods to gear lever and prop shaft, Another annoyance is that the reversing light switch sits right between the two chassis tubes, leaving little space for the connector, I think I will have to create a small flat in one of these tubes! I have made new engine mounts to suit using land rover rubbers, but have had to cut out the plough bar, has anyone found a way to put strength back in this area without putting a massive cross member under the engine?

Done the deed, purchased GSX-R thottle bodies on a manifold from Danst, and MicroSquirt to run it. Cheapest option, apart from running the bike carbs. Couldn't justify the outlay for Jenveys on an otherwise standard engine!

The Duratec cost me £575 off the bay, came complete with engine loom and manifolds, down as a 62k miler, not witnessed it running yet, but overall condition seems fine. I understand that these can go on for 150k if looked after. Incidentally am I correct in believing that he coolant flow runs in reverse of the normal expected direction, that is flowing out of the rear of the head, through the rad, and in at the thermostat housing. I also understand that a by pass is required between thermostat housing and rear of head?

Hi guys, looking for guidance from you knowledgeable crew. Tinkeritus demands that I change my aging Pinto in my 2B, for something a bit more modern. My wallet demands restraint! Any way I have bitten the bullet and bought a 62K Duratec from a Fiesta ST150, that was the cheap part. I have also purchased a cable clutch bellhousing for the type 9, and re-drilled the solid flywheel to take a pinto clutch. A lowered sump, and water rail have lightened my wallet considerably, the sump has come from Tiger racing, not as pretty as the raceline one but much cheaper. Now I am thinking about the fuelling, and ECU options, I need something that is not going to break the bank, but lets the motor run efficiently. BHP is not the end all in this instance, I will be happy to end up with the standard output (for now). This is where I need your advice, as I see it I have 4 options. Option 1, Fit the R1 carbs from the pinto, with a Danst manifold, and something like Megajolt for the sparks. This is the cheapest option I think, however I believe this is a backward step to take a fuel injected engine and fit carbs. Option 2, is to try and fit the single throttle body, and horrific manifold from the donor engine. I'm not sure if it would fit,(Pinto in car until winter shut down) and would probably require the engine to be fitted further forward, due to the position of the throttle body, also I would need to modify it to overcome the fly by wire throttle. Option 3, is to pay the ransom for ITBs, it's funny how throttle body kits seldom come with all the parts you actually need to run, i.e. fuel rails, throttle linkage, TPS, trumpets, to say nothing about injectors. Then I would need an ECU, like Megasquirt, Omex etc. Option 4, Danst engineering do a kit for bike throttle bodies with all the bits and pieces, plus an ECU to match at a more reasonable price. This last option is favorite at the moment, what do you think?

Hi Neil, I have discs all round, and the criteria for IVA is that the front brakes should lock before the rears. When I had my IVA at Southampton, I had fitted a classic mini restricting valve to the rear circuit, (the valve must not be adjustable) but on the rollers this showed too much restriction and was a fail (even though the rears were good enough to pass an MOT). I was advised by Andy, the IVA tester to fit the sierra proportion valve, which is basically a ball bearing in a can that under heavy braking rolls forward and closes off the rear braking port. This device however cannot be tested on rollers, as is only works with forward motion, and was tested by a emergency stop from about 25 MPH. There has been much discussion on this forum as to weather this device works, but I was advised to fit it which resulted in a pass.

I have now tried the mobile with Bluetooth earpiece, using navmii free app (thanks Alan) seems to work OK, but I can still hear the wife in the other ear, perhaps I need a full headset?

I use R1 carbs on my Pinto, with a low pressure facet pump. This pump runs all of the time regardless of fuel levels in the carbs. I opened the main jets to 1.7 mm. All ways needs choke on start from cold, and no throttle for the first 30 seconds.

When using the kit car, I often visit places I have never been to before, so I like to use Sat Nav as an easy way to get from A to B. I have found problems when trying to use my TomTom one. (1) With the satnav in my field of view I can't see the screen, because of the sun (it's usually bright when I take the Hood out). (2) Because of the near 100 db from the exhaust, I can't hear directions from the speaker, even on max volume (no earphone socket). I've thought about some kind of hood for the screen, but not tried it yet. Does any of you clever people have any solutions?

