megadodo

Blue, green, orange or pink with spots, its irrelevant! Check the specifications are what you need for your engine. The colour does NOT guarantee a damn thing, I've seen too many "exceptions" just to go by the colour. Don't worry about the water content either, don't waste money using distilled (unless you can get it free from your de-humidifier) it makes bugger all difference.

Peter Bell's double chamfer plates cured my rear wheel bump steer, fully recommended. Also made the car far less "skittish" in a straight line.

When I got my kit in 2007 the + donated swinging arm front suspension and all the parts to build a kit. If you got "just" the 2B you had to buy extra packages to complete the car. I think later on the swinging arm became standard for even the none + kit. The chassis width was the same on both options, the 2B was built to be bigger from the very start. Within either of those choices there were more option such a stainless chassis or body panels, colour of the GRP parts etc.

Second one looks cracked between 1 and 2.

Great idea! So I go and check and my daily drive's MOT expired in August! Car now booked in. OOOPS!

I used 2 right angled lengths of 3 mm steel that run across the car from the lower side tubes of the chassis, these pick up the seat mounts and the inner lower belt pick ups. From the front piece I welded another short piece at 90 degrees running forward to pick up the handbrake. Simple but effective. The third piece could be bolted to the front support instead of welded on if that is not in your skill set.

Just do the whole subframe!

I have a similar one but that looks like the access in the middle is much better! How much for yours?

I'm guessing Germany has an equivalent to IVA?

We were visiting someone in Wales and went for a walk in them there hills and we where overlooking a valley when a pair of Vulcans shot up the valley below us, awesome sight and sound! The ground shook and the sheep were very unhappy!

So. in answer to your actual question, I think you need a single filament 21 watt bulb.

If its anything like my wife's Seat then a one filament bulb does both stop and tail. It confused me when I first cam across it. The clue was that both the stop and tail failed at the same time. The bulb is "dimmed" when the side lights are on but on "full power" for braking HTH

GPS speed readings are very accurate as they are a differential change in position over time so the very small positional inaccuracy is negated. I agree that previous vehicles I have owned along side a stand alone alone GPS device show their speedos do read around 10 % higher. However, my BMW E36 & 2 E46 BMWS have speedos that read the same as a GPS speed! I set my 2B speedo to read the same as GPS. Not that I speed any more but I still have to remember not allow 10% speedo error in speed restricted areas!

While I'm very sorry that anybody dies or is injured in a road accident, where do we stop when it comes to making roads safer? I'm sorry but if you're paying attention then you should be driving to within the limits of the road, your car and the posted speed limit. Just because a limit is posted doesn't mean its safe to travel at that speed. Some people don't consider stopping distance in an emergency at all when they drive and they certainly don't consider other people. No amount of speed limit signs and Armco are going to save them or others when they get it wrong and they are impossible to police with current police budgets. A lot these accident reduction measures don't save lives and cost us taxpaying folks money.

Mine blocked after I filled up using what looked like a new metal jerry can. It was full of crap (rust particles) and blocked the filter causing 2 separate "stoppages" on the road before I found the root casue. I've not had the issue since draining the tank completely and using good known clean fuel.

Some are, some aren't, depends on the panel. Bonnet & side panels were pre bent but all others are formed from flat sheet.

Age hardened valve oil seals, won't affect compression at all but will let oil into the combustion chamber especially on the over-run.

I have one of their TIGs and it works as well as my limited skills will allow. I will however make the comment that when I discussed my requirements with them before purchase I did mention I wanted aluminium welding capability and they sold me a DC only unit!

I've used both hammerite and "proper" caliper paint and got very similar results. The spray "proper" paint takes several coats to look good and avoiding runs, whereas hammerite (smooth) can be done in 1. Both chip off the caliper easily despite good preparation.

IVA emissions test is based on the engine manufacture date so will be the same as a MOT.

My angle iron supports both the inner seat belt mounts and the seat runners.

Mine "hunted" when I first ran her post installation. Firstly someone had dicked about with throttle stop screw and the butterfly wasn't shutting and secondly where the butterfly closes against the manifold there was a build up of crap, cleaned that off and a perfect idle was restored.

Once again folks, thanks for the advice. Okay so a red (matches the cylinder head colour) 6 bolt vernier cam pulley ordered from turbosports, 1 piper fast road cam and matching followers I have already, cam belt was new 3290 miles ago as was the tensioner (do you think they really need changing?). Oil feed pipe was cleaned when the head was rebuilt at the same time. Timing looks a simple operation but I wont pin it until its been rolling roaded (is that really a verb?) I looked at pre pegged pulleys but by their nature they must be a compromise unless you are lucky as there are only a finite number of positions you can have? One may be spot on but it's more likely to be a few degrees form optimal (especially with my luck!). I'll do my oil change at the same time (post 20 minutes camshaft bedding in period!). I'm going to do it in situ, I just need to make a neat round opening in my firewall.

More power! I have a 2.0 EFI in mine and very quickly wanted more power, even more so after I bought my M3! I agree with getting the biggest engine you can rather than tweaking a smaller engine. My first car was a 1.6 BMW, I put twin webers and a meaty cam on it and while it was good it was not as good as the 2.0 fuel injected engine I replaced it with!

Cheers folks, so the consensus is whichever one I buy, peg it post timing! Now do I go for bling or retain the discrete OE look...........? Or do I buy cheap like any good Hoodie?