knights_templar

should bend with right lever, tube around support is better lever in tube may bend end of support.

If your mishap was enough to damage a drive shaft what else needed to be changed? Zero Ford donor is all Sierra, and there should be NO free play in a rear bearing, they are preloaded when torqued correctly, any play and they are dead OR the shaft nut has loosened, possible. If a shaft is changed, it is often changed as a unit with the bearing carrier, or the bearing is opened, logic would replace bearing at the same time. What was the actual work listed?

Yes, and I would not again. May have been the one used, but cars are heavier than bikes and it came down a bit to quick for my liking, however hard you tried to ease it down. Would agree with Florin, they remain parallel to the ground, so you have to be careful where you are lifting.

Depends on wing stays, you may have to tweak, and the molds the wings were made in. Later mold is best. Trim wing where you need to to get it to easily sit where you want it, run needs of glue, and strap to wheel with masking tape. Leave overnight and in tape. Add more bonding where necessary.

Marlin there is a pull up resistor in the loom, just make shore the alternator has the feeds it needs and it should work. You may actually need to remove the resistor, but that for another reason, or you can use your original alternator and it an after market controler

as far as I am aware its free.

There is a better one then that if you need the wiring diagram. All these are available through the official forum.

Sorry, but IMHO You now have approximately the system the Zero was designed for, except the swirl pot is in the boot, not the front of the car which would negate the need of pumping high pressure fuel to the front and back to the rear. a baffled tank would not help, because baffles are designed to reduce fuel surge, not make a isolated reservoir for the high pressure pump feed. The only way to produce an in tank swirl pot is to have a lowered section of tank as a reservoir, like the Zero race tank, which also has, issues. or to have an isolated area with a one way feed, fuel can flow from tank to area but not out again, or there is always a risk the reservoir could drain back into the tank. the problem here is the fuel in the reservoir will only ever be as high as the fuel level in the tank. hence the lowered section of the tank to make the reservoir. There is a standard tank with a lowered section, but it is small and hangs below the chassis, the race tank sits high, above the axle line and has a swirl pot that sticks out below over the diff.

some of the lights are earth circuit such as the handbrake light, the switch is to earth so the light needs a live one side and to the switch the other, others are earthed the live coming from the feed circuit.

OK, just wondered, not standard then, hand't seen that before. Not convinced you will cure your hesitation with the foam, await results with interest.

why isn't the filler and tank sender accessible through the boot area?

Thought you would pick up on the "designed" Zach. did you ever work out my cryptic clue

You could see if the tank is baffled by looking through the sender hole. Just thinking out loud If it was baffeled, they only slow fuel movement, they do not eliminate it altogether. The foam cube is an idea, but wouldn't the fuel just flow through the gaps between cubes. I would have thought you would have to at least fully fill the tank or at least cover the tank floor to be of use, and would it not take out total tank volume. If you restricted the fuel movement could that effect the volume of fuel you could get out of the tank to circulate in Hp system. To be honest, no idea. As much as you may dislike the idea, the tank was "designed" to use a swirl pot.

same material as Zero Nelmo, high shore rated polyurethane.

they used to be purchased from powerflex https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Universal+Kit+Car+Bush+For+Robin+Hood/2101.html

As long as the increased offset does not overload the wheel bearings.

No

its just a pulse which is fine for the smiths speedo, not actually used the Mazda but the unit on the Ford boxes work fine.

Zero was taken to MIRA, deffuser looks better and does keep the back of the car cleaner, but had very little effect on airodynamics. As others have said, makes little difference to shape of a brick, to many flat surfaces facing the air flow, to many holes and surfaces to break the flow up.

