rthomas69

Alan, If they're still available at Stoneleigh I'll take them off your hands if only to replace the lock nuts & threaded sleeves on mine (already have 130lb springs fitted). Once mine is finally on the road (in the year 201x or possiblr 202x) I will upgrade to something a bit better as it seems a bit excessive spending out loads on shocks at this stage with so many other parts still required. Cheers Rich

A lot of the fords during the 80s & 90s used the same alternators (as did many industrial vehicles) - always used to blag them off my dad from his fork truck business

Why waste vital horse power spinning one of those fans all the time, electric will only run when needed

I think you'll find that most F1 wiring is soldered joints into military spec connectors (well that's what we use, apart from large high voltage connectors which are a form of crimped connector). A proper soldered joint is far better than a crimped joint.

There is one on the sierra parts & cars for sale group on facebook

Sounds like a sierra one, there is a metal clip that fits around a plastic nipple that holds it onto the ball.. Might have a spare one in the garage as I have a cut down one fitted to my 45's, I'll have a look tonight. They are only only about a tenner on evilbay though. Rich

Thanks, sounds simple enough. Already have the oil pressure hose & t bar connector & have a spare fuel sender to have a play around with.

I think that's what mine is in the picture

Thats a good price...shame I've already bought one..... Is there anything to look out for when fitting these i.e. is it pretty much plug & play (I know the wiring is slightly different & I've got the details of which wire is which), thinking more along the lines of fuel gauge, speedo calibration etc? Rich

Is it one like this (attached pic)? If so how much as mine had a small leak which I've plugged but don't know how ling it will last. Cheers Rich

I guess this is something I have to look out for when my 3A is finally built. Although I have already done the tie bar conversion & have fitted 130lb springs (£20 evilbay bargain)

Has anyone got or know where I can get the main wiring plug for a capri instrument cluster (with a couple of inches of wire attached to splice into another loom) Thanks in advance (hopefully) Rich

Thanks for the advice everyone but I've decided against this idea, not because of the potential legalities but more to do with the benefit of having a 'q' plate when it comes to emissions - don't think the race 2.1 pinto running 45's will get through particularly easily

I don't have the 9" shoes but I do have a set of 8" (new still in the box)

£20 posted

Seems to be plenty come up on evilbay but usually have the 'cosworth' tax added, but occasionally some bargains (got both myself for about 20 quid)

Not sure what the springs are (came with the car), it looks like several other series 3's I've seen & the car has no weight in the back as its on axle stands. I'll have a play with ride height when it's closer to being finished.

Right taken on board all the comments/suggestions and after a bit of trimming had to cut the lug off that sits on the top edge of the tub (need to tidy the edges a bit), then make a simple bracket to attach to the return on the bottom edge of the arch to attach it to the body, then job done....well got the other side to do. That didn't take long so I thought I'd offer up the Capri clocks that turned up today

It's on axle stands although I gave a jack under the wheel lifting it slightly off the stand, so it's pretty much how it sits on the ground, It will sit slightly when everything else is fitted, a full tank of fuel (& my lardy ar$e in it)

I'll have a go at 'persuading' the arch into a better position tonight.

I've had another look & have taken some photos. Wheel arch gap looks like it is about 20mm out. If I move it forward 20mm the rubber mounting bush will just about touch the folded angle that runs from side to side, so just about ok. However the inner suspension arm mounting points are only about 10mm from the back of the tub so would only allow that much movement. Prop also looks like it should be a further 20mm further in looking at the clean part sticking out the back of the gearbox.

I'll take a photo tonight (got similar gap above the wheel as yours Paul looking at the photo's you sent me) I think it's one of those things that if I don't correct it now it will bug the hell out of me in the future. As per your previous advice Paul I have already strengthened the boot floor/diff mount & tied it all in with the roll bar & triangulated seat belt mounts. It looks like I'll be re-drilling the mounting points & moving them forward (also means a mod to the seat base frames where I've been 'creative' around the beam mounts). On the plus side it will give me a bit more propshaft engagement into the gearbox (doesn't look far enough in to me).

I'm in the process of building a 3a which was started but not progressed very far & then stood for 15+ years before me obtaining it. I've just refurbished the rear beam,suspension, rear disc conversion etc & have noticed that now it's all back together that the rear wheels sit towards the back of the arches by about 20mm & it looks like the only way to correct this is to move the whole rear beam etc forward. Did anyone else have a similar issue? If so did you just re-drill the mounting holes further forward?

This is a good place to start regarding setting up webbers - http://www.dvandrews.co.uk

I currently don't have a donor for my RH as I bought it with some of the parts already fitted (although possibly 20 years ago) & the rest I have sourced, therefore it would end up on a Q plate which I know has its advantages but no option for a personal plate. However I have been offered a sapphire shell/log book. Could I put my name on the log book, then get the engine number changed for the one on my 2.1 pinto & therefore scrap it & use that as my 'donor'??? Rich