ozz

If i Remember correctly you have an alligator bonnet. Don't go cutting holes that you might later regret (when you get bike carbs) or you might end up with an even bigger job replacing your holey bonnet. Give us a bell if you need any help/tools. Andrew

Hi I have same engine and gearbox here is a pic of the gear box end of prop shaft with some measurements (please ignore the poor painting) This one shows how far forward my engine is Here you can see the engine rubber mounts on an early build of the engine (have bike carbs now not injection) hope this helps Andrew Edited to show pictures (thanks RichardL for the tip)

Great run today. Thanks guys. Will definitely join you more often. Ozz

Thanks for the replies guys It was a bit tongue in cheek Jack will be joined by his mates ramps and crane (hook and crook) and it will be raised with no backs being put out.

I want to vinyl wrap my zero but being a bit on the large side I want to try to get it up to a good working height. How many recruits do you think I need? Ozz

Mine passed with those wing mirrors with nut covers.

I think top speed is to assess that the tyre speed ratings are appropriate. (but I could be wrong) Ozz

You should inform your insurance company as soon as possible otherwise your insurance is likely to become invalid. Most policies contain this clause about disclosure. If he does not pay up you could be left without cover and out of pocket. The police do not need to be informed but the insurance may advise/require you to do so and if so you should. Have a read of your policy doc and all should become clear. Ozz

Mine also has both, The servo take off is a pipe welded on to pipe 4 but not drilled through as I don't use that (no servo) but could be used later for a vacuum gauge or map sensor. The coolant take off - I have a bypass pipe going round the back of the engine and back to the water pump (no heater matrix) I have read somewhere, probably on here, that it helps cooling the head. Ozz

http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/automotivebulbs

Sorry I made an error in my post above my handbrake cable enters at the top and acts on the bottom shoe. (been out and checked) . According to the Haynes manual the leading shoe is to the front (of the vehicle) and has the self adjuster mechanism located into it, the trailing shoe (to the rear) has the handbrake lever attached. remember on the sierra the wheel cylinder is at the top. rotating the backplate as we do so the cylinder is at that rear puts the leading shoe (was at front) to the top and the trailing shoe with the handbrake lever to the bottom. My setup matches the photo on the gbs photo disk that I posted above. MarkBzero's are the other way up and both work. Ozz

found this on the gbs disc that came with my kit. http://i1133.photobu...zpsfc956418.jpg i think you need to swap the brake shoes and adjusters side to side.

My handbrake cable enters the back plate at the top and attaches to the lever on the top shoe. Sorry I don't have a pic of the drum off. Haynes manual will help.

this is the one I used its nice and long to avoid the manifold on the pinto. http://www.burtonpower.com/clutch-cable-cortina-mk3-mk4-1-6-2-0-sohc-pinto-to-8-79-qcc1010.html Ozz

Cheers Dan, Thanks for the offer, I will build it then bring it to you for testing/fixing. Andrew

Thanks for the reply I will go with that. Ozz

I'm fitting wipers to my Zero, Its an old model 08 chassis and did not have the scuttle pre drilled. I have decided to fit the wipers with a right hand park (sweeping from right to left) like the ones I've seen in pictures on the GBS website. Would a kind zero owner/builder measure the distance between the centres of the holes on their scuttle for me? Many thanks Ozz

I am getting the bits together to fit a wiper motor to my zero can anyone tell me the fuse rating for the motor feed? Thanks Ozz

You need to rotate the back plate 90 degrees for the holes to line up with the hub carriers. my cylinder is to the rear and handbrake cable entry at the top. http://i1133.photobu...zps0e726da0.jpg

I asked my wife to bring her scissors and hairdryer down. She thought she was cutting my hair. but we ended up vinyl wrapping my scuttle.

Just spotted a June Update to IVA manual same link as above. Now version 9.

This is the note that is to Annex 2: Interior/Exterior Assessment in the IVA Manual. "Where the area behind the rear bulkhead of the passenger area and the rear of the vehicle is covered by a ‘soft’ cover held in place by pop studs, (e.g. a Lotus seven type vehicle), the cover is considered an access lid. In these cases the exterior projections should be assessed with the cover in place. The area beneath the ‘access lid’ is deemed to be the interior of the vehicle and if it appears to be behind a permanent bulkhead it is exempt of any interior fitting requirements."

For IVA you only need either a mechanical or electronic immobiliser in addition to the ignition switch See section 13A Anti – Theft / Immobiliser http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/M1%20IVA%20Inspection%20Manual.pdf "Where the vehicle has no mechanical anti - theft device fitted: 4. An electronic immobiliser must be fitted"

I always use a length of garden hose with a blob of vaseline.... sorry wing mirrors can't help mine came from gbs

Most after market gear lever surrounds will not have the required radius for Iva hence the reply above to be careful which one you buy. Send it without one and fit what you like after. I made one out of thin upvc cladding and even then only just passed. If you are almost ready for Iva then you should already know the Iva manual requirements for radiused edges inside and out Ozz