alantoon

Before you go changing to narrower tyres I would check the front pressures, the age of the tyres ( old or poor quality tyres can make a massive difference),Check and adjust the tracking, check ride heights, all these factors affect the way the car handles. Once you have checked all the basics then look deeper.

I am just about finished my rewire-I wish I had built my own loom, instead of using parts of the loom I had, spent more time trying to identify what the wires were for than actual wiring. Give yourself plenty time to do it, take plenty breaks and when you get really p***ed off do a different job for a couple of days then go back to it. My main trouble was I was trying to work out in my head how the circuit worked instead of just connecting the wires up. I would do it again-its 35 years ago that I rewired my rally car, so maybe in another 35 years.

The problem is that I haven't got a starting point, On one end of the dash I have a big clump of 25 wires to go to the fusebox, and the other end a clump of 15-20 wires to go to the column switches-None of the colours match up to the originals so it is going to be a nightmare to sort them out. The plan now is to strip the harness down and put my own loom together-I already have the engine loom sorted so it seems the best plan.

Thanks for your replies I didn't think they were anything important because I would have worked out where to fit them. I had already built a rear bulkhead so the bar isn't needed. I am sitting here looking at my wiring harness trying to work out the best way to fit it as I have no instructions and the end of each run of wires is a label with what it fits but I have no colour code for the wires. My plan at the moment is to unwrap the under dash wires then at least I will be able to follow the wires.

I have some bits from a 3A which I would be grateful if anyone could tell me what they are and where do they fit ?

You could go on Ebay and buy some of the Boy-racer flame stickers to put down the side . Could you not find a sticker to cover the affected area?

I am rewiring my car next week, I will let you know ???!!!!!!

I bought them on ebay they are Sealight 6000k bright white H4shttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALIGHT-12000LM-H4-H7-9005-H11-H1-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-6000K-Beam-Fog-light-Kit-/152042075143?var=&epid=1369281632&hash=item236669f407:m:mNFVSUASxJZRsDDDbaik1xA

I have used LED's for the last 6 month and found them excellent, once you get the hight set. Because they are so bright and our cars don't have much give in the suspension if they are set even slightly too high then you can see the road signs lighting up on dipped as you go over bumps. I would recommend them to anyone driving a 7 as the volume of light they give compensates for sitting so low down, and your altenator can cope better.

Sorry I just dug the box out of the shed and they are Sealight Bulbs 60000k Bright white .

I put some Philips LED bulbs in my Exmo halogen headlights and they are brilliant, they retail at about £50 for the pair but you can get them cheaper at times.

Thanks for the info, I managed to get one ok, Alan

Managed to find one on Ebay , many thanks for the reply - got it for £250 complete from a low mileage car but it is a 700miles round trip to pick up!!!!

I would be grateful if anyone can help, I need a replacement 16valve sprint head, I can get one from Rimmers but they are asking £150 +pp for a used bare head casting without any history.

Run out today by some present and some past members, Alantoon, BryanThesnail, Arte, and JohnRichardson

Sorry I wouldn't be able to make it really busy at the moment.

The 1600 heads with the same size inlet valves as the 2ltr are the ones fitted to the 1600 Pinto engined Mexico Escort cos thats the same spec as mine.

I can beat that for being a cheap-skate mine brakes are from the donor from 20 years ago and have never been replaced, car stops well on Sierra m/c and no servo. I tend not to use the brakes they just slow you down.

Have you tried taking a plug out after you have been trying to see if they are wet or dry that would give an indication whether fuel has evaporated or drained back. A friend has fitted an electric pump to start from hot as he wasn't getting fuel when hot-once it stearts he switches the pump off .

How do you start the car when hot, with or without throttle, short burst of starter or churn on till it starts, does it try to fire or just dead ---more info needed please.

A cheaper version of the tie-bar is to use the anti roll bar, mine is an Exmo but it has the same bottom arm anti roll bar set up,, but where the roll bar is fitted to the body the roll bar is cut and a thick washer is welded on to the bar on each side of the mounting to stop the bush pulling out. I have put yellow poly bushes in the track control arm and the now tie bar and it is superb. The car has done 50,000 miles with this set up without any problems so I can highly recommend it. If you want a photo let me know and I will get one sorted out.

If it was the clutch release bearing you can usually hear it on tickover if you dip the clutch in and out-I have the cure for the noise fit a silencer without baffles like mine and you wont hear anything at 50-70

It would all depend on which S7 you have there is a Triumph based S7, a Cortina one and the Sierra one all with different suspension.

No Lee, its on twin Dellorto 40 DHLA carbs, I think the engine will just be gunged up with all the short journeys and standing around its done, as far as I can see it has done less than 5000 miles since it was registered in 1992 !!

Thought would try posting a picture