alanrichey

No problem. A bit surprising though, I thought all V5s had to have the engine numbers recorded.

A very good point. Before posting a question you really should do a search to see if the answer has been given before (90% chance it has ). You have to be specific though, if you just search for Superspec then you get 2000 posts. If you search for Superspec clutch you get 5,600. But if you search for "Superspec clutch" (Note the inverted commas" you will get 21 posts all of which are essential reading.

William: If you let me know your engine number (it's on the V5) I can tell you what Rover model the engine was originally destined for. Makes ordering spares a lot easier.

No idea, I have never had to change mine so don't know what the thread is. This what they look like

No problem. we have enough information on the Superspec to write a book so don't hesitate to ask if something isn't clear. I would also suggest you read my blog (link in the signature) which details everything I have done in the 6 years I have had mine, much of which is fixing design faults.

Top ones are Transit Drag Link, freely available on E-Bay. Bottom ones are Peugeot, QH part QSJ972 or QSJ972S (http://www.eurocarparts.com/search/617545005) I've attached a spreadsheet that covers all the parts we have figured out so far. Superspec Parts List-AR.xls

My indicators and hazards use individual relays, so when some water got into the indicator relay and they stopped working, the hazards still operated.

Me

Not likely. I used a T-piece to drive an oil gauge and a pressure switch. You just have to make sure the connectors are correct size. The Rover engine uses M10, not sure about the Pinto. (Just search Amazon for 'oil pressure t'

Afraid not, but it is a standard Sierra propshaft, so I guess they can be found.

The full title of our car is "Robin Hood 2B Superspec" Maybe with a "05" after. So we are talking about the same model.

Andy and I both have the same filter but in different places. Just follow the fuel lines through the tunnel and to the engine and you should find it. As Andy said, the filter is NOT a clear plastic one, it is a metal canister about 6” long and 3” diameter.

I told you in my post, check the MAP (Inlet pressure) and see if it behaves as I described. Disconnecting the battery will kill some of the memory but the important stuff is held in non volatile memory so isn’t lost. The fuel filter is where the original builder put it, there is no stock answer. i really can’t help more until you run MEMSScan or MEMSLogger on a decent journey and post the log file.

Does anything show up on MEMSAnalyser ? Check the MAP, You should see 3-6 psi at idle climbing to 15 psi under load.

Looking good, we all learnt from that Now we just need to see your log file from MEMSScan

I recall seeing a SuperSpec kit (unfinished) where the bottom of the rear coilovers went through a specially drilled hole that was offset from the 'dish' in the trailing arm. On the other hand mine are perfectly lined up with the 'dish'. Maybe there are different designs of training arms ?

No need for a relay, those are for high power applications (horn, lights, fan....). The coil will be low power so a direct feed is sufficient.

I did a search for the Escort Mk7 instrument cluster and it suggested that Pin 18 is an ignition switched live (output). So I guess that makes sense if that is the primary source of power to the coil. It also explains why I couldn't find it linking to anything as it probably connects internally to the 12V ignition input to the cluster. You have probably burnt out part of the circuit board. You just have to find the gap and solder a jump wire. Or, if you can't find what has burned out all you need is an alternative source of ignition-switched live and join that to the coil.

Cable in the post. Once installed you will be able to test the 2 relays using software. Not sure if you know already but the data port is a floating 3-pin plug near the ECU with a rubber cap.

This is an interesting point. I initially assumed it was something to do with the rev counter, but when I got a spare instrument cluster I drew up a diagram for the printed circuit board on the back. At first check that pin does not appear to be connected to anything on the cluster. That doesn't make much sense (although this a Robin Hood we are talking about ). I didn't follow it up (if it ain't broke don't fix it), maybe I should. Because the Fuel pump doesn't run when the ignition is switched on I still think the problem lies with either the Fuel Relay (I had one fail on me), or the ECU Relay. As I said before, if you can hear the stepper motor operating and the ECU relay switching off 10 seconds after the ignition is switched off then the problem is the Fuel Relay If not then it is the ECU relay. And swapping each one with the Horn Relay (which is what I did), will solve the problem.

I see you have a 'crash' switch in the circuit to isolate the fuel pump. Might you have knocked it ? It is a couple of inches long, with 2 wires going in one end and a rubber-covered push switch on the other end. It's bottom left on my electric board, underneath the 2 relays, Just in case

Thanks from me as well for all the organisation. Nice day.

That's a bit odd. I actually took my car to a Show without any dashboard or any of the instruments. I just labelled it "Under Construction". I can't think of anything in the cluster that would prevent it starting (depending on how it's been modified) As Andy said, the first thing is to listen to the fuel pump to see if it runs for 2 seconds when you switch the ignition on. As you don't hear anything that probably means that the power to either the ECU relay of the Fuel Pump relay has gone. The second thing to do is listen very carefully when you turn the ignition off. You should hear a series of clicks as the idle stepper motor returns it to start position and after about 10 seconds a definite click as the power is removed from the ECU relay (The ECU remains powered up for a few seconds after the ignition is turned off, to allow a bit of housekeeping. And try swapping the 2 relays with a known good one (I use the horn relay) I'll get the diagnostic lead in the post as soon as I can as that should highlight the problem.

Yes, that looks fine. As Andy said, it's long enough to go round the front of the engine. It's important to avoid the exhaust manifold when it is installed, I use a couple of cable ties to keep it away from the pipes.

That's good news about the MOT. Still might be useful to run my diagnostic program though. If you PM me your address I can pop my spare data lead in the post to you. Meanwhile I'll send you a copy of the software so you can play around with it.