fry61

If you weren't so far away I'd come over there and give you a ---------------------------------- hand; with the gaffer tape. It's the same at this end with our car -- hours, sometimes days pondering then 2 minutes work, then on to the next ponder. 300 hours to build? Add another zero.

Get on with it --- there's always silver gaffer tape to make ammends!!

The latest version of metal cutting discs are only 1mm thick,put very little heat into the work & the burr is very easy to remove. Done all the cutting on my s/steel with these, also needs the minimum of support. Just make sure you start your grinder away from the work as torque reaction will make the blade wander on start-up.

If the winning bidder hit the "Bid now" button in the last few seconds of auction with a £13.00 bid he wins -- only way round this is to go to the wire later then him -- but the bid clock always seems to be a bit out when I'm bidding.

I've got 0.7mm 304 stainless sheet for sale @£2.50 a sq.foot -- you could us your m/s back as pattern -- bonnet is more difficult to manufacture but not impossible if you go the separate scuttle route.

When I bought my kit a couple of years ago I also bought the donor & a pair of Cobra seats,thinking that's the main expence done with. Well it's taken 2 years before seats were installed in the car & shown off to guests at our Easter BBQ. "Your seats don't match" was the main comment; & on closer inspection we could see they didn't,not a great difference but once pointed out, the error glared at you every time you entered the workshop. We wrote to Cobra explaining the mis-match & they replied"Difference due to change in prodution methods & we got seats from before & after. Please return the seats & we will send back a matching pair" Seats returned last Monday & replacement MATCHING seats recieved on Friday. What brilliant service 2 years after purchase, full marks & a highly recommended company.

Thanks for replies; would still like some thing more certain about front plate; seems strange IVA give 2 options for rear & no mention of front.

I've read the latest web edition of the IVA manual & can find no reference to front no. plate ---all details are there for rear but not front---any-one know---do we still have the benefit of an IVA tester posting on here???

Sorry I didn't repond sooner, but not having a car (except tin-top )was going to come along to support/help with the day--- never mind---with that sort of feed-back we count ourselves lucky to have had 3 sevens & 6 classics turn up for our Easter BBQ---don't give up trying.

Is any-one going? Haven't seen a mention of it on here,can we help?

It's quite easy to alter the older 2B S/S chassis so the handbrake is IN the tunnel top & it's also possible to get a much wider foot-well;then a little cut & shut on the Sierra pedals will have you driving in boots if required. PM if you would like more details.

If you find & fit 2050mm ramps you'll be able to WALK under your car!!!

SVA has changed to IVA it's a few hundred pounds dearer --£450.00 +£90.00 for a retest & there are quite a few changes. Go to "Search" & type in IVA Manual.

Shop details:- SNIP,Unit 10,Priory Square,Salisbury. 01722 413600. Snip is the name of the shop,let us know how you get on & if collection & forwarding required,regards Bob.

Ours sat on the BBQ for 5 hours keeping the stew just on the boil--how many do you need--will try to find shop phone number if you wish.

What type of top/lid do you need? Bought a 10gall. stewpot for our Easter BBQ with lid for £10 at local bucket shop--would they do?

The grease nipples should be 1/4" UNF --- measure across the thread--is it 6.35mm--that'll be the size then. P.M if you are unable to get some -- I'm sure I have spares in the work-shop.

You forgot the 1963--yes 1963 Lotus 7--what all our's are based on. Thanks are due to Russell for the large tent,the puting up,taking down & turning up in his MK;showed just how small the first 7's were.

If the rest of your build matches my welding you know it won't fail, so good luck, although welcome, should be un-necessary----drive carefully----there & back.

Has any-one got a rotary joggler I can buy or borrow,please? Need to put a step in a S/Steel 0.7mm panel to "hide" the edge of the bonnet, don't want to use an edge trim if I can avoid it, thanks. (Standard joggler will not do as I wish to joggle round an easy curve)

Cheaper solution---M12-SVA-plastic nut covers from Car Builder Solutions.

On our 2B+ build I have got the brake lines entering the body panel just above & behind the rear of the bottom wish-bone; this allows lock to lock movement without the flexi making contact with anything. If you go this route be sure to make & fit a plate to anchor the flexi end to a chassis member; fixed to the body panel only is a fail 'cos the panel flexes.

Changed the entire trim of a mini, years back, from pale blue to black;was years before blue "cracks" appeared on the seats--even dyed the seat belts with a cloth dye.

BLack sailcloth--will that act as a very good heat collector from the sun & a very good radiator into the cockpit?

Sorry,confused in-line with parallel---I'll go & stand in the corner.