miikae

I also use my local family owned garage for my cars and bikes and who are all car nuts, the owners son is just finishing off a Challenger E type , i nearly always drive mine on the ramps and operate the controls , plus they ar sympathetic to kit car problems and will let you fix it three and then if possible. He is quite a way north of you though being in Horncastle. I would suggest that you ask around to find a good local garage who knows kit cars. Mike

I'd have thought possbly crank oil ways not thourghly cleared of swarf if it has been reground or even a dodgy oil pump, all assuming you had enough good oil in there to start with. It would have had to certainly been massive over fuelling bordering on hydraulicking if that was the case in my opinion. I have rebuild many engines over the years both bike and car engines and i've never had any problems what so ever like you have experienced. Mike

It was his Quick release steering wheel boss that had not locked on properly, all should check there's if they have one fitted before driving off, as this happened to me once and only once i might add and with no bad outcome , i was only moveing he car from the road to my drive at the time but it still made the nether region twitch a wee bit. Mike

I saw the initial post about that accident when everyone was wondering who it was, he posted a week or so later to say it was him , the pics say it all really as the roll cage strenthening must have helped alot. Mike

I looks to me like the connector that the lonely bullet terminal connects into has burt out completly, where there any bits of it knocking about in there by any chance? Mike

Try - Wright Engineering Company (Nottingham) Ltd. Colwickwood works, Colwick Road, Nottingham NG2 4BG Tel: 0115 9502284 Fax: 0115 9484967 E-mail: enquiries@wright-engineers.co.uk Mike

Try your local ford dealer as they should have them high tensile bolts in stock. Mike

1 electric pump , say Facet and fuel pipe 2 relay 3 inertia cut out switch or some such to be safe 4 switch for turning pump on/off manualy 5 cable to wire it all up 6 possibly a pressure regulator/fuel filter to bring the pressure down to approx 2.5 psi for carbs 7 ignition 12v supply 8 seperate fuses for both pump power circuits 9 the will to do it 10 finding the time And bob's your uncle Brum Brum and away yee go Mike

Send him a message via ebay an ask him if he has any bubble screens available , he may even do you a better deal direct. The transit arches are another line of his. Mike

Thats the fella Tombob5 Mike

I have just had a quick look on the bay for the bubble screens and the seller may be on his hols as he usualy sells transit front wing finnishers also and none on there either at the mo, also i can't remember his seller name . Mike

Progressive spring info Mike

I think that you are reffering to Progressive Springs, there is a company by that name who make springs for motor bikes & i think that they may do car springs too , i will have a look see and post a link if i can find one. Mike

Tracey Tools have been the best souce of taps & dies for years now , i last got all my BSF taps & dies from them when rebuilding my old Triumph T100 SS, they are good for the odd left hand threads also. I think that they must be alot bigger now than when i bought my stuff. Mike

Well done Alex, keep smileing and take it steady until you get used to it, as they can and will bite you if your not carefull, especialy in the wet. Mike

Both my fuel lines are copper and they both run inside down through the passenger side outer floor edge, i will only use rubber pipe as a straight joiner now due to the bend perrishing problems i have had in the past, my return pipe is only used as a tank breather. I am not a great believer in routeing fuel pipes down the tunnel where there are moving parts that could go wrong. Mike

I dont think it's a RH as the screen looks too high and too square at the corners, but even so thats down to the builder i suppose. Mike

Well mine is fitted in the pipe that comes from the water pump. Mike

I fitted 4 Louver vents to my bonnet sides some time ago to help get rid of heat from the engine, by assisting the escape and help the through put of warm air from the radiator , the Louver vent infront of the carbs i faced forward to duct freah air straight to the carbs, the back of this vent needed the back end frame grinding off somewhat to allow a more direct air flow to the carbs. Also added some filter mesh to the inside of carb vent. The vents i used do take up a bit of room on the inside of the bonnet though, approx 25mm which is not ideal in all installations. They are the 4 Louver marine vents i got from The Pirates Cave in Rochester Kent. They are the same as the ECS ones but with the 4 Louver vents Mike

An electrical wholesaler or a local electrician , as they do them in plastic or the orange Pyro p clips that are metal with a plastic coating that i used at work and some ended up on the car Mike

I too got mine off ebay and it has a soft internal lineing , also bought some 10 mtrs of 8mm bungy cord and made 2 5mtr ones together with hooks off some old u/s bungy straps works a treat in high winds and stops it flapping. Mike.

Congratulations. As already mentioned take it steady at first on dry roads and even more so if its wet, caution being the watch word for a while as they can bite and will if not muzzled. Mike

Hi Paul, i would suggest that you either get GBS to modify the manifold or you get a friend to mod it for you to start with and then see how the carbs perform, if it was me i would do it myself as then it would be as i wanted it, whether it worked or not in the end, as it has cost you far too much already in my opinion. I was thinking of taking the 4 carbs of my old Kwaker but dont think i'll bother now, even thought of going old skool and fitting 4 Mono block Amals or even 4 -1 1/8" SU's but its all room for thought as i will just stay with my DCOE 40s as they are doing a good job at the moe. Mike

Nice one Al , i bet thats cheered you up no end , you deserve a big drink now eh Mike

After a wee bit of searching i came up with this info Ford part no F6118746 described as a "plug - magnetic type" Cost approx £5.00. Thread possibly M18 fine. HTH Mike