Foz

Thanks Al, I'll get my ticket booked - do you know if we are booked as RHOCaR or UK kit car club ?

Hi Tim, You can build the car with pretty much anything you want (within reason) as long as it complies with all the requirements of the IVA test. The main advantage of using the main parts from one donor car is that you can get an age related registration number, otherwise you will end up with a "Q" registration which some people don't want - but it isn't really an issue for most folks. I would recommend that you try to stick to one or two manufacturer/models of car to avoid problems with getting things to match up and fit together. Otherwise crack on and good luck. Steve

This is a brilliant show with loads of cars, music, side stalls, acts in the arena etc. For a number of reasons we haven't had many members attend last year & 2023 but hopefully we'll get a good turn out this year. Anyone who is interested in going can you please stick a note on this post, we can then see if there is enough interest to justify asking them for a club plot. Thanks, Steve

I would say "impressive". I might also say that it looks like they're queuing up for their turn in the garage

Ah the joys of kit cars Glad to hear you've got it sorted - just in time for some good weather.

Welcome to you all, the weather seems to be picking up so we can start getting out and about again & hopefully meet up with some of you.

Glad you're sorted - don't worry, at my age I may well have senior moments but it's OK because I don't remember them

You're just trying to confuse an old man aren't you I've had to look at the manual ! The TDC pointer on the backplate behind the cam sprocket should line up with the dot on the head when it is nearest to the crankshaft. At this position the pointer is pointing up, away from the crank. I don't see how it can line up with anything when it 180 degrees out from that, as it would then be above the camshaft, in fresh air. There is a picture in my Haynes manual (19.3 on page 2A.12) which shows it, and that is how I remember it (although my memory is not as young as it was). I don't have a pinto handy to check but I'm sure it's correct. Hope this helps, Steve

Hi Paul, welcome to the club. I suspect that you may have to put it through an IVA test, particularly as DVLA are now aware that the V5 doesn't match. The only thing I can think of is if you have any paperwork on the original build showing any tests it may have had at that time - this might then give you something to present to DVLA ? Good luck, Steve

Have a look at some of the marine / boat builder websites, they do a range of stainless hinges in all shapes and sizes, designed to survive sea water.

I must learn to type quicker - either that or slow Al down

Not sure what you mean by J registration. J at the start could mean it used a 1970/71 donor car (unlikely), J at the end could mean a 1991/92 donor and is most likely if a Sierra was used. What is more important, as Phaeton says, is what is recorded on the V5. If it's a genuine seller they'll be happy to tell you.

There's something odd going on - I got this message a couple of days ago, closed the page and then went back to it a couple of minutes later and could just read it. I wonder if it just pops up now and again ???

Don't know if it's something you've said but I've tried the link on a couple of devices and it just lets me view it. If you (or anybody else) still has problems let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Thanks Derek, I was just going to post the link but you've beaten me to it . I'm not sure why there is only pictures of me - presumably nobody else is as handsome ............. OK, maybe they all said no ! As you say, it makes some good points about kit cars and we've got a mention in a national newspaper which can only be good.

Newsflash, I've just had an email - it should be online tomorrow but might not make the paper until next week !

Just to let everyone know that there is a kit car article in the money section of tomorrow's Telegraph newspaper, both online & hard copy. I believe it's mainly about the financial aspects of kit car building and ownership, but don't quote me on that . I had a chat with Joe Wright who's doing the article so hopefully the club will get a mention and maybe a photo, although, if I'm in the photo it might frighten people off !! I don't know exactly what's is in the article but they say any publicity is good publicity don't they ? Steve

Most pedal boxes I've seen recently seem to use 2 brake cylinders and a balance bar, I don't know of any single brake ones. I ended up modifying the original Sierra pedal assembly in mine. Have you had a look at Compbrake (https://www.compbrake.com) - they make pedal boxes and may be able to customise one to suit you. Their prices are reasonable - I had a fuel tank made by them, to my design, and I was impressed with it & their service.

Hi Russell, welcome to the club. Which model Robin Hood do you have - the hood is not quite the same for all models and the radiator fitting options are different. Options on the hood - you can make your own or you may drop on a second hand one for your model, (I'm not sure if GBS still do a hood for the 2B) alternatively you can get one made, somewhere like "Soft Bits for Sevens" is sort of in your corner of the country and will give you an idea of prices. Have a look at Derek's article in the Autumn 2023 magazine for ideas on making your own (you'll find the mags in the Member Lounge section). As to the overheating - can you give some more info. - what engine do you have? does it overheat if idling or only when given some stick? does it blow coolant out? Any other information might give us a clue what to suggest. If you have a search on the forums (search box, top right of page) for "overheating" you'll find lots of previous problems members have had which might help you. Try this post for starters - Steve

There are a number of options depending on a few things such as what size pinto you're running, what state of tune and how much you want to spend. If you're running a fairly standard 2.0 a then the DGAV 32/36 is a popular option and (I think) it fits the stock manifold.

You can drill as many as you like if it's your thermostat In my 2B's pinto I used to drill one hole of about 3 - 4mm, positioned so that it would be near the top of the thermostat when it was fitted. I found that this was enough to prevent air locks without defeating the operation of the stat. Steve

I've received this message from Wilksy - is there anybody out there who can help him with rebuilding one of these carbs ? Thanks, Steve Wilksy Foz DFTH Carb - Help required. Idiots mistake - I have stripped down a 30/34 DFTH ex 1987 Sierra 2.0 carb to give it a good and thoroughly needed clean as well as modify it to run on basic engine electrics and manual choke - yes I know not the best solution but necessary funds wise to get this twice frustrated project mobile for an IVA. Idiot that I am I didn't make note or take pictures when I stripped this gunk laden piece of history. Now looking more presentable and re-gasketed I'm scratching my head on the operating spindle build sequence. The Haynes Sierra manual is about as useful and informative as a chocolate fire guard whilst DFTH exploded views on the net appear to vary, now having got Webers exploded view its better but like the others doesn't cover the small part details of the operating shaft. I have worked out the cams and levers and have a good understanding of the spacer collars and springs. Where I'm totally stuck is the positioning in the assembly sequence of the small profile bore washers and discs which appear to hold the collars / cams / levers in their required positions. Does anyone have a picture/s or sketches which could assist me ? Thanks in hope Wilksy

Anyone is normally welcome at the meets, just turn up or contact Alan (Alantoon) for more info.

Hi Daniel, only just realised you're a new member - welcome to the club