nelmo

Whoah, that's a full-on restoration job you've got there - good luck!

A great day out, thanks for sorting out lunch, Derek. Full details and BAFTA-quality video here: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2022/04/whats-that-smell.html

Ah no, I assumed you were given the route when you paid? Is New Lodge Farm the official halfway stop? I think I remember that....

Thanks Derek... please don't wait for us anywhere, we've got a long way to come and I can't promise to get there on time. At worst, we'll be at the Bell for 2pm.

Will it be possible to add my son into the lunch booking?

Well, wherever your earth is - my dash gauges all have a common earth wire which presumably eventually goes to the chassis earth.

That's interesting - very central, we're normally stuck out on the edges...

Are you keeping the original inlet manifold or changing to the GBS plenum/TBs? On my blacktop, I never reused those sensors as the GBS plenum has a hole for the air temp sensor and the water temp sensor went through my thermostat. Fan is controlled by the ECU. But if you do want to use them, I'd imagine polarity is not important - they just work by changing resistance between sensor and ground, I think, so either way is probably fine.

So squeezing pipes didn't help BUT while I was squeezing, I noticed that coolant was dripping out underneath. I knew I had a slight leak but I hadn't been able to find the source, until now, so that's good. Leak is just because the jubilee clip seems to have stripped it's thread and won't tighten enough, so replacement on order. And maybe the leak at that point is somehow affecting the sensor? It's not a huge leak, so seems unlikely but we'll see...

Is that done with the engine/ignition on?

OK, I'll have a go at squeezing the pipes (I haven't got space to turn the adaptor)...thanks...

The sensor is brand new and seems to work - I put it in a glass of hot water and it's resistance changed from 500 ohms to 90 ohms, which seems to be in the correct range for the gauge?

Ok, good idea... Will try those... thanks...

It always worked before and I don't think I'd have the space to do that and it would probably leak. I tested the gauge by connecting the sensor wire to the earth on the adaptor and the needle went round to max temp, so that suggests it is a good earth, no?

My voltmeter gauge has been slowly dropping over the last few months - used to show 14v when revving but now down to 13.3v. I'm thinking possibly the problem is that the alternator bracket to engine interface maybe has some corrosion/rust and the earth is worse than it was? Before I take that all apart, I was thinking of testing it by just putting a temporary earth wire from the alternator body to the engine block. Does anyone know if that will need to be a chunky/braided earth wire or will any bit of old wire do? I know there's always a lot of current with alternators but I'm not good enough with electrics to be sure...

hmm, no, removing the tape didn't help - I think it must be something electrical. I'll try run a separate new wire from the sensor to the dash gauge, see if that works...

A slight warning with that fabric loom tape - I used it and it is very good BUT almost too good. It's incredibly difficult to take off once on. If you use it, try not to put it near the wire ends where you might want to strip it back one day.

Looks nice and neat - personally, I would put some loose rubber tubing over those bare wires, as close as you can to the relays and fuse boards, just for some extra heat and vibration protection.

Truly sad and very sudden? He seemed to be really enjoying his new life messing about in boats. I met him a couple of times, someone fully commited to his car, the club and a great example to me, a newbie at the time. RIP Sir

Not sure it will help but these are mine: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2015/12/mounting-excitement.html?m=0

You'll only need a demister if you fit a full hood and doors. I have a half-hood and doors and never got steamed up - far too much airflow through the cabin for that to be a problem.

I had the number 325 welded (literally made by a welder in the metal) in my chassis when it first arrived - I assumed that meant it was the 325th Zero at the time (2015 delivery)? My proper VIN number was given to me by the DVLA when I first applied for the IVA test, although I know you definitely used to be able to make up your own.

Darn - OK, thanks... I don't think I had it on the original sensor but it leaked a little with the new one, hence the tape. I'll take it off and try again...

I have my coolant temperature sensor (just for the dash gauge - the ECU sensor is elsewhere) installed using an adaptor like this. The gauge on the dash stopped working recently, so I started by just swapping out the gauge but that made no difference. I also changed the sensor, initially for the wrong one (lets gloss over that) but I now have the correct Smiths sensor and I have tested it on the bench - it correctly reads around 500 ohms when cold and 40 ohms when at 90 degC or so. I also confirmed this when it was installed in the car. However, my gauge is still not working - the needle moves a small amount now (just about registers, showing 40 degC when it should be 90). If I short the sensor wire to that earth on the adaptor, the gauge needle does shoot round to maximum, which tells me the gauge, the earth and the wiring is OK? I do have PTFE tape on the sensor on that adaptor - could that be causing the problem? Any other ideas?

You seem to be viewing the mobile site - are you doing this on a phone? If you click on the vertical dot menu (top-right), one of the options is to view the desktop site which will give you the view others have posted. However, your screenshot of the portal screen has a scroll bar on the right, which suggests you can scroll down further - the member map option is next under 'Leaderboard'.