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Brake fluid sensor has 3 connections. 1 is GND the other 2 are connected together in the switch. Correct wireing is switched fused power to light. Light to one of the fluid level common connections and the other common conection to the handbrake switch which connects to GND. So you test the brake fluid low warning light every time you use the handbrake.

I am guessing that this is one on the many Blacktop Zetec engines that Ford over produced before the emissions regs changed. They are still being sold new around £700 as only kit cars can use them and thus they are about half the price they would have been otherwise. Thus the spec will be the same as the very last production zetecs. ECU will be whatever the installer favored. Carbs may have been fitted in place of the injection system. There are a few threads on fitting zetecs on this site.

See my post above. The bearing supplyed is still good after 75000 miles. The butress split, no repair kit has ever been offered as the repair is so simple. You need a spreader plate under the butress I used a plate 10mm thick (material I had available 5mm would be good) the internal width of the butress and about 100mm in the length of the butress with a central hole able to take the strut rod.

Lets face it most engines work better the hotter they get. If the coolant stays in thats all that matters.

There is the tail about the guy who welded his own tank. He had seen some one useing a vac to clear the fumes. So he stuck the hose of his vac into the tank to suck out the fumes switched on...BANG! It was pointed out in A&E that some old vacs could be used to blow as well as suck.

Contact Burton power? www.burtonpower.com

Been running a 1983 leaded head in a 2.0 pinto since leaded disapeared and not had any problems. Done about 45,000 miles in that time. There appears to be no consistancy in these heads

my reaction is either a fuse for main beam or the dip switch needs spraying with switch cleaner (obtain from maplins)

I always have had problems with the durability of hammerite. My expeiance is that it goes brittle with age and then the slightest knock and it chipped

If the loom is modified from a ford doner loom dont forget that there is a hidden main fuse. The + wire from the battery has a fuse link buit in but just looks like a wire, this is the wire that does everytrhing EXCEPT power the starter.

You would not recalibrate the dipstick. The MAX mark on a dipstick is where the oil level is safe from being hit by the crank shatf and con rods.

I second that, 5 by 5 inches covered by a plate with 4 self tappers at each corner. Better a bit bigger than cutting your fingers trying to get at things.

only points systems use balast resistors

Tacho off alternator was for diesel where there is no spark.

7 Bar (approx 100psi) sounds high. All smiths electrical guages need to run of a 10V stabilised supply, if you have not done this then the guage will read high. Smiths voltage regulators are widely available new for about £10, The body needs to be earthed, the power is to the "B" terminal and the instrument is to the "I" terminal. One voltage regulator is good to power up to 3 guages. Some of these need mounting with an indicator arrow pointing up.

Fan cools the rad not the engine. There is limited to no thermosyphon in our cars ( need a high top to rad for this to work look at austin severn pre ww2 to see how high). Many current production cars also have electric water pumps where running on can work, unless you also fit electric water pumps only expect this to do what BigJim says to happen to your battery.

Always a good idea to protect any wireing directly exposed to road kill etc. The rear light wireing that is inside the rear wings I ran through hose pipe sealed with sikaflex at the ends, and it has lasted 70,000 miles still going strong. Anything under the fuel tank I would also have protected.

F1 are all inboard and they have very large budgets

When I built my car I had the head of these bolts on top. No problems in 70,000 miles. The big central bolt in my instalation is redundant, it goes through the Ford rubber bush which is locked out by another bolt straight trhough the subframe to the reinforceing plate. Looking back I could have left out the bush but now it is in I have just left it.

Does not matter which you switch for direction, just dont switch both. Reducing field too low with commutator at full bore is a recipe for disaster as now no back EMF to limit commutator current. So if you only want to vary one it has to be the commutator.

Should work. You might find that full volts are a bit higher than 110V as the capacitor will try to charge to peak volts at around 150V so be carefull not to over drive the motor. Mark a MAX on the knob

Qualified yes. You would still need some sort of load and without a resevoir capacitor the DC would be a bit lumpy. So ordianry light bulb as a load and a 0.1 to 10uF 350V capacitor should work.

Looking at the size this is phase control. The black bit on the heat sink will be a thyristor. These are either on or off. It works by switching on part way through the mains 50Hz cycle and switching off when the current drops to zero just before it reverses for the second part of the cycle. The control is that it switches on nearly at the start of the cycle for full power and nearly at the end of the cycle for minimum power. So unless your meter is syncronised to the mains (very unusual) or a true RMS meter it will take spot readings all over the cycle and read jumping all over the place. A tungsten light bulb of 60W or above will act as a good testing load. Have fun

Dipped headlight new to me

First thought is ring up GBSC and ask them