richyb66

Booking updated last night to suit the revised numbers, see you all there.

An adapter plate would be a last resort. The m/c will already be close to the upper steering column support tube so I'd prefer not to extend it further rearwards. The reservoir on the Ka cylinder is quite high so it comes close to the scuttle which will make filling it more difficult and the angle of the pedal box means that it wont sit level. I can remove the reservoir but it doesn't look like it will led itself to a remote one very easily.

I'm fitting a GBS pedal box. What are my options for master cylinder? I'm tight for space so remote reservoir would help and makes the installation angle less critical. I've tried a Sierra m/c but it's a bit long and at 22mm bore, probably a bit big.I've also tried a Ka one but the reservoir is too high and it won't bolt on without much opening out of the pedal box. Are different Ka ones available, current one has mountings at 95mm centres and 75mm would be ideal.

You must have blended in seamlessly.

Jeez, a Canned Heat vest on a passport photo. Are you sure you were mentally competent to travel overseas?

Look forward to meeting you.

39 people booked in, that's one more than last year!!

OK, I've made the booking for 35 and we've got 38 so far. If anyone else wants to join us they're welcome. I'll phone the venue early next week and adjust the booking numbers so they've got enough food in to feed us all!

Looking again, the driveshafts are less important as I can buy them new for the cost of a pair of Lobro joints. What I'm mostly after is the rear hubs and wheel flanges. From memory the hubs come in 2 different sizes to suit either 100mm or 108mm Lobro joints.I need the bigger ones, 2WD Cossy and some 4x4 Sierras.

Go for something substantial then. No-one ever regretted making brake hose mountings too substantial.

Oops. Don't be too hard on yourself, sometimes the simplest cause is overlooked. Main thing is it's sorted now and was probably a very easy fix.

You need something more substantial than a penny washer on the inside of the panel otherwise the hose will flex the fitting and distort the panel - especially if the panes are aluminium. You need a larger spreader plate or, like on my 2B, I made a bracket out of some 2mm steel about 40mm wide and mounted it between two of the chassis tubes behind the panel. Think how rigid the mounting bracket for a flexi hose would be on a normal car - that's a good think to aim for.

I'll never look back on my life and say "I wish I'd watched more tv"

You're welcome to come for a chat Mark. You definitely won't be force fed.

Wednesday 27th January 2016 is our annual post Christmas lunch. Same format as previous years and at our usual monthly venue The Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Nr Stonebridge, Coventry, CV7 7HL https://maps.google....=classic&dg=brw To keep the table bills simple, most people normally opt for the carvery but other options are available: http://www.tobycarvery.co.uk/restaurants/midlands/stonebridgeislandmeriden/carvery Meet up from 7PM onwards and aiming to eat around 7-30 but latecomers can still get fed if they can't get there that early. I like to give the pub a rough idea of the headcount a few days before the event so if interested parties let me know, I'll start a list. last year we got around 40 people so we filled the top dining area, if we get more people we'll either squeeze up a bit or take up more of the main dining area. Everyone welcome (including ladies and kids) and new members are especially welcome. ATTENDING Richard and Jackie Stu and Sarah Steve, Dee and Paige Dean and Nikki Alex and Katie Andi, Clare and Jasper Martin, Isabelle, Karen, Jeff and Lynden Steve, Rosemary, Rebecca and Queenie Zach and Tesni Keith Alan Graham, Dot, Vic and Rita Jez Dan +2 Bob H Gaz and Carol Trevor Jake and James

I need everything to be as compact as possible because space is very tight so I can't really have any rag joints in the shaft. Having had a good trawl on the net, the closest I can find to the CBS part is a TR7 shaft which isn't any cheaper. My best (cheapest) option at the moment looks like using shafts that are splined at each end and then use Classic Range Rover UJ's between the parts. So from the bottom of the Sierra column I'll use a new triangle to spline UJ, then a splined shaft, then an RR UJ, another splined shaft and finally another RR UJ to connect to the rack. The intermediate shaft will then need separately supporting which I can do using a couple of rose joints.

Anyone know what this shaft is used on originally? Obviously CBS sell them for kits but they must have originally been used on something else. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/steering-column-link I might need 2 of them, or possibly not, in which case £65 each is an expensive punt just to have a look so if I can get the cheaper (or second hand to see if they work), I'd be a bit happier.

Could be a lot if work just to fit a cheap engine. Personally I'd stick with the Pinto or go Zetec.

Never mind the spider, is that the shadow of your cock in the picture?

Deceleration valve makes no difference at IVA because the car is tested on static rollers so doesn't experience any G force when braking.

It doesn't specify the core thickness - thicker core = more cooling. Standard Cortina rad is 2 core, Coolman rad in 4 core (I think) so has much better cooling capacity (more surface area and water capacity), and obviously dearer to make.

Single fixing is ok as long as when the harness is under load, it doesn't pull tight on the seat and put load into the seat frame. As Bob says, pictures would help and 2 per belt will probably give you a better chance of not loading the seat frame.

I've got the GBS seats in my 2B, the vinyl started rip around the harness holes, I took the upper cover off at the weekend and stitched some additional vinyl the holes and while I was at it, I also made some map pockets and stitched them on to the back of the seat. If you take the cover off, take some photos of how it's all held together, It's a mix of hog rings, elastic loops and wire (some of which you may need to cut).

Clutch diaphragm http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=32315

Wednesday 27th January