All the above point raised are good pointers I would suggest a few more you mention all the floats are at the correct height now, have they changed from previously? why did you change the needle jets? a leaking valve would have the effect of raising the float level previously. You mention idle is "lumpy", did you balance the carbs after re fitting, bike carbs go off balance through normal use, let alone a strip down, even if you haven't touched them, agree with possible air leaks mentioned above. You have set mixture screws to a base setting have you moved them from base. Balance first, then set tick-over mixture by turning all screws in and out 1/8 turn TOGETHER until you achieve best tick-over, you will probably have to adjust tick-over at times doing this, adjust the mixtures again when you do, usually, depending on use, you then lean them by a 1/4 turn from that point, but if the primary jet has not been increased it may flat spot when you blip the throttle. The mixture screw on bike carbs also has an effect over a larger throttle range than a normal carb, so increasing fuelling may get around a poor primary jet. Note, some mixture screws are air bypass, and work in reverse, out to lean. As above this is only tweaks to get it to a rolling road, All fixed jets and needle jets need setting on RR, including primary and fuel compensation, to be right.

maybe my answer was a bit crude. But in essence you have it. Basic history of the cooling system thermo cycle, lots of water, tall radiator, many didn't use pumps early pressure system, reduced quantity of water required, can run at a higher temp, some over the boiling point of water, lower radiator height = lower front to vehicle, filler is highest point usually radiator, with safety valve to stop over pressure, filler had level marker, expansion space under pressure cap Pressure system then went non pressure expansion tank, filler does not need expansion space, system is enclosed, expansion spills into bottle, and is sucked back when cool, needs to be completely cold before opening the system or you allow air in and the spit/suck will not work, system will need bleeding. Pressure system with pressurised expansion tank, tank generally needs to be the highest point, but some such as the VW sphere have a pumped feed inlet at the top to bleed the system which allows the filler to be lower, expansion is held with in the system although separate from the main cooling circuit, the cap regulates system pressure and there is often an anti vacuum. generally self bleeding, level can easily be checked visually, but also less emissions from the cooling system. Possibly more advantages and/or disadvantages to each system, but no time to put them down here

If you are running without an expansion tank of any type now, you will have an air gap at the top of the system. In "normal" cars this would be in the top of the Rad the highest point in the system, that may not be the highest point on a kit. Expansion systems prevents an air gap within a cooling system. The non pressurised allows expansion into a container that is drawn back into the system when it cools, the container can be fitted virtually anywhere. The pressurised system just keeps the air gap in the expansion tank, the reason it must be at the highest point of the cooling system. Neither have any great effect on cooling of a "normal" car, although with a kit the air gap is removed from the main part of the cooling system which will improve its efficiency. Although you could argue there is generally a greater volume of water in a pressurised system, it is the efficiency of the circulation and radiator that maintains temperature. The weakness of the non pressurised system is that it uses atmospheric pressure to force the coolant back into the cooling system, so the system pressure valve to container must be able to take vacuum. The pressure type require it to be at the highest point of the system. Must cut answer short, back to work :-)

Q1 why do you want an expansion tank Q2 why do you need a pressurised expansion tank q3 do you have a problem you believe an expansion tank will cure

That is down to how you present the car, if you fill in the form saying that it is a new car, can show the proof that everything is new, the one major component allowed to be reckoned excepted, they will take it as a new car test it under current emissions, and you should get a new plate. But equally if you present the car proving the age of the engine as being pre 1995, you should get an age related and the test for the year of the engine applies. It's all to do with what you say you have done, what you can prove you have done, and how the people at the DVLA view the application. VOSA do not see your application, or the pictures of the build you have sent in, they are just told to test the vehicle, you could present a totally different car, as long as the chassis and engine number match their paper work, they test to the standard you want. Like the GT40 kit I took, with brand new pre 95 5.5 V8 fitted with four twin down draft Holly's, presented as a new car, could equally applied for age related because of the age of the engine if proven.

In my experience the test is carried out using the limits applicable at the time of the manufacture of the Engine. So if you know the age of the engine, and can prove it, those are the limits that apply. A CAT is only required if you can not achieve the standard the engine age requires If you cant prove the age then current standards apply. I would agree with Longboarder, as always, much of the test is down to interpretation. Some test machines do have vehicle data, but I have never seen it used at IVA, they just input the age of engine. of course the age or proof of age could be incorrectly input, but assuming they select the correct age the machine then tells the operator the steps it requires. The final print records pass or fail for each of the test elements. not much room for interpretation, although input aside there are ways to "influence" the test outcome.