niduncan

The bushes are 1 1/4" diameter and the spindle hole is 1/2". I renewed mine last year, got some Nylon 66 Molybdenum Disulphide bar (40mm x 500mm) from here clicky I also put grease nipples on as well. Old bush: New bush:

I did this on my car: Just cut the top off the dizzy, make a plate and bolt to the top of the dizzy then bolt the coil pack to the plate.

This is a Series 3: I have a scanned in copy of the Traditional / Series 3 Sales Brochure which gives some info about the Traditional using wishbones and the sierra front subframe. If you would like a copy pm your e-mail address.

Here are some cable measurements that might help. I ended up using the Cosworth cable.

When I had the original hood fitted this is how mine looked. The bracket mounting has a captive nut for easy removal of the bars. I now have a home made hood and I only use one bar which when raised is attached to the roll bar to make it rigid.

I use TSW Razor 15" x 6" ET35 with 195/65 tyres on my Series 3. Using these tyres gives me a 5" sump clearance and fill out the rear wheel arches nicely.

No, you cut off the top of an old distributor and then add a plate to mount the coil pack on. You must re-use the bottom of the distributor as the shaft drives the oil pump.

I mounted the trigger wheel on the back of the crank pulley and the coil pack in place of the distributor on my pinto. Starts, idles and runs much better than the standard electronic ignition and easy to play with ignition mapping using a laptop:

I did my Series 3 using 6 way connectors like this:

I have for sale a brand new hood which is listed on ebay, ideal for an attempt at sunroof fitting? Click here to see item

I used the t-piece that came off the Sierra: I mounted the flexible brake hose like this, no brackets required: Hope this helps.

I have a scanned in copy of an early manual, not sure if it is your model, this is the front cover: The pdf is 16.5MB in size, I can e-mail it as long as your mailbox will accept a file that big. PM me your e-mail address if you would like a copy.

I live in Thurlby and have used TB Motors in Bourne (15 miles north of Peterborough) for the last 4 years for my hood as well as my tintops. It is a small garage, very friendly, gives excellent service, and I have never had any problems with MOT's. I always sit in the car during the MOT and operate the controls. T.B. Motors Unit 9 Cherryholt Square Cherryholt Road Bourne PE10 9LA Tel: 01778 393837 The guy who runs owns the garage is also called Robin, so you can't go wrong. There is also Tiger Racing out at Thorney, never used them myself but they are kit car manufacturers. Nigel.

I am with Premium Choice and have a £6000 agreed value on my 12 year old Series 3. Always start high as you know they will offer less!

Kit type: Series 3 Date of Manufacture: 1997 Purchase Date: Mar 1997 First MOT Date: Jul 1997 Total mileage: 23,000 to date Type of prop failure: NOT FAILED Maintainance: UJs Greased every 2 or 3 years Engine Size: 2000cc Mods: Megajolt Ignition, Foam Air Filter. 4 into 1 Exhaust Manifold Std: Std apart from the above BHP: approx 100 at the wheels Diff ratio: 3.62 (has also been 3.38 and 3.92) Matched Engine & Diff: No Propshaft Manufacturer: Dunning & Fairbank

On mine the main beam relay is where the green arrow is pointing and dip is the red arrow which is how it was on the Sierra donor I believe.

On the back of my Series 3 I use these: 10.5 closed 16 open with 175 lb springs. These were bought direct from AVO in 2005 and cost £205 all in. Still using the original shocks on the front.

I use the diff flange bolts on my VDO speedo and to test it I used a pillar drill: I have since changed to a differnt type of sensor:

This is the map I use. I have a bog standard 2.0l Pinto with a Weber 32/36 and my megajolt has the MAP sensor hence the load bins run from 25 to 100. The map you are using is set for a throttle position sensor. I have being running this map for a couple of years but as yet have not has it setup on a rolling road.

Hi Paul, the guy's name is Roy, I shall PM you his address. According to the 3A sales brochure that I have it came with a new instrument cluster, column switches and fusebox. Roy suspects that the cluster and switches are from a Fiesta, definitely not Sierra, which probably means that the wiring is completely different to the Sierra column switches! I think the 3A came in a couple of different configurations, inboard front shocks, outboard front shocks, loads of extras that did not come with the 3: servo, discs, callipers, air horns, instrument cluster, column switches and fusebox. He will be very thankful for any info you can send him. Cheers, Nigel.

Met a guy at Newark who was very interested in my Series 3, turns out he has bought a part built 3A (inboard shocks). He is going to join the club but does not have any internet access so I am trying to find out some info for him. His car is a runner but he has no build information or photos of the build. He is having trouble with the electrics (no wiring diagrams) and would like any information on what wiring instructions came with the kit. In addition, what vehicle did the original supplied instrument cluster and steering column switches come from? He would also like to make contact with anybody who has managed to get a Series 3A through SVA/IVA. He lives in March, Cambridgeshire. Any info would be gratefully received. I am supplying him with copies of the Series 3 build videos and a copy of the original 3a sales brochure.

Most of my driving is on fen roads which are notoriously bad. To give adequate sump clearance I did the usual sump shortening mod and also fitted 195/65 tyres on 15" rims, this gives me 5" clearance. I don't have to worry anymore about bad roads or speed humps!

The sensor I used is not affected by the UJ. The sensor has a built in LED which shows when the sensor is triggered, it only picks up the 4 bolt heads.

Had the same problem with my Series 3. I put a non-return valve near the fuel tank and now the engine cranks over less before firing after a standing for weeks. It is worth trying as they are cheep to buy and easy to fit. Going the electric route is costly what with pump, oil pressure relay or impact relay and maybe even a fuel regulator as well!

Check out this topic: Seats for a 3A