megadodo

Does the engine run if you leave power connected to the pump? If so the signal from the ECU to the relay or the relay is at fault.

The show was much the same as usual for me, nothing really new and I didn't spend much money! I chose to the "school girls" and had a cracking time! Thanks folks, hugely enjoyable, apart from the hangover! I haven't had one of those in years and now remember why I don't get drunk! Its taken me 2 days to get over it! And I hate camping, cold and miserable, and worse with a hangover, I bloody hope Newark is warmer! Once again thank you all for be so hospitable. Thanks also to RHOCAR for the food & drink in the tents as well.

+1 on the pre filter! Lack on one on mine killed 2 of my pumps!

So sorry for both you and your wife. Having lost my dad recently I fully understand what you are both going through. It takes time but it does get better.

These last few days I have been out and about in torrential rain where the visibility has been poor and at no stage have I not been able to see well enough well in advance any cars without fog lights on. Their side lights are visible, yes fog lights more so but they are not required. You should be driving to the conditions. If the conditions are that bad and drivers are RELYING on someone else having fog lights on then me having then on is not going to stop an accident. "226 You MUST use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced, generally when you cannot see for more than 100 metres (328 feet). You may also use front or rear fog lights but you MUST switch them off when visibility improves (see Rule 236)." I concede on the poor visibility legality but if I can see the cars a quarter mile away then they don't need fogs on! I wouldn't mind so much if they bothered to turn them off again when visibility improves but they don't.

Using rear fogs in the rain is WRONG, they are fog lights! Sorry, but this really bugs me. In the rain, just like in all conditions, you drive to the distance you can safely see in front. Rear fog lights are for when visibility is impaired in the fog NOT rain! It is also ILLEGAL.

Last week I had to travel from Sheffield to Wythenshawe and although the sat nav wanted to take me north I opted for the Snake Pass, a route I haven't been for years. Even though I was in the tin top it was just the way I remembered it, such fun! But when did the fun police change it to 50 mph??? I guess some idiots have hurt themselves and feel the rest of us need nannying!

Sorry, you were too slow! I have already promised them to someone else!

An LSD is definitely worth it. I too was looking for a rear disc axle and it just happened to be an LSD diff as an added bonus. It makes any rear end break away far less savage and therefore more controllable. I, of course, drive my car sensibly on the public roads and have never got my back out while hacking out of of corner under power to find the LSD gently controlling the amount of slide the car has, you can feel it working. Well, you could if I did that sort of thing.

I have no need for my 2B build DVDs any more if anyone want's them, providing they promise not to "sell them on" but just give them to someone else who needs them when they are finished with their build!

On mine, I could have left the stone guards off and it would have left no gap but I was very careful when building and aligning the side panels and arches and did them at the same time. I put the stone guards on as I like the look. You could of course wrap the arches, stone guards or both. You wont know how much of a gap the lack of stone guards leaves on your car without trying it I guess, then you would have to consider how to cover the holes used to fix the stone guards on in the first place. I considered wrapping just the guards in carbon (3M) wrap to match other parts on the car but went with the stainless.

I'm sure I remember someone on here is building a Roadrunner, or am I going mad? If there is someone could you let me know as I need your help please. A friend has built SR2 which has blown its diff and we can't get it out and I just need a confidence building response to how many bolts hold the diff to the chassis. Thanks folks

Thanks for all your king thoughts and word folks, they have made me feel less guilty and all the better for sharing the event.

Recently, I lost my Father to a hospital acquired infection after 2 serious ops in quick succession. He was 83 and had lived his life to full and was a joy to be with, entertained by, educated by etc. He will be sorely missed by the family and I never did get him into the 2B with his "gamy" knee! However, having returned home today from yesterdays funeral I can honestly say it was a wonderful event (overall of course). There was a great get together of my brothers and their families, my small family, dad's remaining brother and his wife, neighbours, ex colleagues of dad's, the friends I grew up with, my brother's friends, cousins etc. Then the service was moving (and very hard for all of us) and the Eulogy given by my Uncle was astonishingly entertaining and moving at the same time (how he delivered it without cracking up I'll never know), the burial in magnificent weather so he is now by his beloved wife and my mother. The wake in the pub was brilliant and then the fireworks (which he would have loved, loud bright and expensive) helped the evening go very well. The number of empty bottles this morning was also very indicative of an event enjoyed by all. It was weird leaving the house this morning and somehow I feel slightly guilty that I enjoyed the whole thing so much but I think he would have approved. RIP Prof. William Taylor Windle Potts 1928 -2012 Sorely missed (Now blubbing like a baby!)

It is a resistance to ground not a voltage. You supply 12 volts to the gauge and the "sender"s resistance to ground dictates the the reading on the gauge. So if you set a DVM to read resistance it will vary with the oil pressure when connected to ground and I'm guessing somewhere between 50 ohms and 2000 ohms but that will depend on the manufacturer as I guess there is no standard.

As long as it's solidly mounted it will work as a leading or trailing edge. However there are other issues that may dictate your choice! Handbrake cable route is one to consider for the zero I believe? I'm sure someone will give you the definitive answer. It may mean that your nipples have to hang down meaning the caliper comes off for bleeding.

Does these rolling road guys give torque values as well as BHP? Just as important IMHO.

I used m4 allen & pan headed stainless bolts with ss penny washers and nylocks. Looks good from both sides. Just get your distance from the edges even and inter bolt spacing even. DONT over tighten though.

I'm a tight bugger and wasn't going to spend another £45 and to be honest the forms are very straight forward. Any doubts were answered with a quick call to either GBS or reference to the supporting documentation off the DVLA website. If you can build the car then you fill out the forms. When registration came round the folks in the Peterborough DVLA office couldn't have been more helpful!

Sump off, check for distorted seal lip, fit new gasket with hammerite red. CAREFULLY hand tighten all the bolts to "nip" the sump up to the block. Then using a small tightening on each bolt work round the sump until you can see the gasket start to be "squeezed". Then run the engine until warm and then re-tighten. DON'T over tighten as that can squeeze the gasket too much. HTH

I can't see them stretching as the UJs will allow movement of the shaft in relation to the bolted up plates and the torque setting isn't that much (unless my memory has gone (again)) . I would use the proper bolts if I could with the correct torque setting but I would also use some thread-lock as well. Did you torque you hex heads to the correct limit with a good quality torque wrench?

A self tapper would be fine but I bought a rivnut tool and a load of rivnuts. Everything on my 2B is rivnuttted rather than screwed down. Better? Not sure, neater and easier for a good looking build? Yes! A neat build instils confidence in the IVA tester!

I think even you could change Zorro's bulbs Stewart! Or is it beneath you nowadays?

My 2B with a pinto was 750kg at IVA, Superspec must be similar

If you pass the belts through the seat holes you have to prove the seat has been tested to the appropriate standards. If not as per mine you have to show when you are sat in the seat, that the belts sit on your shoulders and aren't twisted on the mounting buckles. My upper mounts were fitted to the standard 2B chassis (2007 style, round tube bolts passing through the centre of the tube). They were firmly fixed at the angle required to pass the seat back with out twisting the belts, and it passed IVA. He said it didn't even need the covers I had put on but I wouldn't take that chance for a few a pennies worth of belt mount cover from a scrappy! From a practical viewpoint if (after test) you do pass the belts through the seat, in my case anyway, the belts would then pass through an down, up, down again route that I think in a crash would allow the belt to straighten out too much.