phaeton

Sold but I do not appear to be able to edit the post

Bought just before I sold my kit, stands me at £60 with a brand new set of bushes included, but willing to let them go a bit cheaper if somebody wants them, collection from Worksop or postage at cost.

Although @richyb66 is sort of right you need to check your own car insurance & see whether your kit on a trailer being towed would be covered on your existing policy, if it's not than it maybe prudent to insure it separately.

I would have loved to come up, but I'm changing 2 UPVC windows & doing some cladding tomorrow, hiring a cherry picker so doubt I will finish in time. But if it's on & I do, then I will try to get there, assuming the MOT goes well today

With the Freestyle (picture in avatar) roof, doors, screen weren't an option, so I went with https://www.jsaccessories.co.uk/buy/frank-thomas-monsoon-wp-oversuit-black/45846.htm along with a leather flying helmet, goggles & gloves. The helmet, goggles & gloves were standard driving wear, the suit & motorcycle helmet only came out when it got bad, do you go straight into the office, or do you go to your digs first, just thinking can you get changed before going into work?

Towed the car to the Rolling Road on the slightly dubious A-frame but we won't discuss that occifer, he started with a cold compression test, 180,175,190,185 then stripped & rebuilt the carb, then put it on the rollers to play with the furling & timing, he set it at 9 degrees & managed to get an extrapolated 107bhp at 4200rpm runs very nice now, £80 well spent I think. Just need to get an MOT on it now, I've been over it & can't see any thing wrong, might just have a quick look at the back brakes over the weekend the handbrake isn't too good, so maybe just adjust the shoes, once I have that it's gong to have to go on ebay as I am loosing my garage which I intended to store it in. It doesn't deserve to live outside through winter.

No it just wouldn't go above 1200rpm at all, but on Wednesday afternoon/evening (I think) I reset the tappets, rechecked the float, blew out the main jets, changed a fuel filter after the pump, the one before the pump seemed okay, reset the timing. Kept my grandson & granddaughter entertained with the popping & banging & flames shooting out of the carb. But after resetting everything it seemed to run okay only did about a mile as no MOT, I took it last night over to a guy who's going to put it on a rolling road today to setup properly.

No they have to be dry, oil/grease stops them working correctly bizarrely

Don't have any images do you?

Thanks I did think that but wanted to be sure, I'll stand aside

For a Zetec?

Oh Dear how stupid do I now feel, I even watched a Youtube showing me how to do it & then did it completely different, TBF the last time I did the tappets on a Pinto would be late 70's. I had to buy a new set of feeler gauges as I couldn't locate the 2 sets I know I should have 'somewhere' but they wouldn't fit under the tappets so I even got the angry grinder out to make them. Not sure I will ever live this one down, however I'm sure as my dementia gets worse I'll forget about it so won't care when you point your fingers at me & snigger Alan..

Got myself some tie bars, with it being a 2B4 with round tubing what have people done about mounting the box section for the rose joint to the chassis?

I went to get new ones, although they look new already, they didn't have any in stock, but several people had a gander at them & we're all convinced they are fine. I'll try to get them though

Spoke too soon, it was going for MOT tomorrow so put the bonnet on & decided just to run up road. Got to end of road & then it would rev couldn't get it above 1200, then it started popping & banging exactly as before.

Is the body to engine strap in good condition, might be worth cleaning the terminals & checking they are tight, can you also get a video of it when in position? Also look at the teeth on the flywheel, because of compression it does tend to stop in 1 of 4 places end time. Edit:- Just another thought take the plugs out & try to see if it will spin the engine over then without as much pressure on.

It can't spin the same way if connected or else the flywheel would turn, assuming it's not taken the teeth off the flywheel. The suggest was to check both the live & the earth to make sure that when under load it's getting full 12V

Check your earths & lives

That's interesting as I have a Flutra fuel pump http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/flutra-competition-fuel-pump-2-4-4-psi-50-litres-hour-282/ which runs all the time when the ignition is on, so much so I've put a switch under the dash to switch it off whilst I've been working on other things with the ignition on. I wasn't aware there was anything 'intelligent' about them to switch off once pressure was achieved.

It's the older 2 wire system, spring loaded brushes running on the back of the boss adapter, there was 3 bolts holding the 2 parts of the adapter together, they were a bit long & must have been connecting with the wire at the back of the horn press. Cut the bolts shorter & added in some extra insulation, but as usual last thing to do was push the horn push back onto the housing, got it slightly wrong & broke one of the fixing legs off! So at the moment you have to press the metal strip to get the horn to work until I get a new one.

Okay so now the engine is running okay(ish) the next problem stopping MOT is the horn, it likes to sound when it wants to, often turning the steering wheel, sometimes leaning on the wheel & bizarrely enough if you undo the steering column height lever. It has a relay right at the front of the chassis, I took the boss adaptor & can see 2 terminals which run on 2 rings on the back of the adaptor. Can anybody tell me if it switches to earth or switches to live & any idea what colour wire I'm looking for?

I think after many red herrings we're getting somewhere, checked the tappets, they're all good, all valves moving as they should, although the brand new feeler gauges had to be modified Then checked the timing All good, Took the top off the weber to make sure the float wasn't stuck, the B******D R clip was a right PITA to get back n After which it was exactly the same!! I was looking at the plugs as they'd sooted up again, Unipart, so I said to my wife, I'm going to go get a new set of plugs, it won't be them, but there's nothing else to change, so nipped to the local car spares & got a set of NGK's £8 for 4 plugs, put them in, started first throw of the key, purred away nicely, went up the road occasional pop but nothing drastic, came back leaned the fuel off 1/4 turn, up road, better, 1/4 turn, now runs nice, still a little hesitant are 2K trimmed the timing from 10 to 8 degrees now seems all okay. Still may take it to the Rolling Road on Friday let him set it up properly, he's match the jets to the engine, but a lot happier now.

Right still fighting, pulled off the camcover & at TDC I have the cam in the right place, the dizzy is however 180 degrees out if it should be pointing to the front of the car & be closest to the cambelt. Either way to stop it catching on the block I turned it 90 degrees & then moved the leads to suit. It runs a lot better, I think it's at 10 degrees but my timing light went on the blink, it's one with a dial at the back to dial in degrees & it seems to have stopped working. But the engine runs a lot smoother, but I still have overfueling problems, plugs come out full of soot, trying to accelerate has flames coming out of the carb. There's a tuner about 5 miles up the road I may admit defeat & for £60 let him sort it.

Is this feed within the steering column shroud, I was trying to find a feed the other day in a junction about 18 inch from the steering column & struggling.

Sorry Peter I asked last night & he doesn't think he can help, but as others have said I would be checking with DVLA as this is the first time I have ever heard of it. Maybe also ask on the locostbuilders, but several members here have gone through fairly recent IVA's but I understand your concern. Alan..