speedtripledan

We have a milling machine at work which is now unusable due to all the guarding !!!

In my latest quest for perfection i have now bought a a retro ford water rail, it is a very nice bit of kit, very nicely made. i have tried fitting it today and come across a few problems with fitment. The original ford dip stick tube is in the way of the rail and the original coil pack bracket is also in the way! So i ring burtons who supplied it (cheaper than retroford direct) and they knew about the coil pack issue, apparently retro ford have a bracket to relocate it under the intake, no use to me with a bloody great super charger hiding under there, no mention whats so ever in the product description on retro or burtons websites. So i have now had to fabricate a new bracket to mount the coil. The dip stick tube is slightly easier to deal with just needs a simple bracket to secure it off my alternator mount and spinning the tube round in front of header 1 instead of through 2 and 3 as original. So if you do decide to use one be prepared for hours of mods and fabrication to relocate the above mentioned parts. If i had been fore armed with this info i wouldn't have bothered and gone standard ford housing.

Sounds good to me. As usual thou depends on dates

Can you not ask the supplier ?

I did fancy it but car isnt ready

What sizes jets you need is guess work, I used fireblade carbs on my pinto with 1.40mm mains standard idle jets and blocked air correctors. If it was me I would find a standard carb set up for now. Bike carbs can be a diffecult thing to set up at the best of time, the only real way to get decent results is to find a rolling rd with a decent operator who understands bike carbs. When set up right they are perfectly good. Would I use them again ? Probably not. Good luck

The one they are sending me is the black LCD type. There latest version

I've been in talks with them after the generic email and having a discussion with demon tweeks who seem to have contacted them. I received a large email from DC with an apology and a large list of questions on my set up & specs. I answered everything which they then passed on to there chief engineer, they have concluded I need the ewp 80 and there other controller. I maybe miss reading there email but I think they are sending out new kit from Oz.if this then turns out to be the case then that is top customer service ! Either way they do now seem to be interested in solving the issues...

ive just figured it out using imgbb

just testing image uploading

now installed an 88deg stat with a 3mm hole in it, closed off the bypass and the engine runs around 88deg moving which is great but could have been achieved without the DC system, it also renders the dc system useless as it will not allow me to drop temps below stat temp. the whole point was electronic control instead of mechanical. lets see what they come back with?

i will pm you my number so we can arrange something.

nice surprise seeing you last night

Well the power of the internet seems to be working, DC in Australia have been in touch and are very keen to know setups and specs to try and understand my issues and hopefully help

Check oil spray bar on the cam is spraying, your welcome round to my place if you want me take a look

Sold

Thats what i,m trying to do is raise temps, the water rail either over cools or under cools there was never a happy point using stats and took for ever to warm up. which is why i went down the route of the DC EWP..... i may still sell the lot and use the standard ford housing not decided yet...

i now have the 82stat back in and have run a bypass from pre stat to bottom hose using 15mm hose (bypassing the rad) the car heats up quicker and on a short drive i now have 82deg dropping slightly when i was slowed done by doddering old codgers who like to drive at 25mph everywhere. the same result was achieved without the stat also. when i 1st got the car this was how the builder had plumbed the heater matrix in and it caused the car to overheat big time on the motorway, so this proves the new rad / pump combo are so much more efficient than the original polo rad and mech pump. i,m waiting for an 88stat from burtons, which i will try and see if it raises it that be more to where i want it. long term a 42mm rad instead of a 55mm would prob be better and i should of got the ewp 80 pump instead of the 115 (http://www.mawsolutions.com gave me bad advice) but its to late the money is spent, i may well buy these bits and sell the other bits on. http://www.daviscraig.com.au are a bunch of two hats and dont want to know, they sent a generic email that is to be found all over the internet from others suffering my problems. there pumps are basically for hot climates such as Australia and big race v8s, not cold climates like the uk and 4pot engines, unless of coarse you have major over heating issues. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk who i bought the pump from are advising me that my engine is fine to run at 75deg just so long as it dosent overheat. still awaiting a response from them having explained how engine cooling is actually meant to work. Coolex on the other hand are absolutely brilliant, rang them and spoke to the owner and he was puzzled by the situation, he has only ever had people come to him with overheating issues which his rads have always sorted, never has he encountered his products overcooling, He actually offered to take my 55mm back and supply me the 42mm rad free, now that is customer service! i wont take him up on this as it would be unfair on them. The long and short of this situation is the raceline water rail is a pile of crap, if i had of known this years ago i would have removed it and used the ford housing or a retro ford version and never have ventured down this road. so far there is only 1 advantage to DC pump and controller system and that is the run on feature when you stop the engine, where it will flow and run the fan until it gets the temp down to <10deg of set point. Got to love kit cars !!

When stripped a 406 coupe I found a relay buried under the dash which was inaccessible untill the dash was out

I looked into a lot when building my new gearbox the V6 type 9 ratios make the car so much vbetter. I.m on the hunt now for a 3.54 crown wheel and pinion (English axle) to further improve performance

This is a good gear calc http://westfield-world.com/gtc.html

Sierra diffs will come in 3,14 3,38 3,65 and 3,89 i.m guessing you have 3,65 and the other a 3.89. my car pulls 3k at 70mph on 3.88 diff with a type 9 .82 5th Found this www.super7thheaven.co.uk/components/mt75-gearbox/ Shows different ratios in the mt 75

Ok. I.m off shift now for 3 days so will be back on it. Will update once progress is made

it's an odd situation to be in all other kit cars I've owned have been opposite to this

As title anyone got one spare they would sell ?