I fitted the original Yamaha rubbers to my R1 carbs, as they have a rib that locates in a groove on the inlet stub. Mind you I made my own inlet manifold with a groove to match the rubbers. I don't know if it is possible to cut a groove on a pre-made manifold.

Plus one for Blue 08, I've got a rattle can from car plan.

DVLA seem to be very inconsistent with the application of kit car rules, I must have really p***ed someone off with all my questions!

When I went through the registration process, I was advised that not only could I not choose my own vin, but I should get a registered motor factor to stamp the DVLA supplied vin into the chassis. They sent a returns form for the garage to stamp. I did the job myself, and got my friendly MOT station to stamp the returns form.

You are no longer allowed to make up your own number, I tried this in 2015. You need to apply to DVLA, and wait for the reply!

I think you will find that this is down to the jigs of RH manufacturing being none to accurate. The positive location is the front box section, and the floating rear mounts are packed with washers, or in my case purpose turned spacers. The spacers required on my 2B varied in size from side to side, and were made to suit.

Unfortunately these gauges use LED lighting, so no heat available to warm them.

After recently fitting a set of electronic gauges to my 2B I have noticed when taking the car out in the autumn sunshine that they mist up slightly inside the glass. Has anyone else had this problem and found a cure, I have thought about inserting small sachets of silica gel through the grommets where the dip switches are, but am weary of shorting out the delicate electronics?

Hi guys, I've just been on the insurance roundabout, having just got my renewal quote from Adrian Flux for my 2B, being £226 for myself, and two sons (both over 30) on a limited mileage, including breakdown. Not one to just accept what is offered I phoned A-plan and got a like for like quote down to £215. Still not happy I thought I would try the new guys 2Gether Insurance. Speaking to Joe, I had an experience I had not had before when dealing with insurance before. To prevent me wasting your, and my time what do you expect to pay, and what would it take to get you on board, was the question. Having had quotes from two main players, I thought, and came up with sub £200 would be good . After taking all my details he came up with a quote of £195 all in. At this point I accepted and signed on the dotted line, and then duly phoned Flux to cancel the automatic renewal of my policy, something I detest, but more insurance companies seem to be doing this. They say it's to give us customers piece of mind, and to prevent us going out uninsured, but those of us in the know, know differently. Anyway whilst cancelling the renewal, I was asked why I was leaving, I explained that I had a better quote elsewhere, and was then told about their guarantee to beat any like for like quote, this is something I already knew, but this is not how I work! Any way she insisted on sending me an updated quote, pointing out that I had a fourteen day cooling off period with the new company. This came in at £191 a £35 saving on the original renewal price. Sorry Flux too little to late. Why do insurance companies not give their best price first time, I know we all have to make a living, but even at their lower quote they are still making a profit. Wouldn't it be refreshing to go to an alternative insurer and hear "you've got a good quote there, and we can't beat it", doesn't happen does it? Iv'e also got the tin top insured with Flux, so I expect I'll go through the whole saga again.

There you go Alan, you've just got room to add an 8mm bolt to the right side of the central one, this will stop any possibility of the angle bracket rotating.

Unfortunately this is how Richard designed the wishbone front suspension, with a single bolt through this angle that bolts down through the "L" section of the chassis. On mine I drilled a second hole, using a second bolt. This will at least prevent rotation. Use bolts of at least 8.8, IVA demand at least 2 threads showing through lock nuts. You can weld this bracket, but must be done after correct shimming of the lower wishbone, the accuracy of this spacing varies from car to car, and indeed from side to side.

Yes, which is fastest, the one with the pinto, or the one powered by the 18 volt battery drill?

Since building, and getting the 2B road legal last November, I have been looking for a project to get me out of my wife's hair. I remembered an advert I had seen whilst searching "kit cars" on the web, and settled on building a Lightning swing bin racer for my Grandson. Now as a kit car owner, young Stanley wants to know if he Qualifies for club membership?

What with pinto power?